Double Bass Resources for fitting a brand new bridge?

[BassMan5k]

Hi, could you point me to the right resources (preferably youtube video?) for fitting a brand new bridge? I bought a used bass and the bridge was cut so bad that A) the feet don't make complete contact and B) the bridge has to be 1 inch closer to the neck than the proper position (dash on the F hole) to make it remotely playable.

I'd read the Invalid Link Removedollihur stuff and a few posts about the general idea but even from the sticky was having a hard time finding someone describing the whole process.

Thanks!

 

[DoubleMIDI]

If the bridge is too low at the right position, you can let a luthier install adjusters. But don't forget to tell him how much higher you need the bridge, so that he doesn't cut out too much wood. (Maybe almost none.)

For the bridge feet you can tape sandpaper on the top and sand the bridge where it should be placed at the end. Better do this before the adjusters are installed, it's much easier then. But don't forget to protect your top against the sand.

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

Let's see:
Band saw, drill press, jig for holding the bridge while drilling and tapping for the adjusters, scrapers, china marker or lipstick, several bridges to waste in learning what not to do........

Not really trying to be snarky but there's more to it than I ever imagined before I did a few dozen.

 

[BassMan5k]

That's definitely helpful, I'll be doing a non-adjustable bridge, but I'm still looking for resources and play by play on how to do it?

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

What Greg said. Fitting a bridge is a pig. I hate doing it.

Start with the feet. Sandpaper taped to the belly, or a VERY sharp knife and red lipstick. The rest of the job is fairly self-evident.

 

[1st Bass]

Here's a tutorial written by a cello luthier. Perhaps it will help:
Fitting and Carving a New Cello Bridge | Tutorial

 

[robobass]

Fitting and Carving a New Cello Bridge | Tutorial

Interesting. I especially like that tailpiece protector. I wish more bass shops I've visited owned something like this! She doesn't show anything about fitting the feet to the top though. Is that less of an issue on a cello? Overall my takeaway is that if you value your time at anything over three bucks an hour, you'll probably not lose money by handing this off to a pro

 

[Bisounourse]

Overall my takeaway is that if you value your time at anything over three bucks an hour, you'll probably not lose money by handing this off to a pro

What robobass says: take it to a luthier and have your bass setup and a bridge fit...
It's not like a BG where you can do your setup on your own.

 

[1st Bass]

Just as big an issue. I try to get the fit as close as I can, using a knife, then switch to scrapers, and the "lipstick-fit" method, to achieve an air-tight fit. That's for basses. On the smaller instruments I can achieve that fit without resorting to either chalk or lipstick.

 

[Ortsom]

I place the blank with a square to the back onto the top & trace the top's shape with a pencil (so contacting the top) onto the feet, at the approximate place where I want the cut. Then, using a jig to ensure the back stays perpendicular to the belt sander, I sand off the profile to the line using the front roll of the belt sander (Greg probably uses the band saw for exactly that). That gives a course fit in 5 minutes, the remainder takes hours of scraping with a sharp knife, and frequent fitting. For me it's just hobby and my time is cheap nowadays.

 

[Mark Gollihur]

Hi, could you point me to the right resources (preferably youtube video?) for fitting a brand new bridge? I bought a used bass and the bridge was cut so bad that A) the feet don't make complete contact and B) the bridge has to be 1 inch closer to the neck than the proper position (dash on the F hole) to make it remotely playable.

I'd read the Invalid Link Removedollihur stuff and a few posts about the general idea but even from the sticky was having a hard time finding someone describing the whole process.

Thanks!

Send me an email - markATgollihurmusicDOTcom and I'll email you a PDF of our bridge fitting tips.

 

[Greg Clinkingbeard]

Is the soundpost properly fit? Neck and fingerboard straight so when the bridge is centered it all lines up? If not, you have raise or lower one side to account for that? FWIW, I never use a knife on the feet, preferring a very sharp chisel with a curved edge and scrapers.

 

[BassMan5k]

Thanks for all the input guys! My current bridge kinda works, so I bought a cheap one for $20 that I'm going to see if I can get a better fit. If not, then I'm out $20 and hours of frustration.

I'll follow the Gollihur instructions that Mark is sending me. No one has really mentioned how to do the top of the bridge, I'll probably use the original as a template to pencil, then cut, then sand, then file. I know that there's curve that goes towards the bottom of the bass to make the contact on the strings better.

 

[KUNGfuSHERIFF]

I use a chainsaw file to cut down into the bridge crown to achieve appropriate string heights (usually 7-10mm G to E with steel strings), remove the excess crown material with a belt sander, thin the top edge of the crown to 5mm and remove wood from the sides of the crown to give the middle of the bridge a nice belly to balance strength and minimal damping.

Finish as desired with sandpaper. Some folks apply varnish, but my thing is more utilitarian than pretty.

 

[BassMan5k]

Still does anyone have youtube videos showing this process?