- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I've been a finisher my whole adult life and your assessment was my motto; it can always be stripped and finished again. And bonus - it's how you learn.
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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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I've been a finisher my whole adult life and your assessment was my motto; it can always be stripped and finished again. And bonus - it's how you learn.
Go into it accepting that it probably won’t come out great your first try. For a lot of people, Ted first try is the only try. I’ve painted about 5 guitars now, and still kind of suck at it. All the cliches are true, the more time you spend prepping the guitar, the better it will come out.
Especially with the sparkly stuff, don't fall into the following traps.
1. It doesn't look like I'm covering that much i should spray more.
This leads to many a run and glob. Go slow, a little bit at a time.
2 I made a bad run cause I was too close and the paint was spitting. I'll just spray more.
Guess what? More runs!
3. I have orange peel, I'm gonna sand it flat.
Don't do it. Especially with sparkle. You'll kill it. Plus after you spray clear, enough clear, you'll sand that flat and polish.
4. It feels dry after 24 hours, I should start sanding.
I know you're excited, wait 48 hours longer than the recommendation. Trust me, lots of paint cures top down.
Good luck!!!!
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@Sub-hoo-fer, I've had decent luck with both Duplicolor and Krylon. I've found Krylon to be easy to apply, particularly if you are patient enough to walk away after a light coat and then do that 15 or so more times (rather than impatiently assaulting your piece with a heavy coating that drips runs and flattens all those sparkly bits).
Don't be afraid to buy an extra can to use as practice on a sacrificial piece of wood before starting on the bass body.
Don't sand any paint you can still smell. That might really test your patience, but will give you the best shot at a good gloss finish.
Don't be afraid to buy an extra can to use as practice on a sacrificial piece of wood before starting on the bass body.
Don't sand any paint you can still smell. That might really test your patience, but will give you the best shot at a good gloss finish.
I originally posted in Hardware, Set Up & Repair about somehow incorporating the burns on the upper horns into the existing finish, but after seeing the beautiful examples here am now thinking of a 'sparkle' rattle can finish on the entire body.
I have no experience doing this and am not looking to create a showpiece since I am a bit of a heavy handed clod. I'm just trying to resurrect the instrument.
Does anybody have any tips on prepping the charred sections on the body (removal, filling, sealing?) or know of a post/thread that deals with this and can direct me to it?
I'll have to buy a new neck (fretless?) and might do a matching headstock.
Thanks in advance!
I have no experience doing this and am not looking to create a showpiece since I am a bit of a heavy handed clod. I'm just trying to resurrect the instrument.
Does anybody have any tips on prepping the charred sections on the body (removal, filling, sealing?) or know of a post/thread that deals with this and can direct me to it?
I'll have to buy a new neck (fretless?) and might do a matching headstock.
Thanks in advance!
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I would start with sanding off the burnt sections until you reach solid wood....Do not overdo it..
That is my humble opinion only......just using common sense
Hello everyone. Maybe someone can give me some advice on this.
I’m refinishing my tele with Krylon colormaster rattle cans and using the satin acrylic crystal clear as my clear coat. I completed the headstock first as a test and it came out pretty much perfect. No sanding required on the satin clear coat.
When I started my clear coat on the body I had a nice even coat going until I lost my place, and hit the same spot once too many times which caused some sag. I completed the rest of the coat a little lighter and let it dry. I lightly sanded the line where it started to run and shot another coat of clear over the whole thing. Problem is the area before the run is darker than the area after it. I assume this is from the thickness of the clear on top? If so will this correct itself as I keep adding more coats, or do I need to sand and start again?
Thanks!
I’m refinishing my tele with Krylon colormaster rattle cans and using the satin acrylic crystal clear as my clear coat. I completed the headstock first as a test and it came out pretty much perfect. No sanding required on the satin clear coat.
When I started my clear coat on the body I had a nice even coat going until I lost my place, and hit the same spot once too many times which caused some sag. I completed the rest of the coat a little lighter and let it dry. I lightly sanded the line where it started to run and shot another coat of clear over the whole thing. Problem is the area before the run is darker than the area after it. I assume this is from the thickness of the clear on top? If so will this correct itself as I keep adding more coats, or do I need to sand and start again?
Thanks!
OK. So, the body has come out pretty nice (if purple multi color glitter is your thing)!
I filled and sanded the charred sections with a wood filler and roughened up the remaining original finished surface.
