Thanks! I think it may be that the guitar I wanted to style this after was potentially older and had yellowed a little.
Oh well, I guess it's one those things you learn as you go
Must just be my untrained eye then, I suppose
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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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Thanks! I think it may be that the guitar I wanted to style this after was potentially older and had yellowed a little.
Oh well, I guess it's one those things you learn as you go
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,058
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,058
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
When a coating is brushed on and looks like that it's considered 'ropy' - like little ropes/ridges. I'm assuming it's water based right? I'm a life-long painter/finisher and frankly with all my skill, I could barely do better than you did. It's the material is what I'm saying. When a coating sets/cures, it 'levels out', meaning any brushstrokes will blend together and flatten the surface. Brush-on thinner-based coatings have extended dry/set/cure times when this leveling happens. The water-born Varathane brush-on clear will not respond like that because it sets up too quickly. I can't get a reasonable size surface even before it starts setting, causing noticeable brush strokes of different sheens. They also tell you not to thin it. I never touch the stuff. I tried it once and somehow got a 1/2 way decent job but it was way more difficult than a thinner-based clear coat. Yes, it won't amber over time - but maybe someone here can offer some other water-based product that levels out better.
Now that it's on there, my only suggestion is to give it time to full cure (consult can for that) and try to level-sand it. The other thing about that product is that it is soft fully cured so even sanding can be problematic. Good luck.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,058
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I've not used this product but it looks good - hopefully other tb'rs will add their thoughts -
You can see how viscus the product it and how it flows-out - it should not create roping.
The hardness of it adds an extra level of patience and adherence to process (many grits in progression) but gives you full control of the smoothness achieved. This is well described in the vid.
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Thank you! It seems to have leveled out pretty nicely after some sanding. I'll probbly do some more coats, and sand it down some more before I hit it with the primer.
That stuff looks good! My friend has a Tele body he wants to refinish, and after seeing the grain we might go with a trans finish.
That stuff looks good! My friend has a Tele body he wants to refinish, and after seeing the grain we might go with a trans finish.
Attachments
I refinished my bass using Ohio Valley Nitro paints.
I've got all my clear coat layers done. I've heard that you should wait for around a month before polishing, but is there a reason not to put the bass back together and start playing in the meanwhile? I imagine it will just be easier to damage for the time being? Any advice?
I've got all my clear coat layers done. I've heard that you should wait for around a month before polishing, but is there a reason not to put the bass back together and start playing in the meanwhile? I imagine it will just be easier to damage for the time being? Any advice?
It's not dry. It's set. It will be easier to damage. Heat and friction can create fingerprints and wear marks.
Back to my projects, On a refin I'm doing, I used the Varathane water based spray poly, and didn't like it. It's, well, watery. The spray cap at times will blob finish onto the work, and even though I changed caps to the one sold by StewMac, it didn't seem to matter, still bloppy (what's the word I'm after here?). In the end I sprayed out a bunch of finish into a jar and brushed it on. Plus, it doesn't seem to be very hard. I think solvent based polys are better, in general.
As for putting it on the Sparkle Blast, I'm still working on that as a test. It goes on without damaging the sparkle, but is easy to overload and as I said, is runny. But looks good after dry.
As for putting it on the Sparkle Blast, I'm still working on that as a test. It goes on without damaging the sparkle, but is easy to overload and as I said, is runny. But looks good after dry.
Hello club, I'm in the process of stripping an Aria Pro II body and neck in order to refinish gloss black. I'm looking for suggestions on how to get there!
I have looked through this thread and others on TB, several YouTube vids, and other sites but still not sure how I want to proceed. I will also need to paint the headstock and neck to get back to looking original. I'm looking for close to a "factory finish". What would you all suggest? I'm a beginner, so I guess that should be taken into account. What do you think of the Poly 2k cans as an option? Someone suggested I start with a primer then go with a flat black lacquer followed by clear Poly 2k. The other option they suggested was a nitro.
Here is the bass I'm working on. It came to be already 90% stripped, but I guess the previous owner lost the will to continue. I could see evidence of heat gun use, sanding, and scraping (or gouging might be more accurate)! I decided to just hit it with an orbital sander which did a pretty quick job of removing the white primer. I will do a little more finer grit sanding to work on the edges a bit then do primer / wood sealer...Any suggestions for what to use, do, not do, are welcomed. Thanks!
I have looked through this thread and others on TB, several YouTube vids, and other sites but still not sure how I want to proceed. I will also need to paint the headstock and neck to get back to looking original. I'm looking for close to a "factory finish". What would you all suggest? I'm a beginner, so I guess that should be taken into account. What do you think of the Poly 2k cans as an option? Someone suggested I start with a primer then go with a flat black lacquer followed by clear Poly 2k. The other option they suggested was a nitro.
Here is the bass I'm working on. It came to be already 90% stripped, but I guess the previous owner lost the will to continue. I could see evidence of heat gun use, sanding, and scraping (or gouging might be more accurate)! I decided to just hit it with an orbital sander which did a pretty quick job of removing the white primer. I will do a little more finer grit sanding to work on the edges a bit then do primer / wood sealer...Any suggestions for what to use, do, not do, are welcomed. Thanks!
Once I figured out how to use regular spray can lacquer, I found it to be the easiest.
I have had mixed success due to failed cans with the Spraymax 2K. Most others really like it. Hopefully they have refined the two part can and formulation between A block and B block sufficiently for proper curing. When it does cure properly it is fast and hard. If you want easy and good, I would do primer, then Krylon Fusion black and clear. Do not use a matte or satin black. These either have chemical or pigment based matting agents in them, it's pointless. Use a standard black. Good luck with the project.
Looks great!Well, I put about 6 coats of green and something like 9 or 10 coats of clear. Here's the results!
Before:
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After:
I'm currently working on a telecaster project. I've thought of about twenty different color schemes but I think I'm finally settling in this one. I tested it in my "paint pig" body. Virtually no prep, as the body has been used for this purpose before.
Here is a shot... the color you see here is a metallic black, with kind of a grey cast, to my eye anyway.
But it also has a coat if Testors Holo-flake over it...
There's no clear coat on the body at this time. The finish is like glass. I don't know if I will actually do anything other than buff and wax it. I did two medium density coats of the base and a heavy, wet coat of the glitter (about half of a small can).
BnB
Here is a shot... the color you see here is a metallic black, with kind of a grey cast, to my eye anyway.
But it also has a coat if Testors Holo-flake over it...
There's no clear coat on the body at this time. The finish is like glass. I don't know if I will actually do anything other than buff and wax it. I did two medium density coats of the base and a heavy, wet coat of the glitter (about half of a small can).
BnB
