• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

RBX 260 Refinish

5below

5below

Jan 18, 2015
165
166
72
Louisville, KY
#1
I recently bought a Yamaha RBX 260 to use as a learning tool. It had nothing except the neck (maple, 24 frets, rosewood finger board). I plan to strip the finish, refinish it, add hardware and play! I've never done this before, so I have a lot to learn.

I brought out the heat gun and got started on the body. I was able to remove the finish, but got stymied by the sealer coat. Heat didn't touch it (or so I thought!). I tried chemicals, no avail! I went so far as to contact Yamaha support and spoke to "Ed', the guitar tech. He was really nice and we had a great conversation. He did not know how to get the sealer off, other than a lot of sanding.

However, today I tried the heat gun again, based on a comment for a TBer about the sealer just flaking off under heat. It worked really well! But, I made a fair number of scratches and little dings, do I have a lot of sanding to do!

IMG_3019.JPG IMG_3025.JPG IMG_3076.JPG IMG_3079.JPG IMG_3078.JPG


There seems to be sort of a veneer on the top and back, covering the glued body wood. I think it will turn out well. I'm certainly going to try my best!

More to follow as progress is made.
 
  • Like
Reactions: T_Bone_TL
#2
Interesting. I have a 270 out of the Taiwan factory in mist purple, and I have to admit that mist purple is a color I'd have been more into at a considerably different age than I am now (or was when I got it not so long ago) not to mention a few pre-existing dings in the finish (kept the price down, fine with me), so giving it a re-do is on the list of "eventually" projects... Thing still plays better than I can play it, so it's doing all I need from it in dented mist purple (and now I've got the Czech-republic fretless gigantic hollow-body that's making me take it out in public to play to keep me way beyond my skill-set anyhow.)
 
#4
T_Bone_TL said:
Interesting. I have a 270 out of the Taiwan factory in mist purple, and I have to admit that mist purple is a color I'd have been more into at a considerably different age than I am now (or was when I got it not so long ago) not to mention a few pre-existing dings in the finish (kept the price down, fine with me), so giving it a re-do is on the list of "eventually" projects... Thing still plays better than I can play it, so it's doing all I need from it in dented mist purple (and now I've got the Czech-republic fretless gigantic hollow-body that's making me take it out in public to play to keep me way beyond my skill-set anyhow.)
Click to expand...

The 260 is from Taiwan also. the heat made the poly sealer really brittle and it just flaked right off once it got hot. It never did bubble up. so I thought it wasn't useful - I was wrong. It took a total of about 4 hours to strip the body down to plain wood.
 
#5
I realize this is a little late for the OP, but if you're going to do a solid refin, you really don't need to strip down to the bare wood. You can fill dings, sand (scuff), and paint.

That's assuming there are no major issues with the original finish, such as nasty cracks, missing chunks of finish, etc. Then it's more work.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Beej, Dadagoboi and 5below
#6
daveman50 said:
I realize this is a little late for the OP, but if you're going to do a solid refin, you really don't need to strip down to the bare wood. You can fill dings, sand (scuff), and paint.

That's assuming there are no major issues with the original finish, such as nasty cracks, missing chunks of finish, etc. Then it's a more work.
Click to expand...

Thanks, daveman50. I'm planning on using dyes or stains, so I needed to get it back to wood. So far so good!
 
#7
5below said:
Thanks, daveman50. I'm planning on using dyes or stains, so I needed to get it back to wood. So far so good!
Click to expand...
Cool. Sometimes the wood on a less expensive bass is not so pretty. I'll look forward to seeing how you make out.
No matter what, it's a learning curve and you are going for it! You will learn a lot from this project... and the next... and the next. It really never ends.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 5below
#9
totalgiraffe said:
How are you getting on mate?

I've got a rbx260 myself and i've just taken it apart ready to refinish, hoping to stain it if the woods good enough underneath.
Click to expand...

