Michael Tobias and Rodger Sadowsky on their dual truss rods. The whole video is great, but this bit of the conversation rings very true.
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Michael Tobias and Rodger Sadowsky on their dual truss rods. The whole video is great, but this bit of the conversation rings very true.
I’ve never adjusted my ‘72 rods. I’ve had it since 1973-74It's quite funny to see experienced luthiers griping about the Rick Truss Rods. They are completely wrong though! The Rods work just fine. Any thin-walled socket will easily fit on the nuts. Once adjusted, My Ricks are completely stable…sometimes for decades.
I 100% believe that and have similar experience. My one Rick got some adjustment when I tried LaBella LTFs. I simply backed them off a little with absolutely zero issues. I then decided to go back to rounds and adjusted them again. It's so simple and such B/S to hear others Whine about it. Simply just not true!I’ve never adjusted my ‘72 rods. I’ve had it since 1973-74
As someone who has worked on many Rics over my career, I have to agree with much of what is stated here. Ric enthusiasts are willing to overlook these shortcomings because they like the look, feel and/or sound of the instrument. For my part I dislike the look, feel and sound, but that's immaterial. As a technician, the design points and manufacture are exceedingly important, and IMO both fall short of acceptable for an instrument in that price range. And for my part, I won't work on Ric's any more. I am not able to bring a Ric up to the standards I maintain for quality instruments. I agree with Dave from Dave's World of Fun stuff - he is not afraid to give voice to what I and a lot of other techs think of Rics.I've been working on Rickenbacker basses for almost a half-Century. In that time, every time one is on my bench, a quote from the Late Greg Lake always comes to mind. When asked by progressive rock fans why he didn't play Ricks- he said something to the effect of 'Rickenbacker basses are wildly inconsistent.' I have seen the same old-same old issues from them. ONLY RECENTLY, has Rickenbacker decided to make the right modifications to their 4001-4003 series, that all of us techs have been poking them with voodoo needles for decades to adopt. Firstly, is the stupid dual truss rod system. I just did a truss rod replacement on a 1970's 4000 single pickup bass. The owner tried to pull out the rods that had stripped ends while the rods were under tension. The results? A broken neck/ headstock volute area. After managing to get the nut off each rod, I discovered that the rods were epoxied to the bearing plate/ block. More fun. When I got the factory rods out.. I was stunned, but not surprised at just how awful they are. They flexed in all directions in my hands, and had no real strength at all. I repaired the break, then installed the new rods and a hand made aluminum bearing block. He bough a custom set made by a Rick specialist, and they are a big improvement. To me, a dual rod system, just doesn't really work. When you adjust one side, it HAS to, and does affect the other side of the neck. Guild 12 strings- same thing. Luthiers know this simple fact. The intrinsic stiffness of the WOOD billet used to make a neck, is important. A good piece of maple, one GOOD double acting rod, like a Stew Mac 'Hot Rod' for instance, removing a much smaller amount of wood from the center of the neck- results in an easier to adjust, stronger, and longer lasting neck and a better sounding instrument. The new bridge design, is also a big reason to buy a newer one, if you're looking for a Rick. I looked at a lefty fireglow one a few years ago, and didn't buy it- because it had an obvious finish repair. For a factory new bass costing 2K+ that's not cool.
Something many bassists don't know... and after comparing these instruments for a long time, I've discovered that the body shapes, are NOT identical throughout the years. Headstocks varied, as well. Even scale lengths vary. I have a template from a 2016 4003S. I put it against a 1978 4001, and the 4000 I just worked on. They did not match it at all.
EDIT: Before and after on the 4000 rod replacement. The bearing block had to be cut in half to remove it, and the rods. After, the new rods and bearing block.
I completely disagree! I will work on Ricks all day long. I also work on my own BMWs and Mercedes yet many Mechanics run away from them too.As someone who has worked on many Rics over my career, I have to agree with much of what is stated here. Ric enthusiasts are willing to overlook these shortcomings because they like the look, feel and/or sound of the instrument. For my part I dislike the look, feel and sound, but that's immaterial. As a technician, the design points and manufacture are exceedingly important, and IMO both fall short of acceptable for an instrument in that price range. And for my part, I won't work on Ric's any more. I am not able to bring a Ric up to the standards I maintain for quality instruments. I agree with Dave from Dave's World of Fun stuff - he is not afraid to give voice to what I and a lot of other techs think of Rics.
