Rattle Can Refinish Club

[kkaarrll]

Well...you asked.

All ReRanch Nitro,except the Sun Yellow P Bass.That is Krylon.

Every single one is a rattle can job.The clearcoats were done using McFaddens Nitro Clear through Preval cans.
Cheers.

I like the Geezers so much in my Frankin P-Bass that I picked another set for my old Ibanez Roadster fretless!
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I am looking at doing something similar to your krylon yellow, ideas?help? It will be a unfinished warmoth body.

 

[Instagator]

Sent a PM..Sun Yellow is a killer.
Gator.

 

[Instagator]

Cheers.

 

[Muddslide]

I like your bass. It reminds me of my rattle can gem which I recently updated with a pearl pickguard.


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I...I miss the tort...

 

[mojomike001]

I...I miss the tort...

I still have the tort. It's just resting.

 

[GKon]

Question for the paint gurus

I'm about ready to start painting the body blank I'm working on (it's raw wood).

I plan on spraying with sanding sealer, primer, paint and clear.

However, I have to fill some very minor dings and screw holes. I've read about using bondo rather than
wood filler. Any pro's con's for either or?

Also, and more importantly for me to know, do I apply the bond/filler first, then the sanding sealer? Or do
I apply it after the sanding sealer?

Thanks!

 

[friskinator]

Question for the paint gurus

I'm about ready to start painting the body blank I'm working on (it's raw wood).

I plan on spraying with sanding sealer, primer, paint and clear.

However, I have to fill some very minor dings and screw holes. I've read about using bondo rather than
wood filler. Any pro's con's for either or?

Also, and more importantly for me to know, do I apply the bond/filler first, then the sanding sealer? Or do
I apply it after the sanding sealer?

Thanks!

I like the Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty over the standard Bondo. It comes in a 4.5 oz tube, and it doesn't require mixing. Much easier, and no waste. I'm not sure about the order, though.

 

[GKon]

I like the Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty over the standard Bondo. It comes in a 4.5 oz tube, and it doesn't require mixing. Much easier, and no waste. I'm not sure about the order, though.

Thanks!

 

[fjadams]

For bigger fill jobs I use Minwax High Performance Wood Filler. It's the 2 part wood filler. Similar to the Bondo 2 part filler, maybe the same.
For little dings, screw holes, etc I use Elmer's Probond Professional Wood Filler.
Also have a tube of the Minwax Stainable Wood Filler, but I don't really like it. Just doesn't seem to work as well as the Elmer's.

After I have everything filled and sanded smooth then I shoot the sealer, primer, base coat, clear coat.

 

[GKon]

For bigger fill jobs I use Minwax High Performance Wood Filler. It's the 2 part wood filler. Similar to the Bondo 2 part filler, maybe the same.
For little dings, screw holes, etc I use Elmer's Probond Professional Wood Filler.
Also have a tube of the Minwax Stainable Wood Filler, but I don't really like it. Just doesn't seem to work as well as the Elmer's.

After I have everything filled and sanded smooth then I shoot the sealer, primer, base coat, clear coat.

Thank you!

 

[GKon]

I have some questions for anyone that might know.

I'm building a bass from a kit that has an f-hole cut through the body and through the headstock.

When I spray the sealer, primer, paint and clear, I'm wondering if I should mask off the body and headstock
and do all the spraying to the inside of the f-holes first, then, after those dry, do all the spraying to the body and
the headstock. What say you?

Also, I want to eventually have the bass pinstriped. I'm pretty sure that they'll stripe over the clear?
Should I have them strip right on the paint, then spray the clear over it???

 

[fjadams]

What kit is this? Not sure I ever saw one like you described.

I haven't done this on the F holes I've painted. Just painted the F holes as part of the regular process.

I'd have the striping done over the base coat, then clear coat the whole thing. Just make sure the base, striping paint and clearcoat are all compatible.

 

[GKon]

What kit is this? Not sure I ever saw one like you described.

I haven't done this on the F holes I've painted. Just painted the F holes as part of the regular process.

I'd have the striping done over the base coat, then clear coat the whole thing. Just make sure the base, striping paint and clearcoat are all compatible.

It's actually a P-bass kit that I'm re-doing to be my take on an Ampeg scroll bass.

From this:

I've made this:

and this:

Regarding paint compatibility, I'm a bit at a loss. I have a can of Krylon Flat Black I want to use as my main paint. I can easily find
primer that is compatible. They main hitch is the clear (not sure yet if I'm going with matte or semi-gloss. Likely matte).
One of the member on this thread (don't remember who offhand) insists to not use Krylon clear coats with Krylon paint as they are not
compatible. That seems very odd to me. Puts me at a loss as to what to ultimately use. (Unless, of course, I misunderstood/read it wrong).
There are 30+ pages on this thread and I'm not in a position to read through all of them again at the moment.

 

[fjadams]

That looks pretty cool.

I know there have been lots of posts about Krylon. I've never used it after reading the posts on here.

Maybe give a look here. I haven't tried this but it looks like the results are pretty good.
Google

I'm doing one of my next ones with this:
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Then finishing it with Tru-Oil.

 

[DerekW]

I painted a headstock with black krylon fusion and used the gloss krylon low odor clear gloss over top with no issues.
Don't see whey you couldn't use the flat clear over.

Then again, if it's flat krylon, do you even need a clear over?

I'd be tempted to just use half a dozen coats of flat black.

 

[GKon]

I painted a headstock with black krylon fusion and used the gloss krylon low odor clear gloss over top with no issues.
Don't see whey you couldn't use the flat clear over.

Then again, if it's flat krylon, do you even need a clear over?

I'd be tempted to just use half a dozen coats of flat black.

I'd like to clear simply as protection from the paint chipping too easily.

I also would think that krylon paint and krylon clear should be compatible. Seems like it worked just fine for you.

 

[DerekW]

I'd like to clear simply as protection from the paint chipping too easily.

I also would think that krylon paint and krylon clear should be compatible. Seems like it worked just fine for you.

Yeah, so far so good! Just a headstock mind you, but I did follow the instructions as fire as timing between coats, etc.
and gave it a good week and a half before I started applying the clear.

 

[DerekW]

Also, shake the cans for a good 2-3 minutes.

 

[fjadams]

Also run hot water from the tap over the cans before you start painting. Painting with warm cans makes for a better finish.

 

[GKon]

Thanks, folks. I am aware of warming the cans, and shaking for a couple of minutes.
I appreciate it!