Rattle Can Refinish Club

[murphy]

Li


Thats very cool, I still have a bleh blue P bass, I’ve changed enough that I kinda like the color. View attachment 4163463

I really like the Bleh Blue!

 

[friskinator]

These 2 are now clear coated and curing. Wet sanding and polishing this weekend. I'm really digging these 2 colors.

 

[friskinator]

Question for those who have done matte/satin clear coats: polish after sanding, or no? I'm going to try Minwax satin clear on my next project, and I was curious about the sanding and polishing technique for that. I did a search in this thread but couldn't find anything conclusive. Thanks!

 

[JIO]

I've posted this in a few other places but it is a 'rattle-can' finish so here it is - I used Montana products which I wasn't aware of until deciding upon this craquelure look, which alludes to Danelectro 'crackle' finishes from the '60s.

For those who haven't already visited - here's the thread for it - Hornet Crackle Kraze Batman! Craquelure effect finish

 

[friskinator]

This one is done! I think it came out nicely. Rustoleum Copper Rose Metallic, Minwax clear gloss lacquer, and Micromesh sanding followed by Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Scratch-X.

 

[Gecko 5]

Question for the experts.
If I want to refinish a bass, do I have to completely strip the old finish off, or can I scuff
it and lay a primer down?

 

[friskinator]

Question for the experts.
If I want to refinish a bass, do I have to completely strip the old finish off, or can I scuff
it and lay a primer down?

You don’t have to strip. You don’t even have to use primer if you buy an all in one can. The bass I just posted was done with that. But scuffing, yes. 220 then 320.

 

[skycruiser]

If you like the paint job you’d love the electronics. The switch changes the volume and tone knobs between 500K and 250k Pots.

It was an interesting wiring experiment which makes precisely zero difference to the tone.

Mythbuster post here.

 

[friskinator]

Next up: Squier Affinity P in Krylon Colormaxx Coral Isle.

 

[murphy]

Next up: Squier Affinity P in Krylon Colormaxx Coral Isle.

View attachment 4208875

How will you get rid of the orange peel effect?

 

[friskinator]

How will you get rid of the orange peel effect?

I’ll dry sand lightly with a high grit.

 

[friskinator]

Just finished. Squier Affinity P in Krylon Colormaxx Coral Isle with Minwax clear lacquer.

 

[JIO]

Just finished. Squier Affinity P in Krylon Colormaxx Coral Isle with Minwax clear lacquer.

View attachment 4229994

 

[friskinator]

Clear coating this one now. Krylon Glitter Blast Orange Burst. I probably won't use this paint again - it took 3 5.5 oz cans to get full coverage, and I'm not optimistic about getting all that glitter texture covered by the clear.

 

[friskinator]

I was like the lone negative reviewer on Amazon for that product for a while. I got a few hateful comments. I talked about it elsewhere and and despite following the instructions implicitly and having background in the use of two part urethanes and the analysis of them I was criticized for saying anything negative about it. I even bought a different can from another source and had the same issue. I think for the most part it is likely that there was an issue with formulation for a brief period of time. Others have had a lot of success using it. It was summer and I painted in a tented area outside. The humidity was checked to make sure it was low enough, but even so that might have had a deleterious effect on the cure rate. The problem was three weeks went by and the stuff was still soft, very soft. Movable with your finger soft. The ratio of A/B block was likely off and whatever catalyst they used was not promoting polymerization sufficiently. Needless to say I was pissed. Roth has some great stuff though. It is worth the cash if you want to get a great flake and don't have a gun and compressor.

If you want to do flake on the cheap I highly recommend Krylon Glitter Blast with a Fusion overcoat. Fusion is a great workable 1 part clearcoat. Sands easy and goes on nice with a very durable finish. Also builds really well on successive coats.
View attachment 3776442 This is Glitter Blast with Fusion.

I know this is an old post, but I'm in the process of doing a Glitter Blast refin and I have a question. I'm using Minwax clear spray lacquer for my top coat, and after 2.5 cans, the finish still feels bumpy after drying. I'm planning on spraying another can, but I'm skeptical about achieving a smooth-ish finish I can ultimately wet sand and polish. Any advice?

 

[JIO]

I know this is an old post, but I'm in the process of doing a Glitter Blast refin and I have a question. I'm using Minwax clear spray lacquer for my top coat, and after 2.5 cans, the finish still feels bumpy after drying. I'm planning on spraying another can, but I'm skeptical about achieving a smooth-ish finish I can ultimately wet sand and polish. Any advice?

With any sparkle finish, it takes a substantial clear-coat to submerge the flakes before level-sanding. It will remain 'bumpy'/textured, but will get less so with more coats. You can test level-sanding in areas that are going to be covered. (pg, neck pocket)

 

[cratz2]

I refinished five or six guitars but only one bass so far. I used Rustoleum's paint intended for automobile use. It's metallic pearl white, almost pearl off white though it doesn't look super pearly or very metallic in this pic. I might try for a better shot.

 

[JIO]

I refinished five or six guitars but only one bass so far. I used Rustoleum's paint intended for automobile use. It's metallic pearl white, almost pearl off white though it doesn't look super pearly or very metallic in this pic. I might try for a better shot.

View attachment 4235789

Looks good - shooting real pearl is not easy as it requires deft handling of the coating, which is hard to do with a rattle-can. I shot a motorcycle part with a 2 part rattle-can white pearl and it was a bear. (1st part - white base coat, second part - thin/even pearl coat) Your job looks pretty even.

 

[friskinator]

With any sparkle finish, it takes a substantial clear-coat to submerge the flakes before level-sanding. It will remain 'bumpy'/textured, but will get less so with more coats. You can test level-sanding in areas that are going to be covered. (pg, neck pocket)

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna put one more can on it then let it cure. That'll be 3.5 cans total.

 

[murphy]

I've posted this in a few other places but it is a 'rattle-can' finish so here it is - I used Montana products which I wasn't aware of until deciding upon this craquelure look, which alludes to Danelectro 'crackle' finishes from the '60s.

For those who haven't already visited - here's the thread for it - Hornet Crackle Kraze Batman! Craquelure effect finish

View attachment 4197883 View attachment 4197879

I think this happened to some of my refinishing in years gone...
If I had known it was Kool...I would have left it..

I LOVE it!!