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Ric's Position On Their Bridges??

Ah, you beat me to it. I don't know why this adjustment technique remains so unknown, as it's been the case with Fenders since the 50's. Guitar mythology has the persistence of mustard gas, evidently.

It's not exactly intuitive as far as how that truss rod nut is supposed to be used, so I understand why people don't "get it". Leo came up with the two flat head slots that cross over each other for ease of adjustment. He just didn't make it widely known that it's that way for a reason.
 
A very narrow flat head screw driver that grabs one corner of the truss rod nut with the plus sign shape (many people think it's designed for use with a phillips head, but it's not. Flat head is what Leo was thinking). I can get a quarter turn at a time without touching anything but the truss rod nut.

Yeah, this. I have known this for years. Just was intuitive to me.
 
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A very narrow flat head screw driver that grabs one corner of the truss rod nut with the plus sign shape (many people think it's designed for use with a phillips head, but it's not. Flat head is what Leo was thinking). I can get a quarter turn at a time without touching anything but the truss rod nut.

I'm talking about a truss rod with a hex key nut. Unless you use a screwdriver for that & wallow it out.
 
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For that type, you use the T bar type hex key that should come with the bass. They have a ball end that you angle in the slot, and the pick guard has plenty of room to get it in there without messing up the pick guard.

I've got one & I cannot apply enough torque with the ball end of the hex. It's also tough to tell how much I've turned it when the wrench is @ a 45° angle.

Noy to mention, I nearly always have to shim the neck of my Fender basses to get the action right, which places the truss rod nut even a little bit further away from the body.

But, thankfully, like a Rickenbacker bridge these are both adjustments that you aren't often required to make.
 
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Once devised a simple fix for a problematic carburetor air leak. I posted the fix on the manufacturers message board and it quickly became SOP for current and new owners who wanted problem free performance. The manufacturer had always insisted it was not their problem. In one of those discussions with a rep, i asked why the fix was an obvious solution to a manufacturers defect and his reply was anyone who couldn't tune the carb in stock form simply could not read and follow written instructions. Oddly enough, when the engine with the wonky carb was updated, the carb problem was addressed but never acknowledged as an upgrade or improvement. Anyone who mentioned this on the company message board had their message removed right away.

Ric's policy of denying any issues is neither unique or new. Corporate denial in protection of image or bottom line has been in common usage long before the White Star line tried to blame their captian for an unsinkable ship going down.
 
I recently purchased my first Ric, a new 4003 Maple Glo built in 2014.
After a complete set-up by my tech I can honestly say that I really like it.
I don't really find anything "sucky" about the bridge but know that the majority of Ric players prefer to change them out. e.g. Hipshots.

Since this mod appears to be very popular and comments from owners regarding their bridges are by-in-large negative, I was curious as to Rickenbacker's comments/position on this perception.
I would have thought if they are so disliked that the company would at least somewhat address this with an updated version of their bridge.

I'm hoping that a rep from Ric may see this post and offer to comment.

Thanks,

They redesigned the bridge 15 or 20 years ago ... but never implemented the new design ... they kept it the way it is because that is what the consumers want ... that is why the 4003 models are a lot more popular than the 4004 models ... Also they addressed the pull up problem back in the 80s with 2 extra screws ... again the consumers hated that design change ...

Sooo ... a lot of the Rickenbacker flaws and quirks are driven by what people will buy ... Rickenbacker is making the products that sell
 
I recently purchased my first Ric, a new 4003 Maple Glo built in 2014.
After a complete set-up by my tech I can honestly say that I really like it.
I don't really find anything "sucky" about the bridge but know that the majority of Ric players prefer to change them out. e.g. Hipshots.

Since this mod appears to be very popular and comments from owners regarding their bridges are by-in-large negative, I was curious as to Rickenbacker's comments/position on this perception.
I would have thought if they are so disliked that the company would at least somewhat address this with an updated version of their bridge.

I'm hoping that a rep from Ric may see this post and offer to comment.

Thanks,

I just bought my first (and probably last) Ric (purchased here on TB). It's an essentially brand new 2016 4003S that was either never played or very babied. It is absolutely gorgeous, and sounds pretty good. The action is fantastic - I really love the way the neck feels. It's very smooth and comfortable - I could play it all day. It was already set up pretty nice when I got it, but I dialed in the truss rods to get the action even a hair lower, and even across the strings, and now it's perfect.

So why am I posting here? THE BRIDGE! First of all, the floating bridge - the piece with the saddles attached to it - looks like a cheap piece of Chinese potmetal on the underside. The top looks beautiful, but underneath, you can tell it's a fairly cheap casting. How do I know this? Why did I take it off? Because I could not play the bass unplugged because the vibrations in the bridge were driving me NUTS. Even with the bass plugged in, unless I really crank the amp way up, the buzzing vibration sounds was extremely audible and highly annoying. It sounded like a spring vibrating. It took a while to figure it out, but I finally realized that it was the saddles moving around on the A and D strings. The issue is that the saddles are flat on the bottom, and they are "high-centered" on the bridge. So they are making contact with the bridge only in the very center of the saddle, and not on the edges. Therefore, they are free to rock back and forth like a see-saw. Once I realized that was what was happening, I called Ric to discuss the issue.

