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Relationship between Neck bow, Action, and Buzz.

Ive been tinkering with my Dean 6'er to get the "perfect" setup.
I pluck with my fingers, and I tend to have a very heavy picking style, which causes some extra buzz, so I've had to raise the bridge action accordingly.
My neck is showing a very small amount of bow towards the strings, I tend to use the string at the 1st and 15th/24th fret as a straight edge, in the middle there is a gap about the size of a dime. It sounds great as it is, but if i were to adjust the truss rod to compensate would the action be just THAT much easier to handle? Or would this mess up my current setup regarding balancing string height and action?
 
You should be able to take a lot of that bow out without it causing buzz problems. You need a little relief in the neck, but not nearly as much as most basses and guitars seem to have. I would say, shoot for a gap about the thickness of a sheet of paper. You can make fine adjustments from there. But, I'm sure that will be much closer to optimal than a gap the size of a dime.

In my experience, a little less relief can make a very noticeable difference in how easily a bass plays, even without changing string height at the bridge.

There are several factors that contribute to buzz. String height (too low) or relief (not enough) are big ones, but as you start dialing them in, you can run up against fretwork imperfections that may not be apparent if the bass is not set up well, particularly if the action is high. If the following procedure does not seem to be working for you, you may have a high fret somewhere that's screwing things up.

Here's an easy way to evaluate the action on your bass.

Play up and down each string. Do they buzz unacceptably anywhere?

No:​

Are you happy with how the bass plays?​

Yes: Congratulations! You're done.​

No: Lower the string height a bit and repeat.​

Yes: If you are getting buzz​

On the low frets by the nut, but not on the upper frets by the body: Add some more relief to the neck, and repeat.​

On the high frets by the body but not on the low frets by the nut: Take some relief out of the neck, raise the string height a bit, and repeat.​

Everywhere: Raise the string height a bit, and repeat.​

Only in one specific place on the neck: Sorry, but you have a high or low fret, and you will need some sort of fret leveling or re-seating---have a tech or luthier check it out.​

When using this procedure, as you get closer, you can make smaller and smaller adjustments. Eventually you will get to the point where it's as good as it can be. If your neck is straight and your frets are in good shape, even a cheapo bass can be made to play remarkably well.

Also, you should be getting the same results from each string. If one or two strings are doing something different, adjust them until they are approximately the same as the others. If your bridge saddles don't match the curvature of the fretboard, the inside strings will be different than the outside strings. However, a different result on an outside string can also be caused by a fret end that has raised up out of the slot. (This may not be visible; thousandths of an inch can make a difference with this stuff.) If you can't get the strings to behave the same way, that may be the cause.

Good luck!
 
There are several videos and tutorials available on the internet (see the "sticky" links) Read thoroughly and understand the setup procedure before trying to do a hap-hazard attempt. Adjusting neck relief is only one step in doing a proper setup. Don't just rely on what you read from me or others on this site, you may be getting very bad advise. We are all anxious to help and advise but you don't know who of us is qualified to give good advise. Read Fender's site, Stewmac's site, Sadowsky's site and others and combine all the info in your mind BEFORE you start.
Rocky
 
Neck relief, and action height are related, but separate adjustments. When doing a setup; you always check the neck relief first which is independent from the action height. Relief is simply to allow for the string to freely oscillate without hitting the fretboard. I set mine up so that there's about the clearance of a credit card at the 9th fret using the 1st, and last frets (depressed simultaneously) as a straightedge. Be sure it's in tune. Once set - you're done. No more neck adjustment.

Secondly set your action height where you like it - a Stew/Mac string action gauge works fantastic.
 
Relief: If you played with a very, very, light touch and you have near perfect frets, you could play with zero relief.
Action: String height above the frets, controlled by nut slot depth and the bridge saddle height. Some people can play with a much lower action than others. Again, with a light touch, plucking technique.
Fret Buzz: The result of not enough relief, action too low, or a combination of both, or a very, rough, aggressive touch.

A bass may have horrible fret buzz with one player and no fret buzz with a different player.
Rocky
 

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