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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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Me too. That bass inspired my next project. Still looks great though!I...I miss the tort...
Without going through all 41 pages...
If I wanted to repaint a squier bass, using a Krylon Fusion or similar store bought paint, would a primer be needed? Or just a light sanding?
If I wanted to repaint a squier bass, using a Krylon Fusion or similar store bought paint, would a primer be needed? Or just a light sanding?
Hi everyone.
I bought this primer, paint and clear today. It was the only stuff I found at Home Depot,
and I decided to NOT use the Krylon flat black I had:
This is the only Spray sanding sealer I found. Is this the right stuff? It says it's for lacquer.
I have no idea if that means it will work with these or not, and no one at HD could help.
Do I even need sanding sealer? Can't I just primer the wood?
I bought this primer, paint and clear today. It was the only stuff I found at Home Depot,
and I decided to NOT use the Krylon flat black I had:
This is the only Spray sanding sealer I found. Is this the right stuff? It says it's for lacquer.
I have no idea if that means it will work with these or not, and no one at HD could help.
Do I even need sanding sealer? Can't I just primer the wood?
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Krylon Fusion is formulated to spray on plastic, so that's probably not the best choice. If you're looking for store bought paint, I've had good results with Duplicolor auto paint. You can find it in most auto parts stores, and they also offer quite a few metallics that look good if you're going for that vibe.
I want to use jet black duplicolor gloss on a bass project. I've read that the duplicolor clear coat takes too long to dry, and doesn't get hard enough to buff out well. Any good alternative laquer clear coats compatible with Duplicolor? Delft clear maybe?
I've used Minwax gloss lacquer in the black spray can with good results, but I've also heard Behlen stringed instrument lacquer is good. I know a lot of TB users like Deft as well. Minwax can be found at most big-box home improvement stores, so that's why I usually go with it.
If you're looking for a flat black, consider John Deere Blitz Black. It's very popular with hot rodders for that rat rod look.
I've never used the Rust-Oleum paint but don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.
Just make sure you've prepped the body first and it should all be good.
Get a Tacky Cloth to clean up with after sanding. They're cheap and indispensable to getting the little particles of dust off before painting. I go over everything I paint with one right before spraying.
Just make sure you've prepped the body first and it should all be good.
Get a Tacky Cloth to clean up with after sanding. They're cheap and indispensable to getting the little particles of dust off before painting. I go over everything I paint with one right before spraying.
Thanks.
My main question is would the Minwax Lacquer Sanding Sealer work with the Rust Oleum paints.
I've since decided to forgo the sanding sealer and just primer.
Typically, you don't want to put anything but lacquer over lacquer. However, lacquer can be applied over poly with no problems as long as you don't try to spray more poly over it. If you're going to use a sanding sealer, find one that isn't lacquer-based. Are you spraying a body that's been sanded down to raw wood? If so, you might want to reconsider the sanding sealer.
MOST of the body already has sanding sealer on it. I've modified it a bit, so there are areas that are bare wood.
Hello everyone, glad I stumbled on this club. I was looking for paint procedures in the search function when I stumbled across this club. I am in the middle of repainting a Epi Goth Thunderbird. Currently she is primered(last night) with Rust-oleum grey primer. planing on a sanding this evening then later she will get Lake Placid Blue Metalic from a local auto paint store.
What are you requirements for membership? I would supply pictures but they are all on my phone and I am now on the main computer, I can supply them later if you like...
What are you requirements for membership? I would supply pictures but they are all on my phone and I am now on the main computer, I can supply them later if you like...
This one turned out pretty good. Its a Sting Bass.
Very nice!
What happened to the pickguard screw holes in the second picture? I assume you filled them in first before painting and then redrilled them.
What happened to the pickguard screw holes in the second picture? I assume you filled them in first before painting and then redrilled them.
Yes I filled them in as well as plugged the wiring route hole that is normally found on these CIJ's. Later I decided to put the white pickguard on it.
I'm taking the plunge and I'm going for a Gecko Medium 5 build! I picked up a body from TBs very own Comatosedragon and am going to strip it down and finish it.
I have scoured the internet and have not come up with a straight answer yet on one item. According to dragon "I used an oil based grain filler, and dyed it with guitar re-ranch orange" to get the look below. This was painted over but I'm not concerned at all about getting the paint off (second photo). I'm wondering if there is any way to get this back down to the bare wood? If you know how please explain it to me like I'm a complete novice and walk me through the steps (even if it means sanding).
The color I'm hoping to achieve (assuming bare wood is possible) is the brown in the third photo, is that possible if the dye can't come out? So excited to get started!!!
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I have scoured the internet and have not come up with a straight answer yet on one item. According to dragon "I used an oil based grain filler, and dyed it with guitar re-ranch orange" to get the look below. This was painted over but I'm not concerned at all about getting the paint off (second photo). I'm wondering if there is any way to get this back down to the bare wood? If you know how please explain it to me like I'm a complete novice and walk me through the steps (even if it means sanding).
The color I'm hoping to achieve (assuming bare wood is possible) is the brown in the third photo, is that possible if the dye can't come out? So excited to get started!!!
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My thoughts, and i'm no proffesional, are that what you want to do IS achievable. Sanding will probably have to happen but mot as much as you may think. As far as removing the green paint I have succesfully used a cheapo hot air gun lile you would buy at home depot/lowes/menards. They cost about twenty bucks. That is assuming you dont already own ine.
I did that with an Epi Goth and it worked perfectly!
Cant wait to see what you do with yours.
I did that with an Epi Goth and it worked perfectly!
Cant wait to see what you do with yours.
