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Roscoe Club

Concur with all points/suggestions, adding good balance on strap, or without as an additional element.
I couldn’t agree more. I spend a fair amount of time sitting at my computer playing, whether I’m recording, going through lessons or learning new material. But when I’m working up a set list I do that standing since that’s how it’s going to get played.
 
I couldn’t agree more. I spend a fair amount of time sitting at my computer playing, whether I’m recording, going through lessons or learning new material. But when I’m working up a set list I do that standing since that’s how it’s going to get played.

I’ve never felt the difference (when standing and playing with a strap) between the longer upper horn on a Century, SKB or LG Roscoe. However, I recently purchased a Spector USA and the upper horn is approximately 1 fret shorter than my LG and at rehearsal a couple weeks ago I was shocked at how far away the 1st fret felt! I guess that I reach the point that tipped the scales. I adjusted but I definitely prefer the upper horn (and strap button) to extend a bit farther than what the Spector does. Just one fret further would make a big difference (13th verses 14th).

78EE12E0-85A9-4A26-8690-FFB634EDAD45.jpeg
 
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I feel the same about Century and LG/SKB. It’s minimal, maybe a fret, but the Century feels better. My first was an SKB and O always felt like I was reaching for the 1st fret. If I hadn’t tried a Century, I probably wouldn’t be plying Roscoe.
 
I’ve never felt the difference (when standing and playing with strap) between the longer upper horn on a Centry, SKB or LG Roscoe. However, I recently purchased a Spector USA and the upper horn is approximately 1 fret shorter than my LG and at rehearsal a couple weeks ago I was shocked at how far away the 1st fret felt! I guess that I reach the point that tipped the scales. I adjusted but I definitely prefer the upper horn (and strap button) to extend a bit farther than what the Spector does. Just one fret further would make a big difference (13th verses 14th).

View attachment 4705695
Another thing with Spectors is how far into the body the bridge is. I had a 4 string (korean made) in high school and loved that bass (back when I only had one bass- how ever did I survive? :laugh: ), got a US made Forte 5 several years ago, but ended up selling it as I was always playing it about 2 frets sharp when I wasn’t looking at it. That bass was heavy- all maple (with a pau ferro ‘board that was like a piece of chocolate), but I didn’t mind it (at the time).

0018BC40-1ACE-4432-8DF9-4EC5C8FC635B.jpeg


Conversely, now I have an F Bass BN5 (which I LOVE), where the upper horn is at the about the 11th fret, but with the 34.5” scale, I don’t have any issues with it, first position is surprisingly easy to reach (playing the right note, at the right time, however ;)).

2C3F35AC-0602-4BE9-9611-B764AA24AA7E.jpeg


I’m with Steve, the Century body shape works the best for me. My favorite visually is the SKB, but looks aren’t everything ;) And weight, balance and playability all trump tone for me. There’s a lot you can do to male a bass sound better (although that in itself can become an endless quest with diminishing returns), but if it’s a boat anchor and isn’t fun to play, it’s not going to get any playing time from me.

Also, I forgot to post this last night while talking about that Roscoe classic



I personally think they should have done this with a Stingray, and not a Lakland because of the positioning and lack of splitting, but no one consulted me :D

Ya'll know there is a reach reducing pin, right? I first saw them used on Dingwalls.

Some dingwalls also have a recessed straplok (dunlop) on the back of the bass, not sure how that’d work for smaller bodied roscoes though

8C03B51B-A6B5-4137-8C9A-35767F8AFF7C.jpeg
 
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I’ve never felt the difference (when standing and playing with strap) between the longer upper horn on a Centry, SKB or LG Roscoe. However, I recently purchased a Spector USA and the upper horn is approximately 1 fret shorter than my LG and at rehearsal a couple weeks ago I was shocked at how far away the 1st fret felt! I guess that I reach the point that tipped the scales. I adjusted but I definitely prefer the upper horn (and strap button) to extend a bit farther than what the Spector does. Just one fret further would make a big difference (13th verses 14th).

View attachment 4705695

Joe, I thought your gas was gone once you got that Fedora?
 
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I thought you were done with 5’s? Now I see where Steve C gets it from ;)

Actually, with the Fodera 4, the other 4’s pretty much stay in their case (although the P-bass with flats gets the nod this Sunday). So, the search for the perfect 5 continues!
Got to have one to use at church. The low B is a must at church.
 
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Got an LG back in the house - a flame maple cherry burst LG 3005 with what I think is spanish cedar body and a maple/purpleheart neck, BEM board. This is a great dark, growly bass with the Roscoe barts! It took a setup great, too.

New Roscoe family pictures in the order that I think I bought them in:
20220530_163320.jpg
20220530_163358.jpg
 
Ya'll know there is a reach reducing pin, right? I first saw them used on Dingwalls.

Tell me more please!

Got an LG back in the house - a flame maple cherry burst LG 3005 with what I think is spanish cedar body and a maple/purpleheart neck, BEM board. This is a great dark, growly bass with the Roscoe barts! It took a setup great, too.

New Roscoe family pictures in the order that I think I bought them in:
View attachment 4706153 View attachment 4706154

Oh that makes me want to do a family photo shoot lol.
 
Ya'll know there is a reach reducing pin, right? I first saw them used on Dingwalls.

Some dingwalls also have a recessed straplok (dunlop) on the back of the bass, not sure how that’d work for smaller bodied roscoes though
View attachment 4705756

Tell me more please!

Had me really curious too Scott, so I did a little research. Here's a post talking about it ...... and Matts pic of the rear of the Dingwall shows it really well.

dingwall rear.jpeg


Dingwall calls it a "Reach Reducing Pin". A dunlop strap lock recessed flush into the back of the bass, along the neck line, about 2" or so in from the bottom end of the bass.

I tried to lift a photo out of the Dingwall owners thread, but no luck. You can find pictures if you search the key words in that thread.

Some folks find the reach to the nut on the longscale Dingwalls a bit long, so Dingwall came up with an elegant solution. A couple of guys have liked it enough to retro fit other basses. You'll also notice that the end pin on the Dingwalls is not dead center like most bass manufactures place their strap buttons. (you know, right where it gets pounded into the bottom of the bass every time you set it down) I don't think Sheldon Dingwall can resist taking a fresh look at any part of bass design.

My Dingwall doesn't have this feature, but I'm sometimes pushing the bass further to my left to reach highest frets, so where it hangs on the normal rear strap button is fine. I don't find the nut a long reach but I do notice the spread in first position with the long scale. The multi scale concept reaches the most radical slant on the frets at either end of the neck where both the nut and the bridge are slanted. I tend to wear the Dingwall six string a little on the high side to be able to slap and chord, and reach around the very comfortable but wide (it is a sixer) neck.

I thought the reach reducing pin idea might help our OP bring the nut closer, but it sound like he might like just the reverse.

Apparently Dingwall just installs an additional recessed Dunlop strap receiver (in just the right place) in the back of the body to bring the nut a bit closer to your body when strapped up (you use it instead of the standard one mounted in the end of the body).
 
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