Rattle Can Refinish Club

[Eilif]

There's some great jobs on here. I've done 3 instruments with spray cans, all with hammertone textured paint. I like the stuff alot, and it's dead easy to use, but obviously not for a "classic" look. It's great for covering over imperfections and when you're bashing together basses from random parts and not expecting much resale value it's a fast and cheap method with a nice DIY look.
No pics, but the instruments were:
-90's (MIJ or MIK) Dean Electric. Someone had changed the trem very poorly and it couldn't be intonated properly. Filled the trem and spring cavities with Bondo installed a hardtail and gave it a nice silver hammertone finish with matching headstock. Since the parts were free it qualified for an under-$50 family gift exchange. It was the gift that everyone wanted. I think my uncle still has it.
-Peavey Foundation S active. Had weird grooves in the finish, trashed electronics and no bridge. Some bondo, cheapo parts and a blue hammertone spray job. $50 in parts and I sold it for $80.
-Frankenbass from reshaped (not by me) first gen Peavey Fury body and Arbor neck. Black hammertone. $60 in parts and sold for $115 to a local kid who thought it looked "punk".

 

[fjadams]

bump?

I've used Dupli-Color clear over their solid metallic color on two basses and they both had no problems.
Are you thinking of Rustoleum? I think some people have had problems with them.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I read that Duplicolor doesn't dry hard enough to buff out well, some people say Delft clear is better.

 

[StereoPlayer]

Probably 15-20 coats of satin clear lacquer. Can't remember the name, but bought "good" stuff.
The neck has the original Fender finish...'71 P.
The body is a '82 Schector Satin Walnut, p/j, modded.

 

[GKon]

Hi Everybody,

I'd like to ask some questions. I've skimmed through all 39 pages, but didn't see the info I'm after. I may
have missed it, so excuse me if I'm being redundant.

I'm currently building a P-bass kit that I'm modifying. Once it's done, I plan on spraying it with flat black out of a spray can.
The body is bare wood that was already sealed and ready for paint.
However, I've cut off the horns and reshaped the body, so they no longer have sealer on them.
My questions are:

1) What type of sealer do I need to use on the newly exposed wood?
2) Should I sand down all the old sealer and respray the whole body with new sealer?
Or
Can I spray the new sealer on the already sealed body and on the newly exposed wood?

Once it's sealed, I plan on primering and then painting.

Thanks! Looking forward to joining the club

 

[Kirk Bryant]

Someone will be along with with answers soon Gkon. In the meantime here's a better pic of my Shell Pink P from a page back with the new neck it's getting, as yet un painted. I'll do the headstock and a vintage tint.

 

[GKon]

Someone will be along with with answers soon Gkon. In the meantime here's a better pic of my Shell Pink P from a page back with the new neck it's getting, as yet un painted. I'll do the headstock and a vintage tint.

View attachment 699604

Thanks.
Looks great!

When you paint the headstock will you just do the face of it or the back, too?

 

[Kirk Bryant]

Just the face of it per Fender SOP's the rest of the neck will get the RR vintage tint. So it doesn't look so new and clear.

 

[fjadams]

Hi Everybody,

I'd like to ask some questions. I've skimmed through all 39 pages, but didn't see the info I'm after. I may
have missed it, so excuse me if I'm being redundant.

I'm currently building a P-bass kit that I'm modifying. Once it's done, I plan on spraying it with flat black out of a spray can.
The body is bare wood that was already sealed and ready for paint.
However, I've cut off the horns and reshaped the body, so they no longer have sealer on them.
My questions are:

1) What type of sealer do I need to use on the newly exposed wood?
2) Should I sand down all the old sealer and respray the whole body with new sealer?
Or
Can I spray the new sealer on the already sealed body and on the newly exposed wood?

Once it's sealed, I plan on primering and then painting.

Thanks! Looking forward to joining the club

When I sand down to wood I reseal. You shouldn't have to sand off the old sealer. I just lightly sand it with some 200 to 240 sandpaper then spray seal the whole thing. Then prime, basecoat, clearcoat, buff.

 

[GKon]

When I sand down to wood I reseal. You shouldn't have to sand off the old sealer. I just lightly sand it with some 200 to 240 sandpaper then spray seal the whole thing. Then prime, basecoat, clearcoat, buff.

Is there a specific sealer you recommend?

My paint is krylon matte black. I likely won't spray a matte clear over it but honestly haven't decided yet.
Using matte paint I won't ve buffing.