It's quite funny to see experienced luthiers griping about the Rick Truss Rods. They are completely wrong though! The Rods work just fine. Any thin-walled socket will easily fit on the nuts. Once adjusted, My Ricks are completely stable…sometimes for decades.
The problems mentioned are not even real. Use the right 1/4” socket and truss rod adjustment is simple. Maybe someone jammed a fat socket in there and bent the end of the rods but that’s operator error and abuse. 1 out of 1000 tail lifts actually cause a problem or move past a tiny little amount.YOUR Ricks may be ok. That doesn't mean ALL Ricks are ok. I've worked on lots of Ricks and the problem mentioned in the video is VERY common. As is tail lift, twisted necks, problems with the binding, problems with the finish... Finding a really great Rick is possible but there are FAR too many poor ones out there for an instrument in this price range.
The problems mentioned are not even real. Use the right 1/4” socket and truss rod adjustment is simple. Maybe someone jammed a fat socket in there and bent the end of the rods but that’s operator error and abuse. 1 out of 1000 tail lifts actually cause a problem or move past a tiny little amount.
If someone bent truss rods then sell the customer a replacement job. Just don’t blame a RIC for operator abuse. Just like Maxed out Fender truss rods. That’s 99% operator abuse.
I think that BMW's and Mercedes are well-engineered machines. I cannot say that about Rics.I completely disagree! I will work on Ricks all day long. I also work on my own BMWs and Mercedes yet many Mechanics run away from them too.
In fact: I won't let other people work on my Basses or Cars!
Any thin-walled socket will work until the end of the truss rod bends, then you can't get any socket on there. About 50% of the Rics I have worked on had that problem.It's quite funny to see experienced luthiers griping about the Rick Truss Rods. They are completely wrong though! The Rods work just fine. Any thin-walled socket will easily fit on the nuts. Once adjusted, My Ricks are completely stable…sometimes for decades.
The bent truss rod problem is not the result of someone using the wrong sized wrench, it's a function of the design. The end of the rod without the threads is pushing the terminator block out at the top while the threaded end is pulling it in at the bottom. Because the rod is so small it bends at the block:The problems mentioned are not even real. Use the right 1/4” socket and truss rod adjustment is simple. Maybe someone jammed a fat socket in there and bent the end of the rods but that’s operator error and abuse. 1 out of 1000 tail lifts actually cause a problem or move past a tiny little amount.
If someone bent truss rods then sell the customer a replacement job. Just don’t blame a RIC for operator abuse. Just like Maxed out Fender truss rods. That’s 99% operator abuse.
And people still insist on having their 40-year-old Ric serviced. What are they thinking?Interesting that people are complaining about "bent truss rod problems" 40 years after Rickenbacker changed over to compression rods. Yeah, that's right, that style of truss rod was phased out over 40 years ago. For goodness sake.
Well this is Talk Bass...
Pretty much everything negative (and positive) said here about Rics is true at least on some basses, which makes you wonder why people buy them: THAT TONE. I can get a close emulation with other basses, but nothing else really sounds like a Ric. Ive yet to own a "perfect" bass, but people put up with all kinds of idiosyncracies in other brands without blinking an eye. Ric has certainly earned some of its bad rap from people who have reason to know: the techs who work on them, and Owners on the losing end of their atrocious warranty policies. Every brand also has its fanbois and haters, I'd say Im in neither camp. Its an inconsistently fabulous bass that's had some long term and very well known issues the company has ignored or stonewalled on, which I think explains the hater contingent. If you want to understand the fanboi point of view, just play one! They either work for you or they don't, ergonomics was a distant consideration at best in the original design. Having owned one for a while, Im as aware of the pros and cons as anyone, and opted to build my own to fix some of the more blatant issues, and so I wouldnt have to deal with a company with such a richly deserved reputation for CS that was excrable at worst and indifferent at best. I can walk and chew gum simultaneously, and it's possible to love a particular bass and still be honest about its shortcomings.