No, I believe the horseshoe is only about 7.4 K, while the Hi Gain is 11 K or so. Also, the Hi Gain has more register on the treble than the horseshoe. You can get more info about this on the RickResource Forum and the Rickenbacker Forum, of which I was once a member but not anymore, just a lurker now.
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Rickenbacker
- Thread starter nanook
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No, I believe the horseshoe is only about 7.4 K, while the Hi Gain is 11 K or so. Also, the Hi Gain has more register on the treble than the horseshoe. You can get more info about this on the RickResource Forum and the Rickenbacker Forum, of which I was once a member but not anymore, just a lurker now.
Well thanks, you made me convinced that the C64 is not worth it XD
I'll save my money for a Blueburst
If you're looking for more volume, I guess a horseshoe wouldn't be your preference, but it works for me, and I play any genre from 50s to present and my bass sounds great, it's all about blending the tone and volume of both pickups. Having them both on more than compensates for what I need. I can switch from a Hofner-sounding Beatles song to an Earth Wind and Fire funk at the flip of the toggle switch, no sweat, something Hi Gains can't easily do as they're almost all treble to begin with.
I've got other ways to make the Rick have more low endI usually keep the neck volume rolled off a bit and the bridge on full. That's what a Rick is all about! :]
I removed the .0047 capacitor. I have all the low end I'll ever need
I removed the .0047 capacitor. I have all the low end I'll ever need
Hm if i was a beatle's fan, i wouldn't have removed that! lol I can get a nice Norgwian wood tone when i turn it on my Rick :]
On the contrary, Paul had his .0047 cap removed from his original 4001S. Rickenbacker only included it in the C64 and the old PMC because it was there originally to begin with, but Paul never used it, had it removed or bypassed plus had flat strings so he retained the rounder, woodier sound he was used to.
Ohh interestingI'll post a soundclip of my verison tonight ;P
Great! Looking forward to hearing your bass. It's a 4003, isn't it? I'd love to have had one if not for the binding. That's one thing that helped me decide I wanted the 4001C64, because I didn't like the binding, too sharp on the corners, or at least on the one I tried. The C64 has no binding, only smooth rounded corners so much more comfortable on the resting arm.
they have a 4003s model, with no binding
The first part is with the 4001 cap, then goes into the 4003. Not the best quality of recording and the timing is a tad fast ;P
I like the 4003 sound without the cap. My C64 sounded thin before, but without the .0047 capacitor, it sounds like that second part of your mp3.
I don't think they make 4003s anymore, they don't have it on their website as a current model.
Hard to find. Anyway, I'm happy with my C64, and I'm not looking to buy anything anymore.
Someone was asking about string gauges, and if they could go heavier. Someone else said they changed theirs over to
B-E-A-D. I'm not sure if it was in the manual, or some other literature I had, but because of the dual truss rods, Rickenbacker said that you should never use anything heavier than 100's, or it could cause irrepairable neck damage. If you're running heavy strings, you might want to think twice.
I don't think that you need do anything to go from flats to roundwounds, though. I think I might have touched up the tonation a little, but other than that, it was just plug and play.
I use my Rick-O-Sound, all the time. I have two combo amps - a Roland Spirit 30W (great onboard electronics/effects) and a Roland BN-60 60W (lots of bass, but awful electronics). So, I use a standard stereo cable, and run the treble through the 30W and the bass through the 60W. I tweak the 30W to scream, and the 60W for just as much clean bottom end that I can get, and balance the volume between the two, and it sounds awesome.
Hope this helps. hrb
B-E-A-D. I'm not sure if it was in the manual, or some other literature I had, but because of the dual truss rods, Rickenbacker said that you should never use anything heavier than 100's, or it could cause irrepairable neck damage. If you're running heavy strings, you might want to think twice.
I don't think that you need do anything to go from flats to roundwounds, though. I think I might have touched up the tonation a little, but other than that, it was just plug and play.
