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Rattle Can Refinish Club

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Night time, bad iPad shot. Re Ranch Shell Pink w/ matching HS.
 
Spraybomb experts:

If I paint over the original poly finish on a bass with spraypaint, will it wear through to reveal the undercolour like a fancy relic bass?

If yes, will it wear through faster than nitro or another form of paint? I'm simply into the idea of a rad, roadworn, bass but I'm strictly a bedroom rock god and thus it will never get the sort of wear that an actual musician would put it through (and I'm highly adverse to faking it with sandpaper).

If yes, would it behoove me to hit the guitar with a clearcoat AFTER the spraypaint if only to protect against casual flaking and damage (because as a bedroom rock god, I still manage to bump enough crap in my day-to-day life to bypass roadworn relicy mojosity into straight up "dismal mess" status in a few months).

In other words, can I get a really sweet Joe Strummer effect with simply spraypaint and casual use?
 
Spraybomb experts:

If I paint over the original poly finish on a bass with spraypaint, will it wear through to reveal the undercolour like a fancy relic bass?

If yes, will it wear through faster than nitro or another form of paint? I'm simply into the idea of a rad, roadworn, bass but I'm strictly a bedroom rock god and thus it will never get the sort of wear that an actual musician would put it through (and I'm highly adverse to faking it with sandpaper).

If yes, would it behoove me to hit the guitar with a clearcoat AFTER the spraypaint if only to protect against casual flaking and damage (because as a bedroom rock god, I still manage to bump enough crap in my day-to-day life to bypass roadworn relicy mojosity into straight up "dismal mess" status in a few months).

In other words, can I get a really sweet Joe Strummer effect with simply spraypaint and casual use?

If you didn't want to use nitro due to the expense, availability, etc., you could use store-bought spray paint and do just enough coats to cover the original finish, then do one can of clear. That would probably wear a bit faster than laying on multiple coats of color/clear, but it's still going to take awhile to look roadworn with bedroom use. If you go with store-bought, I've used Duplicolor auto spray cans with good results. Despite not having the vintage Fender colors, they make quite a few options that will look really good.
 
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Thanks for the info; I'm just going for basic black anyways, so colour matching isn't a concern. My real thought, besides cost and convienence, was that I figured nitro was a far more sturdy and longer-lasting answer than spraypaint, so by opting for the spraybomb it'd wear through quicker.

However, I do have one question regarding your post:
"do one can of clear"

I assume the word can here should be coat?
 
Thanks for the info; I'm just going for basic black anyways, so colour matching isn't a concern. My real thought, besides cost and convienence, was that I figured nitro was a far more sturdy and longer-lasting answer than spraypaint, so by opting for the spraybomb it'd wear through quicker.

However, I do have one question regarding your post:
"do one can of clear"

I assume the word can here should be coat?

Nitro will actually wear a bit quicker, but if you're just going for basic black, I'd go for the Duplicolor and spray just enough to cover the original color. You'll have to sand the original clear coat before you spray primer or color, and there's plenty of info on TB regarding how to do that. You can also check out the instructions at reranch.com.

Regarding the clear, I did mean one can. One coat of clear really won't protect it at all, and if you're planning on wet sanding to get it shiny, you'll need to use at least one whole can of clear. You'll sand through one coat immediately if that's all you spray. You could always use a clear lacquer instead of the Duplicolor clear. I've used the Minwax gloss lacquer in a spray can for my last few projects, and it yields great results.
 
I didn't expect that. Thanks, you've given me some stuff to think about as I move towards through my little project. No doubt there'll be more questions in the future, as I get closer, and continue to research my options and the requirements.
 
I would recommend against the Duplicolor clear. It never fully hardened on my bass and the finish began to crack after about a year. If the bass sits in one place too long it will create an indentation on the body, even after curing for a couple of years now. Maybe they have a better type of clear than what I used but I used the off the shelf stuff at Auto Zone. I did use their paint and that turned out great. They do offer quite a variety of color choices.
 
Sand it, clean it, shoot a couple coats of primer to make sure it's all good. If needed do a little more sanding, if no more sanding is needed then start shooting your color coat. Then go to your clear. After you get as many as you think you need lightly wet sand up to 2000 or 2500 grit. Buff out, use a swirl remover, assemble, play as often as needed.
 
Here are a few Pics of my Yamaha bb205 redo. I had this one sold locally on CL until the buyer tried to pass me a counterfeit $50. So I decided to keep it. It had a ding or 2 whick i filled using super glue. I sanded it down to the wood (alder I think) and sprayed on Dupli-Color Auto Primer/Sealer. The color was Dupli-Color Light Blue metallic. Finished with MinWax poly wipe on... I was shooting for a close match to Gibsons 'Pelham Blue' and this is pretty close. I added Bartolini pickups (purchased on TB) and new electronics. It sounds MUCH better than the original Yamahas. Pictures are horrible - sorry.

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