I sprayed the entire body with Rustoleum black satin paint-primer.
I sprayed the body with multiple coats of Rustoleum purple multi color glitter, then sprayed it with multiple coats of their "glitter sealer".
I'd like to further seal that in something that will give it a smooth to the touch, clear protective surface. Even though I've used their recommended sealer, the surface is still very rough and I think the glitter will still come off.
Would you think that it just requires many, many more coats of their sealer or would anyone know of a compatible spray product that would achieve/approach what I'm trying to accomplish?
Here's some pics.
I've got a Mighty Mite fretless P neck on the way and I'd like to do a matching headstock too.
I filled and sanded the charred sections with a wood filler and roughened up the remaining original finished surface.
I sprayed the entire body with Rustoleum black satin paint-primer.
I sprayed the body with multiple coats of Rustoleum purple multi color glitter, then sprayed it with multiple coats of their "glitter sealer".
I'd like to further seal that in something that will give it a smooth to the touch, clear protective surface. Even though I've used their recommended sealer, the surface is still very rough and I think the glitter will still come off.
Would you think that it just requires many, many more coats of their sealer or would anyone know of a compatible spray product that would achieve/approach what I'm trying to accomplish?
Here's some pics.
I've got a Mighty Mite fretless P neck on the way and I'd like to do a matching headstock too.
Attachments
Reranch surf green and Stewmac vintage white. Six coats (two cans) of clear each. wet sanded to 2000 and buffed with random orbital. Both had to be "unreliced" with sanding and small amounts of wood filler prior to painting
. Not pro quality, but I'm happy with them.
love that surf green. would love to see it over burst, then relic'd.
That would be sweet. Unfortunately, that one was a Road Worn in Fiesta "Pink". Had to go. The White one was sunburst, so maybe it will relic itself through the thin topcoat and primer.
I've only used nitrocellulose lacquer, but I believe a catalyzed, or 2 part clear (2K) is what you're looking for. The Reranch paint site has a refinishing forum that's good. Also, Google will send you to a Telecaster forum with a lot of good advice. TDPR maybe?
I've inquired at Rust-oleum (might as well spell it like they do at this point) and they suggested their Triple Thick Glaze spray for a thick, smooth glossy finish, although they say it hasn't been tested with their other clear finishes (Glitter Sealer) and suggested a test application in an inconspicuous area. Got some on order.
Got my Mighty Mite fretless neck today (looks like a plastic board..."Ebanol") and cleaned up all the original hardware.
Next step is to paint the front of the headstock and do minor touch-up on the body.
Then install hardware on neck and body and align and install the neck.
Got my Mighty Mite fretless neck today (looks like a plastic board..."Ebanol") and cleaned up all the original hardware.
Next step is to paint the front of the headstock and do minor touch-up on the body.
Then install hardware on neck and body and align and install the neck.
Hey everyone, I need a bit if advice.
I'm refinishing this body. It's made of plywood, and the top layer was some sort of mahogany.
I bought duplicolor filler primer, hoping that it would fill the grain nicely, but after almost a whole can, it looks like this:
Still lots of open pores.
Should I:
1. Just keep adding more coats until it's smooth.
2. Hit it with wood/grain filler, sand it smooth, more primer coats.
3. Sand it back down to bare wood and then do step 2.
4. ?
Any input is appreciated!
I'm refinishing this body. It's made of plywood, and the top layer was some sort of mahogany.
I bought duplicolor filler primer, hoping that it would fill the grain nicely, but after almost a whole can, it looks like this:
Still lots of open pores.
Should I:
1. Just keep adding more coats until it's smooth.
2. Hit it with wood/grain filler, sand it smooth, more primer coats.
3. Sand it back down to bare wood and then do step 2.
4. ?
Any input is appreciated!
I think it looks sorta cool like that! Anyway, I'd elect to sand I'd down before filling. Any type of shortcut during finishing always bites me in the rear.
I agree that it looks kinda cool, but I imagine shooting color and clear over that would present issues.
I've been reading that its ok to put filler over primer as long you scuff it up a bit, but I'll wait until I get some more opinions.
I've been reading that its ok to put filler over primer as long you scuff it up a bit, but I'll wait until I get some more opinions.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,603
- 222,065
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Doing it over primer is actually good - just level sand the body to get rid of things like the blotchy paint on the upper horn, do your filling, re-sand level, re-prime, repeat where needed until level and grain-filled.
