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Rattle Can Refinish Club

Nice...
Pictures of the front please
and will you come and do my Flea bass too???? :cool: :thumbsup:

Sure, plane fair and all expenses paid to start with! ;) Oh, and shaken - not stirred.
upload_2021-1-22_18-6-57.jpeg
 
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Hello! I’ve been in the process of restoring an early ‘90s Aria Pro Integra. When I got it, it was already stripped and I decided to refinish black with Stew-Mac lacquer. I’m now at the late stages but it looks like I didn’t wet sand well enough (I went up to 3000 grit) because in the buffing stage I’m still seeing some scratches despite going through the course, medium, fine, through “swirl remover” compounds from Stew-Mac.

I feel like it’s at the point of no return because I might sand through the clear coat if I go back to wet sanding and, well, I’m just “done”! As it stands it’s sort of an unintentional relic since the finish now resembles some of my other 30 year old Integra original finishes!

I still have to do the neck on this bass and another restoration coming up so I’d like to see where I went wrong or how I can correct it if possible. I never expected perfection and there are many problems with the finish but as a first attempt I’m ok with it. Just wondering if I need to keep trying the compounds or if that would result in possibly burning through the finish at this point? Also I let the finish cure for about 7 months before wet sanding so I know that’s not my problem.
Thanks for any help! Here are some pics with a before shot thrown in.

FC015B00-03A5-4BDB-8C41-AE64776D7367.jpeg
B6ED9810-16C3-414D-98E2-19F67D9C439D.jpeg
66F23ADF-3A85-48D3-A959-BB47AC2734E0.jpeg

Random white marks have shown up in a couple places.
88C04949-85B7-4811-A28D-5AE2639F34AE.jpeg
F8932DCE-CCDF-4680-9849-9EEBEE52CDA8.jpeg
 
Hello! I’ve been in the process of restoring an early ‘90s Aria Pro Integra. When I got it, it was already stripped and I decided to refinish black with Stew-Mac lacquer. I’m now at the late stages but it looks like I didn’t wet sand well enough (I went up to 3000 grit) because in the buffing stage I’m still seeing some scratches despite going through the course, medium, fine, through “swirl remover” compounds from Stew-Mac.

I feel like it’s at the point of no return because I might sand through the clear coat if I go back to wet sanding and, well, I’m just “done”! As it stands it’s sort of an unintentional relic since the finish now resembles some of my other 30 year old Integra original finishes!

I still have to do the neck on this bass and another restoration coming up so I’d like to see where I went wrong or how I can correct it if possible. I never expected perfection and there are many problems with the finish but as a first attempt I’m ok with it. Just wondering if I need to keep trying the compounds or if that would result in possibly burning through the finish at this point? Also I let the finish cure for about 7 months before wet sanding so I know that’s not my problem.
Thanks for any help! Here are some pics with a before shot thrown in.

View attachment 4145499 View attachment 4145500 View attachment 4145501
Random white marks have shown up in a couple places.
View attachment 4145502 View attachment 4145503

Regarding the white spots, check out Reranch's Blush Out remover. (I am not at all sure if that's what it is, just a possibility.)

I have no idea on the fine scratches, except that it's important to rotate your polishing applicator as you change to finer compounds. I have been using automotive polish for clear coats (low risk) with mixed results. I am curious how you are polishing it. I plan to do my current project by hand, and I am not very excited about that.
 
Thanks for the response. I am definitely using different applicators for each compound. I’m trying by hand and a drill attachment - trying to be careful not to apply too much pressure with the drill.

Regarding the white spots, check out Reranch's Blush Out remover. (I am not at all sure if that's what it is, just a possibility.)

I have no idea on the fine scratches, except that it's important to rotate your polishing applicator as you change to finer compounds. I have been using automotive polish for clear coats (low risk) with mixed results. I am curious how you are polishing it. I plan to do my current project by hand, and I am not very excited about that.
 
Thanks for the response. I am definitely using different applicators for each compound. I’m trying by hand and a drill attachment - trying to be careful not to apply too much pressure with the drill.

For fine swirls I would recommend meguires ultimate compound, by hand, clean soft old t-shirt or super soft polishing cloth, and a dedicated if not specialized polish remover towel.

throw out (repurpose) anything that hits the ground or has any possible dirt particles.

If you see swirls forming, stop! Use a different applicator/ remover.

It’s an obsessive thing. I’ve done a lot of cars.

I recommend stopping use of the drill for the swirls. It’s not working and definitely at risk for burn through.

You should see progress after a half minute of light polishing. Let the speed of movement (small circles) do the work. Work a small area like mowing a lawn but alternate from horizontal to vertical rows, maybe three passes each, then wipe. Expect to see progress from
Your first Light slow polish and wipe. If you don’t or if you see diminished returns, I suggest evaluating / replacing your applicator and removal (towels). If you see noticeable progress, your applicator and removal towels are working and you can increase pressure and speed a very little bit.

