I’ve never felt the difference (when standing and playing with strap) between the longer upper horn on a Centry, SKB or LG Roscoe. However, I recently purchased a Spector USA and the upper horn is approximately 1 fret shorter than my LG and at rehearsal a couple weeks ago I was shocked at how far away the 1st fret felt! I guess that I reach the point that tipped the scales. I adjusted but I definitely prefer the upper horn (and strap button) to extend a bit farther than what the Spector does. Just one fret further would make a big difference (13th verses 14th).
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Another thing with Spectors is how far into the body the bridge is. I had a 4 string (korean made) in high school and loved that bass (back when I only had one bass- how ever did I survive?

), got a US made Forte 5 several years ago, but ended up selling it as I was always playing it about 2 frets sharp when I wasn’t looking at it. That bass was heavy- all maple (with a pau ferro ‘board that was like a piece of chocolate), but I didn’t mind it (at the time).
Conversely, now I have an F Bass BN5 (which I LOVE), where the upper horn is at the about the 11th fret, but with the 34.5” scale, I don’t have any issues with it, first position is surprisingly easy to reach (playing the right note, at the right time, however

).
I’m with Steve, the Century body shape works the best for me. My favorite visually is the SKB, but looks aren’t everything

And weight, balance and playability all trump tone for me. There’s a lot you can do to male a bass sound better (although that in itself can become an endless quest with diminishing returns), but if it’s a boat anchor and isn’t fun to play, it’s not going to get any playing time from me.
Also, I forgot to post this last night while talking about that Roscoe classic
I personally think they should have done this with a Stingray, and not a Lakland because of the positioning and lack of splitting, but no one consulted me
Ya'll know there is a reach reducing pin, right? I first saw them used on Dingwalls.
Some dingwalls also have a recessed straplok (dunlop) on the back of the bass, not sure how that’d work for smaller bodied roscoes though