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Rhiannon and Galadriel

#102
Hank Scorpio said:
I'd just like to say that this thread has been a delight to read - the design of the bass is great, and the wood looks amazing. It's so nice to clearly see a mutual respect between luthier and customer, both having a clear focus but the flexibility to ensure everyone ends up happy.

Can't wait to see how this bass comes out!
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Thanks so much! I am loathe to adopt the moniker of "luthier" - I am just a small shop builder that enjoys what I do. Most of the credit goes to @rondodunbar - it's his vision and design.
 
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#103
A slight miscalculation on the walls of the radius block required a bit of modification. The walls were a bit shallow which led to a larger radius than I wanted, so adding some height with some spare alder, a little glue, and some clamping action will fix that right up. ;)

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#104
Hank Scorpio said:
I'd just like to say that this thread has been a delight to read - the design of the bass is great, and the wood looks amazing. It's so nice to clearly see a mutual respect between luthier and customer, both having a clear focus but the flexibility to ensure everyone ends up happy.

Can't wait to see how this bass comes out!
Click to expand...

Hank,
I am actually kind of surprised that there hasn't been more negative blow back from Fender purist on this build. I mean, I have taken a classic Fender icon and asked Michael to put some very modern tweaks on it, but I am glad it's been well received. All indications, so far, are that Rhiannon will be everything I am hoping she'll be. Michael has been great to work with, I can't think of any other luthier (Michael is too modest to claim that title but, he who build the lutes, is the luthier) I'd rather have working with me.
Rondo
 
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#105
rondodunbar said:
Hank,
I am actually kind of surprised that there hasn't been more negative blow back from Fender purist on this build. I mean, I have taken a classic Fender icon and asked Michael to put some very modern tweaks on it, but I am glad it's been well received. All indications, so far, are that Rhiannon will be everything I am hoping she'll be. Michael has been great to work with, I can't think of any other luthier (Michael is too modest to claim that title but, he who build the lutes, is the luthier) I'd rather have working with me.
Rondo
Click to expand...
Thank you so much Ron! As soon as the glue dries, the sanding dust will fly and the prototype will have a nice 7 1/4 inch radius.
 
#107
The radius block has been completed, and everything looks good. The oak neck was centered in the sanding box and locked down in place using double sided tape. Some pencil lines were scribbled across the face of the fingerboard to show progress while sanding, and now the work begins. I need the exercise, and this is going to provide plenty. ;)

DSC_0107.JPG

DSC_0108.JPG
 
#109
Jisch said:
I usually do 16" radius, so that looks incredibly curved compared to what I usually do. I have to play more basses! I can see that I need to expand my horizons after seeing this one and the other one that is flat. Two extremes!
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I personally prefer a flat (AKA infinity) fingerboard radius, but @rondodunbar's preferred radius is 7 1/4". It is going to be really interesting to play this bass when it's put together and see how it feels...I am so used to a flat radius that even 12" feels super round to me.
 
#110
michaelwayneharwood said:
... silicone nastiness. I must admit that I despise silicone caulk in general, but the insurance against rod rattle is more important than my feelings on the matter. ;)
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Is it the mess it can create and the long cure time, or is it the offensive eye burning off gassing you dislike? If it's the former, you can add corn starch to plain silicone sealant and it'll cure much firmer much faster, much more evenly. It becomes more like Sugru, which would be a solution (albeit a bit costly) if your objection is the latter. It's the acetic acid that burns the eyes and smells like vinegar (go figure), and it's part of the curing process. A bit of cross breeze also helps.

The cornstarch idea for a cheap Sugru substitute came from this instructable. I mix mine outside our in front of a fan, in a solo cup.

Now back to watching your amazing creation take shape...
 
#111
JdoubleH said:
Is it the mess it can create and the long cure time, or is it the offensive eye burning off gassing you dislike? If it's the former, you can add corn starch to plain silicone sealant and it'll cure much firmer much faster, much more evenly. It becomes more like Sugru, which would be a solution (albeit a bit costly) if your objection is the latter. It's the acetic acid that burns the eyes and smells like vinegar (go figure), and it's part of the curing process. A bit of cross breeze also helps.

The cornstarch idea for a cheap Sugru substitute came from this instructable. I mix mine outside our in front of a fan, in a solo cup.

Now back to watching your amazing creation take shape...
Click to expand...
For the most part my disgust is with Silicone and the adverse effects it has on wood finishes. A silicone contaminated piece is almost impossible to refinish without major issues. The small amount I am using will not spread out and destroy the bass from this perspective, but I hate having it anywhere near my wood.
 
#113
michaelwayneharwood said:
Sanding a radius from scratch on oak is freaking hard work. I ended up having to change over to 60 grit to speed things up, but it's going to be a loooong haul. Fortunately I have a helper.

View attachment 623600
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When I did a 10" radius on the maple board for the axe bass, I remember it took over an hour. My arms still ache. I can see why people use a router and jig. I'm too afraid of tearout to use the router, but what a work saver it must be.
 
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#114
mapleglo said:
When I did a 10" radius on the maple board for the axe bass, I remember it took over an hour. My arms still ache. I can see why people use a router and jig. I'm too afraid of tearout to use the router, but what a work saver it must be.
Click to expand...
How many sheets of sandpaper did you go through? Mine's getting easten alive. ;)
 
#117
I am going to need to sand the figured maple board down rather than sending it off to someplace like LMII, or using a router jig, due to the huge risk of tear out on the highly figured maple. Though I have not been at it for a steady hour, it's still so disheartening to see so little progress after such an amount of effort. I estimate I am maybe 1/3" of the way done. I am hoping the maple goes faster as it's obviously a softer wood than the oak I am using. I suspect it's a soft maple species, and we will need to epoxy it to hold up under strings, but perhaps the radius process will be faster.

;)
 
#119
scottyd said:
Great work! As a rule of thumb on radius cuts I start with 35 grit automotive paper, it'll knock down the edges very quickly, then simply progress finer. I've done a 7.5 before for a customer it felt nice.
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Thanks! I may have to give that a try...I can always use more sandpaper, just like I can always use more clamps. ;)
 
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