You should be able to get to nearly no visible imperfections with the ultimate compound and call it good.

I’ve never gone through any finish with ultimate compound, even using a random orbital polisher over and over again. That said, you might be at the end of the clear. Hard to say.
 
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Hello! I’ve been in the process of restoring an early ‘90s Aria Pro Integra. When I got it, it was already stripped and I decided to refinish black with Stew-Mac lacquer. I’m now at the late stages but it looks like I didn’t wet sand well enough (I went up to 3000 grit) because in the buffing stage I’m still seeing some scratches despite going through the course, medium, fine, through “swirl remover” compounds from Stew-Mac.

I feel like it’s at the point of no return because I might sand through the clear coat if I go back to wet sanding and, well, I’m just “done”! As it stands it’s sort of an unintentional relic since the finish now resembles some of my other 30 year old Integra original finishes!

I still have to do the neck on this bass and another restoration coming up so I’d like to see where I went wrong or how I can correct it if possible. I never expected perfection and there are many problems with the finish but as a first attempt I’m ok with it. Just wondering if I need to keep trying the compounds or if that would result in possibly burning through the finish at this point? Also I let the finish cure for about 7 months before wet sanding so I know that’s not my problem.
Thanks for any help! Here are some pics with a before shot thrown in.

View attachment 4145499 View attachment 4145500 View attachment 4145501
Random white marks have shown up in a couple places.
View attachment 4145502 View attachment 4145503
3M Finesse It should be used as a prepolish to Meguiars Ultimate. It will help smooth over the scratches you see and then you can use the Meguiars to finish it up with a final polish.

In regards to sanding the most effective way is to use a hard block in one direction and then go across with a hard block when you step up to the next, when you see that all of the scratches in the direction you polished before are gone, you are done. For the most part, some will argue against this, 1500 is more than sufficient prior to using polishing compound. Also orbital polishers can be found for cheap just about anywhere.
 
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3M Finesse It should be used as a prepolish to Meguiars Ultimate. It will help smooth over the scratches you see and then you can use the Meguiars to finish it up with a final polish.

In regards to sanding the most effective way is to use a hard block in one direction and then go across with a hard block when you step up to the next, when you see that all of the scratches in the direction you polished before are gone, you are done. For the most part, some will argue against this, 1500 is more than sufficient prior to using polishing compound. Also orbital polishers can be found for cheap just about anywhere.

Good to know re Finesse It - thank you!
 
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Has anyone had success with the Stew Mac compounds (course, medium, fine, swirl remover)? I am willing to try the Meguiars Ultimate but I was hoping their stuff would work out for me as it wasn’t cheap!

Unfortunately it looks like I have the dreaded bubbling up due to moisture seeping in during the wet sanding!! I started with water/dish soap but then I switched to mineral spirits to hopefully avoid this. Ugh! Again, I’m OK with the overall results as a first time job and relative to the value of the bass but I am hoping to learn from these hard lessons! Lol
 
I did a search on 3M Finesse It but there appear to several varieties - can your recommend one? Thanks again.

3M Finesse It should be used as a prepolish to Meguiars Ultimate. It will help smooth over the scratches you see and then you can use the Meguiars to finish it up with a final polish.

In regards to sanding the most effective way is to use a hard block in one direction and then go across with a hard block when you step up to the next, when you see that all of the scratches in the direction you polished before are gone, you are done. For the most part, some will argue against this, 1500 is more than sufficient prior to using polishing compound. Also orbital polishers can be found for cheap just about anywhere.
 
Has anyone had success with the Stew Mac compounds (course, medium, fine, swirl remover)? I am willing to try the Meguiars Ultimate but I was hoping their stuff would work out for me as it wasn’t cheap!

Unfortunately it looks like I have the dreaded bubbling up due to moisture seeping in during the wet sanding!! I started with water/dish soap but then I switched to mineral spirits to hopefully avoid this. Ugh! Again, I’m OK with the overall results as a first time job and relative to the value of the bass but I am hoping to learn from these hard lessons! Lol

Meguiars Scratch X or Finesse it 2. The Stewmac compounds are likely just repackaged polishing compound from someone else. Also Naptha.
 
I want to join the club. Here's a refinish I did with my dad on my old squier vm jazz fiver. Used Krylon Satin Seaglass and some spray lacquer. We originally got the wrong type of clear coat that didn't harden right... and then when I tried to buff out some fingerprints it caused more issues, and then trying to fix those issued turned into us just starting over so we didn't have such thick paint haha. Live and learn.

Anyway, here it is all finished. I also swapped out the pickguard for white pearloid and got some white knobs. Overall really happy with the result, and especially the small price tag.

Now do I keep it as is... or do I add more vintage stylings like a chrome pickup guard, bridge cover, thumb rest....

View attachment 4001197


That really looks great!

If I could only perfect the gloss I'd be all over doing that.
 
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