I have been to a lot of concerts this summer where a passive 4 string Precesion bass was played and sounded really good. I've debated a Precision for a while. I have a passive G&L JB-2 that I like the sound of, but, much as I try to convince myself that I'm Pino or Jamareo, I really like use and "need" that B string. I have the G&L string with TI flats for my "jazz combo" gigs and it's great for that.
Never heard a passive B string I like, but again, I figure if anyone will have a good one it would be Roscoe. So I'm thinking if I'm gonna try a passive bass, it should be a Roscoe, probably a 5 string and probably a PJ model. Why stray from what I love.
The last thing in my debate with myself is active or active/passive. I have my Century 5 (soaps) and Century 6 (jazz) with Bart pre so I guess I have the active part covered. Still, the A/P option is tempting. For those who have either/both versions, what are the trade offs, benefits, etc.
If it were you, what would you choose?
As far as Roscoes go, I only have my Century 6j. But I have had a ton of basses with active/passive capability. With all the controls set flat, even the most "transparent" or "flat" preamps sound different when the switch is kicked on. Not better or worse. But every one I have experienced, there is an ever-so-slight widening of both the high and low frequency reach. Kind of like the response curve of the bass gets lengthened both ways. And a very slight dip in the mids (actually, to my ears, it sounds like the mid hump in passive gets controlled and flattened a little). There is also usually a tiny bit of compressed feeling. Passive is more raw, active is more refined, even when the output level is matched. It could be that the signal travels a couple inches before it hits a preamp in active mode, rather than 10+feet in active mode.
I like having the option. Usually a passive option includes a passive tone control. I tend to cut highs, and I like a tone rolloff more than active high cut, especially on a P-bass. Also, it's a one second temporary fix if something in the electronics or battery goes bad during a set. If you don't have a 2 minute break, it saves the gig.
With all bass builds or upgrades, I go straight to the Nordstrand 3 band. I almost did it to my Century, but it is so ferocious sounding with the Bart 3 band pre, I don't want to mess with it.
I would definitely get a Roscoe 5 string classic. You can't go wrong. Passive is great for thump, and so many preamps have that option these days.
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