• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Roscoe Club

Some bassists could care less what B-string height is above the 10th fret, because they never play a note on that string in that area. It's hard to reach for most, and is not a tonal sweet spot for that string, in my experience.

When I custom ordered a bass from Keith, I specified neck shape, action, weight range, and pickup placement. He met all of my requirements, no problem, delivering a beautiful bass. When I've sent used instruments to Keith for modification or repair, he met my requirements when they were reasonable and possible.

When I had something that didn't meet my expectation, he made it right. Every time.

The bottom line for me follows: If I have a problem with a Roscoe, I call Keith Roscoe for help. He is available to help in a courteous, meaningful way. Otherwise, no Roscoe ever got fixed talking about it in this thread.

Yeah. I didn't have an issue until I started transcribing some Bach cello pieces.

Didn't means to start poopie. I just wanted to know if anyone else had an idea of what I was missing before I sent it back to Keith.
 
I don’t believe I have shims in any of mind. They have all been PLEK’ed and play great. I don’t have suoer low action. I just play them how they come from the shop. I had my Classic P at church today and it kicked ass.
Yours all have a different bridge though, right? The standards have the Hipshot B bridge, and the classic p has the vintage bridge, I think.
 
After having my Signature SKB-3005 worked on at the Roscoe shop (so the shim that it’s always required could be removed)
What specifically did you have done? I know I have made fun of you in the past (laughing with you, not at you :D ) for your love of the pin router, but my understanding of a shim in the neck joint is that it raises the base of the neck so the fretboard is closer to the strings (adding thickness to the neck, essentially). I had a Lakland that required that, and I figured they just cut the neck too thin...

I may be misunderstanding this whole thing too- I'm half helping my wife with the taxes, so my brain is a but mushy(er ;) ) at the moment...
 
What specifically did you have done? I know I have made fun of you in the past (laughing with you, not at you :D ) for your love of the pin router, but my understanding of a shim in the neck joint is that it raises the base of the neck so the fretboard is closer to the strings (adding thickness to the neck, essentially). I had a Lakland that required that, and I figured they just cut the neck too thin...


Actually it has more to do with the angle of the bottom of the neck pocket (bottom) compared to the flat surface of the body that the bridge mounts to.
A shim typically adjusts the bottom of the neck pocket by about .5-1 degree.
That drops the nut down which changes the angle between the finger board and strings.

Keith used the pin router to remove the required thickness of the neck pocket bottom (at the end of the neck) to zero at inside joint of the neck pocket (which accomplished the same thing a shim does (without leaving a gap under the neck to the outer edge of the neck pocket).

Does your head hurt yet?:D

I love the pin router!:roflmao:
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Fred312b
Maybe the simple standard plus basses with our “lesser” B hardware aren’t so lesser.

I can play up by and past the 12th fest on most any string with ease.

Maybe it’s those fancy carved tops...;)


Ahhhh no!:)
But I will say that the STD and STD Plus basses I owned played equally as well as the Customs.

But they were a bit flat chested!:roflmao:
 
Well Fritz (@staccatogrowl ) found a really cool thread talking in detail about pin routers and sent it to me.
Of course given my recent passion for pin routers I just had to share it!:D

Pin Routers: The Old-School Production Workhorses

At any rate, Grab a cup of coffee and kick back in you favorite chair and check it out.

I will say that Just the thought of “Blondie” laying on that hard cold steel bed with the spinning shaft coming down above her makes me faint!:jawdrop:
 
Every Roscoe I've played had great build and Playability but my favorite has been my Standard Plus Buckeye.

0F451AD6-CD84-4603-B558-79E2D4A4DCCA_jpeg.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: armybass
Actually it has more to do with the angle of the bottom of the neck pocket (bottom) compared to the flat surface of the body that the bridge mounts to.
A shim typically adjusts the bottom of the neck pocket by about .5-1 degree.
That drops the nut down which changes the angle between the finger board and strings.

Keith used the pin router to remove the required thickness of the neck pocket bottom (at the end of the neck) to zero at inside joint of the neck pocket (which accomplished the same thing a shim does (without leaving a gap under the neck to the outer edge of the neck pocket).

Does your head hurt yet?:D

I love the pin router!:roflmao:

I’m curious now. What measurements are you guys getting at the 12th that you consider “low” action. I know a lot is relative and preference but would like a number to reference.
 
Finally put money down to get Keith to build me my 5JJ bass I've been wanting for years. It will have Waterfall Bubinga over Ash body. Will have Maple Wenge Maple neck with Wenge Fretboard and matching Bubinga Inlay. I'm having Nordstrand NJ5 pickup and Nordstrand Preamp with VTC control. Will be from the same Block of wood this one is from. Excited to have a JJ bass coming.
s1.jpg
s2.jpg
 
For those using Roscoe Barts I’m curious how close to the strings you all keep the pickups.

With the strings pressed down at the 24th fret ~.125 from the bottom of the G string and ~.188 from the bottom of the B (to the top of the pickup). That’s how mine is and it’s nicely balanced. Good starting point. Just use your ears from there and tweak as required.