I use my Rick-O-Sound, all the time. I have two combo amps - a Roland Spirit 30W (great onboard electronics/effects) and a Roland BN-60 60W (lots of bass, but awful electronics). So, I use a standard stereo cable, and run the treble through the 30W and the bass through the 60W. I tweak the 30W to scream, and the 60W for just as much clean bottom end that I can get, and balance the volume between the two, and it sounds awesome.
Hope this helps. hrb
Ok...
BUT,
If I want to play in C-standard, how do I do that? I need heavy gauge strings otherwise it's going to be fretbuzz hell.
From what I've see & heard...
I would NEVER put heavy gauge strings on my C64 models as the necks are thin and the non-S model (sanded down version, original spec, or close to it) has the bridge that doen't have the extra screws which secure it to the body. The bridge on mine is already lifting (2005 model year) and I have the factory strings still on it (shows you how much I play it). The S model at least has the two additional hold down screws, but, look out for that thin neck!!!
The same is true regarding the Chris Squire model; thin neck but has the two-extra screw bridge.
My 5-string has 40-60-80-100-120 DR Hi-Beams. I'd never put a 130 B-string on it for fear the neck might... It has the 4-extra string bringe, which eliminates tail-lift, but the neck is suseptable to bowin I feel if strung with heavy gauge strings.
The newer 4003 models, however, have a nich thick beefy neck. At least the ones produced in Jan of this year. I've read somewhere here in TB, from Rick5 I believe, that Rickenbacker has gone back to using a 2-piece laminated thinner neck. Anyway the thicker, beefier neck I'm sure will withstand the heavier gauge strings.
Will I try it? Probably not, mainly because I'm satisfied with what I get from the factory strings, or D'Addario EXL 170 Nickel Wound 45-65-80-100 gauge strings, which is what I have on my CS.
And yes, there is still tail lift on the newer models so I'm not sure how much that condition might be exasperatedby using heavier strings.
There may be exceptions to the rule, so I'd proceed with caution.
I love my Ricks, but they aren't the most robust instruments around and do suffer from several design flaws. So I live with it. No big deal.
Now if I could only scrape up $5,000.00 for that insainly OVERPRICED V63 Sea Foam Green Rick!
I would NEVER put heavy gauge strings on my C64 models as the necks are thin and the non-S model (sanded down version, original spec, or close to it) has the bridge that doen't have the extra screws which secure it to the body. The bridge on mine is already lifting (2005 model year) and I have the factory strings still on it (shows you how much I play it). The S model at least has the two additional hold down screws, but, look out for that thin neck!!!
The same is true regarding the Chris Squire model; thin neck but has the two-extra screw bridge.
My 5-string has 40-60-80-100-120 DR Hi-Beams. I'd never put a 130 B-string on it for fear the neck might... It has the 4-extra string bringe, which eliminates tail-lift, but the neck is suseptable to bowin I feel if strung with heavy gauge strings.
The newer 4003 models, however, have a nich thick beefy neck. At least the ones produced in Jan of this year. I've read somewhere here in TB, from Rick5 I believe, that Rickenbacker has gone back to using a 2-piece laminated thinner neck. Anyway the thicker, beefier neck I'm sure will withstand the heavier gauge strings.
Will I try it? Probably not, mainly because I'm satisfied with what I get from the factory strings, or D'Addario EXL 170 Nickel Wound 45-65-80-100 gauge strings, which is what I have on my CS.
And yes, there is still tail lift on the newer models so I'm not sure how much that condition might be exasperatedby using heavier strings.
There may be exceptions to the rule, so I'd proceed with caution.
I love my Ricks, but they aren't the most robust instruments around and do suffer from several design flaws. So I live with it. No big deal.
Now if I could only scrape up $5,000.00 for that insainly OVERPRICED V63 Sea Foam Green Rick!
I play in D-standard and occacionallu standard E with 105-45. I don't see any problem using a heavier string set because lowering the overall tuning compensates the increased string tension. You just might need to file the nut to get those bigger wires to fit those tiny tracks. I think 110-50 would be ideal for D-tuning and might work also in C.
E: And the bass is one of those beefy necked 4003.
