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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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Too humid in my case, I’m waiting for some nice dry September air!
- Jun 30, 2010
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Depends on the size of the flakes. I spray a 'sparkle' (fine glitter flakes) and clear-coat with lacquer. Or are you saying you can't use lacquer (as a coating choice) where you are spraying?
I've had a lot of success with Varathane Ultimate water-based, in both the rattle can and non-rattle can forms. For non-rattle can I use an inexpensive HVLP sprayer. I've been able to get a nice gloss etc.
I'm using the Krylon glitter pray found in craft stores. It gives me a perfect flake just as I like, but in testing I tried putting lacquer over it and the sparkle went away, looked like it shriveled. Not sure what happened, but maybe the flakes shriveld up?
I tried the Krylon sealer on it just for grins, and it works, but I doubt the longevity of it as I don't know what the fark it is.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
To really get the flakes to activate w/light, they need to be buried in the clear-coat which is leveled and buffed to a high gloss.
Yeah, I'm using the Ultimate Varathane with a turbine type HVLP gun I got off of Amazon (it's probably similar to the HF). It flows out pretty nicely. I set it to lay down a pretty wet coat. That's what I used on my Winter Build Off basses.
Thanks for that, and it's my understanding. I'm trying to figure out what to bury it in. Lacquer was my first choice, but it killed the Krylon glitter paint. but, I wonder if the sealer can act as a buffer between the flakes and the lacquer? just not sure about these consumer products. I have a good sander. actually more than one.
Off topic, I went out today and a guy looked at my shoes and asked if my wife was wearing glitter. That stuff gets everywhere!
The water-based poly sounds like a good choice, i think i'll try it.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
To clarify - I use the same Krylon Glitter-Blast spray and clear-coat it with satin StewMac lacquer and it does not "kill" the glitter. (whatever that exactly means) There's a chance that either you didn't let the GB cure long enough, or you sprayed too thick of a coating of lacquer over it. When spraying the GB - once you are done spraying - loose/excess flakes need to be dusted off using a soft fine bristle brush as not all of the flakes adhere. If it removes too much (looks blotchy), it needs to be lightly sprayed again, dusted and reviewed. The clear vehicle in that spray isn't thick and really shouldn't be over-sprayed because you'll overload the flakes and lose the glitter effect.
This is Krylon Golden Glow Glitter Blast over a spray-enamel creme white base coat clear-coated with SM satin clear lacquer - no dead flakes here.
It looked like the glitter flakes warped and "curdled." Definitely not the same as when the GB was first applied. I had two sections of test board and the one with Lac looked more like a metallic than a flake. I assumed the lac solvent melted the flakes.
If it's wrong, there's a good chance i did it.
This is Krylon Golden Glow Glitter Blast over a spray-enamel creme white base coat clear-coated with SM satin clear lacquer - no dead flakes here.
That looks awesome. however, it's not what i have - mine looks just like a full metalflake, very much like the G&L flaked basses I've seen.
Thanks.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Ok - judging from your example pic - it looks like you did a very thick coating of the GB. Because of that, and not dusting off loose flakes (I'm guessing) and then applying too thick of a coat of clear lacquer - it developed issues. I have yet to go that heavy with the GB, but if I did I would spray a few very light coats of clear (lacquer), dusting after the first couple to remove all loose flakes. What probably happened was that you flooded the spaces between flakes (think micro) with lacquer and the flakes were then sitting in that wet pool of paint which 'cooked' them. With multiple light coats, the spaces between flakes would gradually fill in and seal them. Once the surface is evenly sealed - the ensuing buildup would be on top of a thin lacquer base and not the flakes.
I have yet to be able to get the Krylon GB paint cans to spray. I've tried three....no good on any of them. I have had success with the Testors smaller cans of their glitter paints. I havent tried to clear coat any of my test pieces yet though.
BnB
BnB
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- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I've used it a bunch with success. An off-the-shelf rattle-can glitter spray is not going to be the perfect vehicle for spraying flake but if you do a few simple things it will work.
1) shake well for a while - there is chunky material mixed with vehicle that needs to blend thoroughly
2) spray light dusting coats - start minimally and build it to desired level with time and dusting off excess flakes between coats
3) physically dusting off loose flakes between coats - it sets quickly so this can be done in a short time-frame
4) when done with each pass - briefly spray the can upside-down after to clear the nozzle and wipe off excess material to clear the hole.
I've used cans that were 1/2 used months later and it still works. If the cans have been in the hardware store for a long time, there's a chance for issues, but if this happens it should just be returned and pointed out to the store. I can't recall this happening to me with that product, but it has happened with other rattle-can sprays.
What a tremendous thread. There is some really great work in here. Nice job, everyone.
I want to refinish my P bass. I have a parts bass, and the body is a Squier Affinity in dark blue. I want to go lighter, closer to LPB. I too have looked at teh Krylon GB paint.
My question is this...I like the road worn look. I'm not confident I could pull that off and make it look not stupid, so I want the paint to wear away sooner rather than later. Should I skip a clear coat entirely? Go thin on the top coat? If I use the Krylon GB and don't clear coat it will it flake away easily?
I want to refinish my P bass. I have a parts bass, and the body is a Squier Affinity in dark blue. I want to go lighter, closer to LPB. I too have looked at teh Krylon GB paint.
My question is this...I like the road worn look. I'm not confident I could pull that off and make it look not stupid, so I want the paint to wear away sooner rather than later. Should I skip a clear coat entirely? Go thin on the top coat? If I use the Krylon GB and don't clear coat it will it flake away easily?
Use Reranch Nitro with a thin clearcoat, that stuff self-destructs into Roadworn PDQ. Do it the old fashioned way, play the Be-Jeebus out of it.Invalid Link Removed
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I have discovered that Glitter Blast exists in several forms; the smaller cans from Michael's, larger standard cans from Lowes, and at Home Depot, they have essentially the same product in larger cans by RustOLeum.
I had no trouble with the small cans, I shook the hell out of them.
Fair bit of trouble with the GB from Lowes, might not have shaken it enough but did eventually get it working.
RustOLeum from HD was fine.
I was using about medium amount coats, but yeah I'm building it up to full coverage. When one gets it into the sun without a topcoat, the sparkle is mind blowing.
As I continue testing and learning how to apply this shite, I'm trying out lighter coats. But I don't think I'll try lacquer again. I love lacquer, but considering my probs, spray poly might be a better, more "inert" topcoat.
You comments regarding the reason for the lacquer not working seem reasonable.