Well, I did not do a good job stripping off the finish. I created a few gouges and scratches which I am afraid to really sand out of the veneer. Having said that, the heat gun on the lowest setting with some elbow grease took the finish off well, including the seal coat. I have now sanded the neck down to bare wood. I think I am giving up on the small crack in the headstock - I could not open it up to get glue into it and I don't want to force it. That may all change will some string tension on it, eventually.

I think the veneer on mine is poplar, despite the fact that the Yamaha guitar tech (real nice guy!) told me it would not be poplar. I've shown it to a few expert woods-men (cabinet makers) and poplar looks close. I'm going to try to do a brown to honey or amber burst on it using dyes, since I have a solid surface to work on. I'll post pictures as I go along.

Good luck with your project!
 
#10
How much for the 'Homer Box'? Good luck on your project. I just got an MB-10 kit from Saga, and hopefully can find some time to start it, soon. As long as the look of the wood grain is good, I'm going to try a transparent honey blonde for mine...
 
  • Like
Reactions: 5below
#11
5below said:
Well, I did not do a good job stripping off the finish. I created a few gouges and scratches which I am afraid to really sand out of the veneer. Having said that, the heat gun on the lowest setting with some elbow grease took the finish off well, including the seal coat. I have now sanded the neck down to bare wood. I think I am giving up on the small crack in the headstock - I could not open it up to get glue into it and I don't want to force it. That may all change will some string tension on it, eventually.

I think the veneer on mine is poplar, despite the fact that the Yamaha guitar tech (real nice guy!) told me it would not be poplar. I've shown it to a few expert woods-men (cabinet makers) and poplar looks close. I'm going to try to do a brown to honey or amber burst on it using dyes, since I have a solid surface to work on. I'll post pictures as I go along.

Good luck with your project!
Click to expand...

Excellent, i don't have a heat gun so from what you've said and everything I've looked at so far it looking like a necessity.

Cant wait to see the finished job, i'm wanting to do a brown coloured stain as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 5below
#13
5below said:
I has been a looong time since I have reported on progress. I'm almost at the point of pondering "how do you know when it's DONE?" I'll post some pics of the transition.
Click to expand...

Looking forward mate.

I've taken the lacquer off mine now but i stupidly got too impatient and tried a trick i saw online of setting it on fine. created too much heat and i've ended up taking the veneer off it. nightmare. still going to salvage it.
 
#16
Spidey2112 said:
How much for the 'Homer Box'? Good luck on your project. I just got an MB-10 kit from Saga, and hopefully can find some time to start it, soon. As long as the look of the wood grain is good, I'm going to try a transparent honey blonde for mine...
Click to expand...
The "Homer box" is $8 from Home Depot.
How is your MB-10? I have finally gotten the body of the RBX260 to where I think I am "done" with the staining. I'm having difficulties posting pics, but I'll keep trying.
 
#18
5below said:
The "Homer box" is $8 from Home Depot.
How is your MB-10? I have finally gotten the body of the RBX260 to where I think I am "done" with the staining. I'm having difficulties posting pics, but I'll keep trying.
Click to expand...

I missed my window of opportunity to apply primer, paint, and lacquer (winter), so just staying busy sanding neck and body (it was sealed, so not too much left), trying out different logo designs, etc. I actually have changed my mind with the finish, going more with a nitro-cellulose 'Copper Tone Metallic'... think '52 Tele. Basswood is a closed grain wood, not very receptive to transparent finishes, from what I've read, so Doc Savage it is... The Man of Bronze, for you youngsters, in here. Take care, bro and good luck!

"NBD"... 5 string Saga MB-10
 
Last edited:
#19
Spidey2112 said:
I missed my window of opportunity to apply primer, paint, and lacquer (winter), so just staying busy sanding neck and body (it was sealed, so not too much left), trying out different logo designs, etc. I actually have changed my mind with the finish, going more with a nitro-cellulose 'Copper Tone Metallic'... think '52 Tele. Basswood is a closed grain wood, not very receptive to transparent finishes, from what I've read, so Doc Savage it is... The Man of Bronze, for you youngsters, in here. Take care, bro and good luck!

"NBD"... 5 string Saga MB-10
Click to expand...
Good luck to you as well. I can't wait to see the finished project!
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back