Rattle Can Refinish Club

[bdplaid]

So is it ash? mahogany? alder doesn't really have noticeable pores... If you live in an area that has potent strippers, that seems like the only way you can remove residual paint from pores. Strip most of the paint off first, and then use a stiff plastic bristle scrub brush soaked in water to scrub paint from the pores. (using a water rinse stripper) After the wood is clean and dry - sand using a your sandpaper over a wood block to keep it flat when sanding.

It's paulownia, so consider it like ash. What you describe is about what I was planning to do - sand off most of the finish and then use a stripper to get any residual finish off that's down in the pores.

Thanks mucho for the advice.

 

[JIO]

It's paulownia, so consider it like ash. What you describe is about what I was planning to do - sand off most of the finish and then use a stripper to get any residual finish off that's down in the pores.

Thanks mucho for the advice.

good luck

 

[bdplaid]

good luck

Thanks. FWIW, this bass has had about 3 finishes on it. I can't seem to land on a color I like. The last time it had crappy rustoleum on it, which came off using just about anything. However, the finish on it now has poly on top of poly, I've never stripped that before so I'm expecting it put up a fight.

 

[deff]

It's paulownia, so consider it like ash. What you describe is about what I was planning to do - sand off most of the finish and then use a stripper to get any residual finish off that's down in the pores.

Thanks mucho for the advice.

I assume you have worked with or refinished a paulownia body before so you know how soft it is. If you don't, (Hint...It's really soft). My suggestion is to use a heat gun and be careful sanding. Under no circumstances use putty knife for scraping. It will gouge the wood. Even sanding you can start to take off wood faster than you realize.

 

[JIO]

Thanks. FWIW, this bass has had about 3 finishes on it. I can't seem to land on a color I like. The last time it had crappy rustoleum on it, which came off using just about anything. However, the finish on it now has poly on top of poly, I've never stripped that before so I'm expecting it put up a fight.

I doubt it will be any harder to remove. The poly-resins used on factory instruments are really hard to strip with strippers. A heat gun and flat-blade are the way to go on those finishes.

 

[bdplaid]

I assume you have worked with or refinished a paulownia body before so you know how soft it is. If you don't, (Hint...It's really soft). My suggestion is to use a heat gun and be careful sanding. Under no circumstances use putty knife for scraping. It will gouge the wood. Even sanding you can start to take off wood faster than you realize.

I've used paulownia for a lot of builds, and I know about its softness. But I've had alder that was softer, soo... Thanks for the heads-up.

I doubt it will be any harder to remove. The poly-resins used on factory instruments are really hard to strip with strippers. A heat gun and flat-blade are the way to go on those finishes.

This is not factory, but a parts build. As i said, I've refinned this bass a couple of times, but I don't use poly and thought I'd ask about removing that. Lacquer is my fave, but I was having a moment.

 

[JIO]

I've used paulownia for a lot of builds, and I know about its softness. But I've had alder that was softer, soo... Thanks for the heads-up.



This is not factory, but a parts build. As i said, I've refinned this bass a couple of times, but I don't use poly and thought I'd ask about removing that. Lacquer is my fave, but I was having a moment.

I was using a factory finish as an example of most difficult finish to remove with strippers.

 

[bdplaid]

I was using a factory finish as an example of most difficult finish to remove with strippers.

Thanks, yeah, I've heard about those. I've also heard stories about when they come off in big chunks. That would be awesome!

 

[Inara]

Here's mine ... An Ibanez SR375EF fretless
that is my main gigging bass and just had to be purple. I initially tried a vinyl skin, but butchered it badly, so switched to plan B. This is Krylon Candy Grape Shimmer Metallic, many many coats (it was designed as a shimmer, not a full coat product, but it worked out). I had the finish sanded down from recovering from the failed vinyl job, so decided to go for it. You can't tell in the photo, I don't think, but you can barely see where the logo is on the headstock. I'm going to use that to position a new decal once I get it.

I wasn't sure about this, how durable it would be, etc. Krylon says you can't clear coat over this, so I haven't tried to. It probably isn't the most durable, and will probably ding, but it's ok. It's been fine for the three months since I finished it, but of course it hasn't been getting gigged lately with all that's going on.

