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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
- Start date
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- club
A little scuffing. However, I ended up painting over it and making it full-on black with just a hint or two of sloppiness to satisfy my desire for a relic
Can't go wrong with a black bass, and that refinish definitely takes it up a notch IMO. Nice work
A little scuffing. However, I ended up painting over it and making it full-on black with just a hint or two of sloppiness to satisfy my desire for a relic
Oh, you did? Pics?
- Jul 11, 2005
- 3,113
- 1,450
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- Gecko Leatherworks
I need some advice.
I'm getting back into playing after a 3 year break.
I'm putting together a bass. A parts caster you could say. I'm doing a P bass.
I was going to finish the body in nitro Shoreline Gold.
Nitrocellulose takes a long time to cure properly. I found a Rustoleum spray paint thats VERY close.
My questions is, what is a good clear oat?
I'm getting back into playing after a 3 year break.
I'm putting together a bass. A parts caster you could say. I'm doing a P bass.
I was going to finish the body in nitro Shoreline Gold.
Nitrocellulose takes a long time to cure properly. I found a Rustoleum spray paint thats VERY close.
My questions is, what is a good clear oat?
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,600
- 222,017
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
This is shunned by some but I've had very good luck with it - I have done the color finish in rattle-can enamel (Rustoleum or Krylon etc) and got that finish as smooth as I can with fine wet-sanding once cured. Then, I shoot a few thin coats of Stew-Mac satin clear, fine sanding to keep it smooth after the first two thin coats. One more thin coat and done - let cure for up to two weeks before assembly. With gloss it takes much more sanding and buffing. Satin lacquer looks and feels good and will naturally amber over time. I've yet to have an issue with shooting lacquer over enamel as long as the coats are thin.
Just remembered...
These are my 3 main players. I need to do a more recent pic since I replaced the Schaller bridge with a bent plate a couple weeks ago. But that's how the body turned out. Went corporate with it but the sloppiness is my way of getting over on the Man.
Nice one Jimmy, I like it very much.
In fact, I like all three.
I have a weakness for black Precisions even though I don't own one. {perhaps one day I will...}
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,600
- 222,017
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
So I'm confused... you went back to solid black over your relic'd finish?
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,600
- 222,017
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
- Jul 11, 2005
- 3,113
- 1,450
- Disclosures
- Gecko Leatherworks
Which is why I don't fill the grain. Pores must be free! 
I've got one of those $20 basses arriving on Monday.....Theoretically........
If it turns up, I'm gonna mess with it somewhat....
Just thought I'd pop in and have a quick look at what you guys are doing with rattle cans.....
Holy......
.....
Much to learn here methinks....
....If it turns up, I'm gonna mess with it somewhat....
Just thought I'd pop in and have a quick look at what you guys are doing with rattle cans.....
Holy......
.....Much to learn here methinks....
- Jul 11, 2005
- 3,113
- 1,450
- Disclosures
- Gecko Leatherworks
I'm building a bass "on the cheap".
I'm doing the finish myself(starting to regret it).
Has anyone come across this? See pictures.
This "bubbling" happened after I sprayed the first clear coat on the color.
I had this happen the first time. I actually called Rustoleum's support number to make sure these two products were compatible.
They assured me they should be fine together. I was told to wait 48 hours after spraying the last coat of color before spraying the clear coat.
Which I did. Then it happened again. Last thing I want is to deal with this on the body
I would appreciate any input
I'm doing the finish myself(starting to regret it).
Has anyone come across this? See pictures.
This "bubbling" happened after I sprayed the first clear coat on the color.
I had this happen the first time. I actually called Rustoleum's support number to make sure these two products were compatible.
They assured me they should be fine together. I was told to wait 48 hours after spraying the last coat of color before spraying the clear coat.
Which I did. Then it happened again. Last thing I want is to deal with this on the body
I would appreciate any input
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,600
- 222,017
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Judging by the way it looks - it appears that you over-sprayed material. The rule of thumb spraying is multiple light coats. By over-spraying, the paint is (too) thick and false-drys on the surface with curing material underneath. If the clear is also over-sprayed over that still curing finish - it will result in attacking the under-layer as seen. You'll have to remove all that finish and start again with multiple thin coats observing curing time for each as specified on the product.
Methinks your clear and color coats are violently incompatible chemically, regardless of what Rustoleum said. I tried getting through to them once about their water based clearcoat, which was supposedly impervious to water once cured. It wasnt! I tried wetsanding it, and it dissolved. Either that, or it's some kind of contamination like silicone. Did you ever have a silicone based polish on it? Silicone usually results in small "fish eyes" though, not big "waves" like that.
