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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
- Start date
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- club
Recently acquired a Samick MusicMan style bass that I will be refinishing. Originally wanted to go with Krylon Gloss Celery, but that color is not to be found locally. I decided to go with Krylon Satin Pistachio, which is just a shade lighter. Not sure what I am getting into with using a satin paint. Every other bass I have owned has had a gloss finish. Can anybody tell me what I should expect from a satin finish as far as being able to keep it clean and the durability of satin? Not looking for perfection out of the finished product, but since it is such a light color, I don't want it to have a permanent grimy layer of funk that I am unable to clean.
Will post before and after pics over the next few weeks.
Will post before and after pics over the next few weeks.
Already bought a can of Krylon Clear, but I have read in this thread that the Krylon clears are not compatible with their paints. I see that some recommend PolyCrylic clear be used over Krylon, but am not 100% sure I don't want a satin finish. Just want to make sure that it won't get nasty. I don't play anywhere but at prayer meetings and church, and almost always have showered just before playing. Quite sure that it won't be my main player...
Holy cow, forgot about this thread but do I have a couple of doozies for ya!
I'm not 100% sure these count since there was much more than rattle can that went into it, but most of the paint AND the clear for both of these came out of rattle cans bought at the local home improvement place.
This one was a collaboration with a local guru, inspired by "Double Trouble Two", the WWII era P-51 Mustang, which is still flying here locally.
This one was a "7 years in process" piece, currently for sale:
I'm not 100% sure these count since there was much more than rattle can that went into it, but most of the paint AND the clear for both of these came out of rattle cans bought at the local home improvement place.
This one was a collaboration with a local guru, inspired by "Double Trouble Two", the WWII era P-51 Mustang, which is still flying here locally.
This one was a "7 years in process" piece, currently for sale:
'
Not really - I prefer the spray heads that spray in a line pattern, as opposed to a cone. Also, make SURE your paint is compatible with whatever you plan on using for clear - some finishes react poorly with others.
Holy cow, forgot about this thread but do I have a couple of doozies for ya!
I'm not 100% sure these count since there was much more than rattle can that went into it, but most of the paint AND the clear for both of these came out of rattle cans bought at the local home improvement place.
This one was a collaboration with a local guru, inspired by "Double Trouble Two", the WWII era P-51 Mustang, which is still flying here locally.
This one was a "7 years in process" piece, currently for sale:
These need to go into the "Best Bass For Metal Thread"
This video explains the basics
I like using Duplicolor "Perfect Match" spray paints for color and Minwax lacquer for clear.
so back in 2006 i bought a sunburst SX bass. i never loved the color but back then my main band had me playing guitar so my bass was just used for recording. at the end of 2010 i finally got in another band where i could play bass again and for almost 2 years this SX was my main bass. i ended up putting together 2 warmoths after that and now i use them as my main basses, but i still wanted a cheap beater bass i could take to out of town gigs where i wouldn't be too upset if it were to get stolen or something. after doing a couple cosmetic things to the bass over the last couple years, i finally decided to strip the paint and redo it. this was my first time ever doing it and since it's not my main bass i didn't really care how professional it turned out. i didn't strip all of the old finish off and i didn't let it cure for more than a few days before putting it back together. i tried wet sanding the back and it didn't go so well, so i decided to leave the front alone. there's spots where there are paint drips but from far away you can't see it. i thought it was going to come out darker as well but i think i'm happy with the color.
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while i was at it i put in CTS pots with an orange drop cap and a switchcraft jack. and new Dimarzio Area P pickups
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while i was at it i put in CTS pots with an orange drop cap and a switchcraft jack. and new Dimarzio Area P pickups
thanks! i actually bought a can of the krylon ivy but then i also got a can of another brand that was a little darker than the krylon, or so i thought. the cap and label were wrong, it ended up looking just like the krylon ivy. i used a krylon clear coat though
i feel like it isn't too bad for a first attempt. 
Just finished this one. Squier P body (originally black) refinished in Reranch Daphne Blue. The white PG was scratched and discolored, so I lightly sanded it with 600, then shot a few coats of black Krylon Fusion. The whole thing came out pretty well.
Lots of impressive work here, but I prefer to have the grain show through if at all possible. Does anyone market a rattle can stain (not paint) that is translucent, or am I limited to wipe on stain for visible grain?
ReRanch has a couple and StewMac does too.
You can also use the Preval Spray System. I'm planning to use it with stain on a future build.
Arts, Crafts & Hobbies: Custom Designs | Preval
Preval 267 Spray Gun - Auto Body Spray Guns - Amazon.com
You can also use the Preval Spray System. I'm planning to use it with stain on a future build.
Arts, Crafts & Hobbies: Custom Designs | Preval
Preval 267 Spray Gun - Auto Body Spray Guns - Amazon.com
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
What grit do you use on BIN shellac primer before spraying nitro? I'm about to do a Jazz bass in Dupli Color Pewter Metallic. Thanks.
I usually lightly smooth it out with 320. Make sure the primer is evenly sprayed with no "waves" showing. I've found that those will show through once color and clear are done, so try to get the primer coats as close to solid white as you can.