The overhead light is hitting the headstock and the body differently ... In real life they both look kind of in-between how they look in the picture here.

 

[murphy]

I have a candy apple red Warmoth Precision body that I want Charcoal Frost Metallic

I have seen a Nissan Rogue I believe to be the right color....Now is there a chance I could get a car body shop to paint it?
Or will the only way be rattle can ?

I never was completely satisfied with my rattle can finishes...and now live somewhere that is no longer an option.

I still have the wipe on poly etc I used last year on my Stingray....and could just do that again....But really want Charcoal Frost metallic...But do not want to pay $750 to get it!!

 

[murphy]

 

[JIO]

Here's mine ... An Ibanez SR375EF fretless
that is my main gigging bass and just had to be purple. I initially tried a vinyl skin, but butchered it badly, so switched to plan B. This is Krylon Candy Grape Shimmer Metallic, many many coats (it was designed as a shimmer, not a full coat product, but it worked out). I had the finish sanded down from recovering from the failed vinyl job, so decided to go for it. You can't tell in the photo, I don't think, but you can barely see where the logo is on the headstock. I'm going to use that to position a new decal once I get it.

I wasn't sure about this, how durable it would be, etc. Krylon says you can't clear coat over this, so I haven't tried to. It probably isn't the most durable, and will probably ding, but it's ok. It's been fine for the three months since I finished it, but of course it hasn't been getting gigged lately with all that's going on.

The overhead light is hitting the headstock and the body differently ... In real life they both look kind of in-between how they look in the picture here.
View attachment 3795533 View attachment 3795534

Looks good - what's a "shimmer"? Like a translucent glaze-coat?

 

[JIO]

I have a candy apple red Warmoth Precision body that I want Charcoal Frost Metallic

I have seen a Nissan Rogue I believe to be the right color....Now is there a chance I could get a car body shop to paint it?
Or will the only way be rattle can ?

I never was completely satisfied with my rattle can finishes...and now live somewhere that is no longer an option.

I still have the wipe on poly etc I used last year on my Stingray....and could just do that again....But really want Charcoal Frost metallic...But do not want to pay $750 to get it!!

I imagine you can pay that much, but there are finishers who charge much less.

 

[murphy]

I imagine you can pay that much, but there are finishers who charge much less.

I have not been able to find one in Toronto area...Remember my 750 dollars Can is your 500 dollars US

 

[Inara]

Looks good - what's a "shimmer"? Like a translucent glaze-coat?

Thanks! Yeah, it's designed to be sprayed over a base coat that's already close to the color you want, but you want to add a metallic shimmer. Me calling it a "shimmer" is just because Krylon put that on the can though, not because it's an official paint term lol ... I have no idea if it's a normal word for this sort of thing or if that's just Krylon-lingo. Here's what I used ... It's cool, and comes in a lot of colors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F9LDWZA/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_QiMNEbFFENYJ4

 

[murphy]

I am waiting for someone to offer to paint my bass......

 

[Dean N]

...But really want Charcoal Frost metallic...But do not want to pay $750 to get it!!

If you have Napa Auto up there in the Great White North, see if you can get them to load rattle cans with paint. I had my local store load cans with Martin Senour metallic paint specified to a Toyota paint code and was very happy with it. I think it was the Crossfire line of paint, about 15 or 17 bucks a can. Clear was slightly less.

 

[Fat Freddy]

I am waiting for someone to offer to paint my bass......

Think I've got some spare emulsion in the basement.....kinda greeny beige.....I'll do it!....

 

[JIO]

Thanks! Yeah, it's designed to be sprayed over a base coat that's already close to the color you want, but you want to add a metallic shimmer. Me calling it a "shimmer" is just because Krylon put that on the can though, not because it's an official paint term lol ... I have no idea if it's a normal word for this sort of thing or if that's just Krylon-lingo. Here's what I used ... It's cool, and comes in a lot of colors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F9LDWZA/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_QiMNEbFFENYJ4

I like the Krylon - I use their "Dual" (primer & paint) with great success. Each paint company makes up their own 'lingo', of which "shimmer" is one. Does it give it a candy glaze effect? (depth due to translucency?)

 

[JIO]

Think I've got some spare emulsion in the basement.....kinda greeny beige.....I'll do it!....

Monkey green