The gentleman who answered the phone was extremely nice and professional and said he knew right away what the problem was. He said the saddle had come off the intonation screw and I needed to turn the screw one way or the other to get it back on. I said I highly doubted that was it since the screw was doing its job setting the intonation so it seemed connected but he swore that was it. He said if that didn't fix it, I could send the entire bass back in for a warranty repair. (Yes, it has to be the entire bass.) He told me how to take the bridge off and look under there. So after I got off the phone with him, I did that. The saddles were all installed just fine onto their screws. The issue is strictly due to having a flatbottomed saddle sitting on top of a curved surface. Of course it's going to rock around. How could it not? I tried my best using Microsoft Paint to create a crude drawing showing the issue. The big gaps between the bottom of the saddles and the top of the bridge are shown by the four red arrows. Those are the places where I put some shims.

Thankfully, I was able to fix the issue - two ways.

Method 1: I did a temporary fix by cutting some 3/16" wide strips of a heavy, thick glossy business card and slipping two strips under the A string saddle, one on each side, and one strip under the D string saddle on one side. The issue on the D string wasn't as bad, so I couldn't fit the business card under the other side. But a sheet of office paper did still fit under there, so I stuck the paper under there. Voila - problem solved!! The vibration is gone, and now the bass is a pleasure to play. What did this do to my tone? I don't know. The bass has flatwounds on it, so it's not super lively anyway. But my instincts say that having paper between the saddle and bridge might dampen some resonance that would otherwise transfer through from the string to the body. Then again, the paper took the place of air, which wasn't transmitting any resonance either!

Bridge.jpg


Method 2: I spotted an ad for a Hipshot bridge (and Drop D tuner) here on the TB classifieds, and immediately jumped on it. So the permanent fix will be installed next week. Hopefully I have good luck with the new bridge.

The stock bridge looks very cool. I found it perfectly serviceable to intonate the bass. I'm not sure if it was a design flaw or a manufacturing flaw that caused mine to vibrate so much. Either way, the problem turned out to be easy enough to fix by slipping the shims under the side of the saddles. But for the kind of money these things sell for, it doesn't seem like this sort of a workaround should be needed.

I do like the bass a lot. I've wanted one for about 40 years, so it's nice to fulfill that dream. I look forward to putting some roundwound strings on it to hear what it can really do. I don't predict I'll be getting another one though. Unless maybe it's an older one in really great condition that doesn't have any such issues. In hindsight, if I had gotten a chance to play this one in person before buying it, I probably wouldn't have bought it, because the buzzing would have been a showstopper for me since I didn't know what it was caused by.
 
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Harley owners must be at least as "dedicated" as Rick owners. If Harley Davidson can update their engines—belt drive, for example—and still sell as many as they can make, RIC could probably get away with minor updates to their instruments, too.

I'm a long time Harley owner - my 4th one is out in the garage, and it's 11 year's old - and I agree with you; basically. The difference between Harley and Rickenbacker, though, is that government regulations are forcing Harley to "upgrade", whether they and their customers want them to or not. Witness their slow creep into the world of water-cooling... lots of muttering about that at my favorite Harley dealer's... I have 3 Ricks, too. They have made changes and "upgrades" over the years (though I, personally, don't consider their replacing the Hairpin truss rods an upgrade), but unlike vehicle manufacturers, RIC doesn't have to answer to The Man. They only have to listen to market pressure. And, regardless of how much we complain here on TB, the fact is - what market pressure there is, is "Don't change a Frickin' thing". Rick made the 4004 to answer "all" the complaints... have you ever actually seen one? I never have, and neither has the Rick dealer here - ever. I'll believe people who say they have one, but... their scarcity is indicative of what little real pressure for change there actually is... And, for the record, the bridges on my 4001 and 4003 work just fine (the 330's bridge doesn't count). The mutes work really wall, too...;)
 
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The Ric bridge is a famously wonky hood-ornament with some minor but annoying design flaws that could be easily fixed by any competent engineer or machinist, but never will be as long as customer complaints can be safely ignored. The Hipshot isn’t perfect either, which is aggravating for such a fundamentally simple device. You may not be able to get the action as low with the Hipshot. I tend to set and forget with bridges, but buzzing saddles would drive me nuts.
 
I bought the hipshot and found it unstable. The saddles on the higher strings had a tendency to flip over when I dig in to the strings. I swapped back to the original. I guess experiences vary because I have never heard anyone else complain about this particular problem.
I had the same issue with the Hipshot, the saddles would move and create a weird sound. I used a schaller bridge for a long time which was mounted on top of an acrylic piece to cover the rics' cavity and it sounded really good. I then went back to the original ric bridge. I did like the individual string height adjustments I could make using the schaller high mass bridge though
Schaller.jpg