They use wax? I thought it wows more of a liquid? I’m trying to remember back 10 years ago when I picked out the top, Keith rubbed a little “oil” for lack of a better word on the roughed out top that was “laying around” the shop to show me how it would look finished.
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Roscoe Club
- Thread starter JOME77
- Start date
mineral oil will bring out the grain for a quick visualisation but it's not a permanent finish.
- Apr 1, 2000
- 17,398
- 9,830
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Roscoe Guitars, DR Strings, Aguilar Amplification
Roscoe does NOT use wax on their oil finished basses - it's a much harder compound. Gard sent me some years ago to maintain my redwood topped Standard Plus.
Maybe that’s what he used to show me. So how long does the mineral oil “look” last? Is the oil better for keeping it from drying out? I’ve thought about asking Keith if I could send it in and have them do a standard sprayed on lacquers finish so it would have that “wet look” all the time and just be done.
i think i misspoke when i typed that anyway... Now that i think back on it, i am remembering a post when mineral -spirits- (i.e. paint thinner) was used for a quick peek at the 'real' grain. not mineral oil, which works fine for preserving butcher blocks and such...
i have nothing to add on the rest, as i have no first-hand knowledge, sorry... all my Roscoes came gloss-finished as spec'd by prior owners...
It was probably a spray of methylated spirits (alcohol) to wet down the wood and quickly show the finished look of the grain of the figured top. It shows the depth and colour then quickly dries.
The best stuff for an actual oil finish I’ve used, like Nightman mentioned is the Ken Smith stuff. Nice and thin enough to pop the grain, leaves a slick look after it’s buffed off.
The best stuff for an actual oil finish I’ve used, like Nightman mentioned is the Ken Smith stuff. Nice and thin enough to pop the grain, leaves a slick look after it’s buffed off.
Many Luthiers on TB also use Tru-Oil gun stock finish which is hard protection and glossy.
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Wyn recommends "Antiquax" for maintaining their oil/wax finishes. I do not have an oil finished Roscoe, so I can't be sure it's the same type of finish -- but the Antiquax definitely looks nice on the Wyn. I apply it each time I change strings That's only twice so far, but the previous owner had clearly not done this maintenance, so I can see a nice improvement after the second application.
I think my top would look amazing with the gloss finish. Just not sure if the cost/hassle would be worth it. My reference pic is my avatar. That’s what it looks like after the “spa” day. Imagine that with a gloss finish.
Yea the gloss would look great. However that natural look looks really nice too! I've seen some very nice looking US MTD's that were natural so it's no less in my book. However Keith's gloss is one of the best and that wood would look spectacular.
I agree - natural looks fantastic as well, and it’s different. Even the “standards” are gloss now.
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I've had bodies painted at Pat Wilkins and Stars Guitars. Excellent workmanship at both. Couple of years ago it was around $350-$500 depending on what you wanted. Always the cheaper end when you remove everything yourself and just send them the body. I unfortunately will date my self, but I used to take bodies to Earl Scheib's...decent work. Try asking a good car paint shop for a clear coat. But if you have an existing oil finish....Pat Wilkins can remove it and finish it glossy. But I think it looks great as is.
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Speaking of gloss vs satin, I noticed the headstocks of my two Roscoe Centuries (both gloss finished) have gloss on the sides of the headstock as well, not just the front, and it ends at the edge of the back of the headstock. A nice touch (and undoubtedly more complicated than just glossing the front, I would think).
One reason I asked about what to use on this oil finished bass…
You can see a couple places where the top laminate has kind of separated. I’m worried it’s drying up. That’s why I’d like to oil it or in the extreme, have Keith do a clear lacquer over it.
You can see a couple places where the top laminate has kind of separated. I’m worried it’s drying up. That’s why I’d like to oil it or in the extreme, have Keith do a clear lacquer over it.
I once bought a German made Warwick Thumb fretless neck thru that had a crack in the Bubinga body. I repaired it by sanding the area to fill the crack with sanding dust and then hit it with super glue. The crack was filled and looked like dark figure in the wood.
Depending on your location, low humidity can dry out wood and cause cracks. I live in S Texas and it is usually humid here but I still keep my instruments in a room with a humidifier because A/C removes humidity from the air.
Depending on your location, low humidity can dry out wood and cause cracks. I live in S Texas and it is usually humid here but I still keep my instruments in a room with a humidifier because A/C removes humidity from the air.
I have emailed a couple times. Sent pics today. Waiting to hear back.
When they were redoing my neck, it seemed like email got checked once a week or so. When I called, I always talked to the man himself, fyi.
1 (336) 274-8810 (This is the main # on their site, not some secret Shane hotline number, fyi
).