Regarding primer, is there black primer out there?

Thanks for the help.

 

[fjadams]

Is there a specific sealer you recommend?

My paint is krylon matte black. I likely won't spray a matte clear over it but honestly haven't decided yet.
Using matte paint I won't ve buffing.

Regarding primer, is there black primer out there?

Thanks for the help.

I usually shoot nitro so I use the one from ReRanch. I'm sure most any of the paint stores would have something that would work.
For the primer it doesn't really matter with flat black going over it. Car parts store usually have primers in white & gray, sometimes black or red/rust.
Do you have an Ace Hardware near you? I've found that their house brand of enamel works better than the Krylon. Not sure about there being the color you want though.

 

[GKon]

I usually shoot nitro so I use the one from ReRanch. I'm sure most any of the paint stores would have something that would work.
For the primer it doesn't really matter with flat black going over it. Car parts store usually have primers in white & gray, sometimes black or red/rust.
Do you have an Ace Hardware near you? I've found that their house brand of enamel works better than the Krylon. Not sure about there being the color you want though.

I was planning on going to home depot. I'm using krylon matte because I happen to have a can but can pick something else up if it's better.
I'll see what hd has for sealer,primer and paint.
Is the sealer a spray?

 

[GKon]

Every wood sealer I see on hd and ace hardware site seems to be for waterproofing. I'm guessing that's not what I need.

I did find this at a local TrueValue. About $7 a can. Will this do the trick? (EDIT: NOT local. It shows on their site, but they don't have it and can't order it).

 

[fjadams]

That should do the trick.

I checked and read the reviews. It sounds like it's a real good product. I'll have to remember this one as I haven't used it yet.

 

[GKon]

I also found this at Stew Mac.
Clear sanding sealer. Also gloss clear and matte clear. I'd use the matte.
Invalid Link Removed

 

[Glazenn]

Fender American Vintage Jazz Bass Reissue '62 (Alder body, year 2005) refinished in Ice Blue Metallic.
It was 3 tone sunburst before.
Sanded to wood + damages and holes filled + hardener + white primer.
Finish: 1 can of Acryl MOTIP 54775 + 1 can of MOTIP Clear Varnish (Made in Germany car paint).
Fender CS '60s pickups upgrade.
>>>>>>>>>>> Club number please <<<<<<<<<<<

 

[mojomike001]

Someone will be along with with answers soon Gkon. In the meantime here's a better pic of my Shell Pink P from a page back with the new neck it's getting, as yet un painted. I'll do the headstock and a vintage tint.

View attachment 699604

I like your bass. It reminds me of my rattle can gem which I recently updated with a pearl pickguard.

 

[Kirk Bryant]

Thanks mojo they'll look like cousins when I get the neck done and on. Yours looks great.

 

[angst178]

Really loving this thread. I need to add my rattler though. It started life as a Dean Metalman V. I had it for years. I think I go it the first year it was offered for sale as a back up bass. It played well, but was never a bass I wanted to play on stage because the pickup was... not that good. At home on the little amp it was fine, but it didn't agree with the Ampeg. I always wanted an Epiphone V until I played one. Sounded good, but the short scale wasn't for me. I also had just sold my Lotus P bass and I missed the tone.
So best of both worlds... I ordered a pickguard with only screw holes and routed the pickup hole. Backwards. Oh well. Still sounds good. and it does take the brittleness out of the highs. So a win I guess.
I used appliance epoxy because that seemed more durable. I also liked the idea of a glossy but not super shiny finish. I looks like an older bass that has been taken care of, but used a lot.

 

[GKon]

Really loving this thread. I need to add my rattler though. It started life as a Dean Metalman V. I had it for years. I think I go it the first year it was offered for sale as a back up bass. It played well, but was never a bass I wanted to play on stage because the pickup was... not that good. At home on the little amp it was fine, but it didn't agree with the Ampeg. I always wanted an Epiphone V until I played one. Sounded good, but the short scale wasn't for me. I also had just sold my Lotus P bass and I missed the tone.
So best of both worlds... I ordered a pickguard with only screw holes and routed the pickup hole. Backwards. Oh well. Still sounds good. and it does take the brittleness out of the highs. So a win I guess.
I used appliance epoxy because that seemed more durable. I also liked the idea of a glossy but not super shiny finish. I looks like an older bass that has been taken care of, but used a lot.
View attachment 700895 View attachment 700896

Looks great!