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S.U.B. Club

#902
seems like i haven't posted in this thread yet, though i've owned my sub since 2004 now. removed pickguard, added stickers, refinished neck. played almost every gig to this day with it.

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neck, from this
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to this
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there's a thread on here about that refinishing thing, in case you're interested.
 
#905
I just love the textured paint on these basses. A lot more than the glossy poly or nitro.
It just looks a lot more like a "work instrument" if you know what I mean. Compared, the glossy finish makes my Squier Jazz look like fancy-pants boutique instrument.

I can pretty much imagine how all the other colors look like on these SUBs, but not the white one, which is my favorite. Could some one with a white SUB snap an up-close pic of the finish? It's kinda hard to imagine a non-gloss white finish.
 
#906
georgestrings said:
AFAIK, they only got the compensated nut in the last year of production - which would be '06...



- georgestrings
Click to expand...

And imho that last year of SUBs are.killer. I have had quite a few. The best two were 2006s... They were as close to standards as possible....but with the painted neck (which i dig)
#1 on my 'why did I ever part with that bass' list
 
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#907
LkS said:
Any idea how I could find out the year it's been made?
The number on the back of the headstock reads: X15941
Click to expand...

The compensated nut indicates a late model. I think they started doing that sometime in 2005.

You can get an idea of the date for your bass looking here:

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the very last bass on the list is from November 2006, and the serial number is slightly lower than yours, so your bass appears to be a late 2006 one.
 
#908
LkS said:
I just love the textured paint on these basses. A lot more than the glossy poly or nitro.
It just looks a lot more like a "work instrument" if you know what I mean. Compared, the glossy finish makes my Squier Jazz look like fancy-pants boutique instrument.

I can pretty much imagine how all the other colors look like on these SUBs, but not the white one, which is my favorite. Could some one with a white SUB snap an up-close pic of the finish? It's kinda hard to imagine a non-gloss white finish.
Click to expand...

Search this thread I have a pic of my black, graphite and white sub here..
 
#909
yqene5a5.jpg
odarellmc said:
well let me go in for the kill!
Click to expand...

Here's the pic
 
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#912
I'm crashing into this thread like a crazy chicken, but I wanted to ask my fellow SUB players a technical question:

Anyone experiencing either an overly-boomy E, or, by contrast, an anemic G string?

I have an active SUB that was refinished by Marty Bell in a beautiful gold sparkle, and it sounded great until I got it up to full-band volume. I was opening up the EQ bass knob, but the E got so much more bassy and boomy than the other strings, that was definitely a no-no. So I have learned to adjust bass EQ to a less boomy, more even tone across all strings, with the exception of the high G. I had to raise the pickup at the G end, and lower at the E end, and now it's balancing better. I also went with .045-.100 string gauge (Super Slinkys, of course!), and that made the E easier to work with.

I have resorted to keeping the bass knob off (which I understand to equal "flat" with other electronics), and the treble about halfway off (no detent, pity, but I understand this to equal "flat" with other electronics). Of course, when I need it, opening the treble and adding bass is THE ultimate slap tone IMHO.

I play Markbass LMII through 15's and usually leave the EQ flat, no filters. That works great for most of my basses, passive and active, and none of them display the over-boominess or weak string output I described.

What have been your experiences with the on-board EQ settings and relative string outputs on your SUBs? I think I'm on the right track and the tone is getting much more usable and consistent, but I'd value your feedback just the same.
 
#913
Hi folks.

Quick shout out for the new year. Happy happy 2014 to everyone.

Also, realized that I don't think I ever posted here that I am selling one of my USA Subs. It's a passive 5 string. Listing here:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f126/fs-feeler-ebmm-usa-passive-sub5-1032074/

This is a reluctant sale which is why it started as a feeder but the right thing to do given I need to unload some gear.

PM if you are interested :)

RBM
 
#914
electracoyote said:
the bass knob off (which I understand to equal "flat" with other electronics), and the treble about halfway off (no detent, pity, but I understand this to equal "flat" with other electronics).
Click to expand...

Halfway on both knobs is "flat"

I don't experience any boominess at flat settings, but I'm not playing through multiple 15's.
My rig is two 30 lb. cabs, one with 4x5" speakers plus a tweeter and one with 1x10" speaker.

Rig.jpg
 
#915
shrigg said:
Halfway on both knobs is "flat"

I don't experience any boominess at flat settings, but I'm not playing through multiple 15's.
My rig is two 30 lb. cabs, one with 4x5" speakers plus a tweeter and one with 1x10" speaker
Click to expand...

Okay, thanks for the clarification. I'm beginning to think that flattening out the onboard EQ is a good start. I don't think it's my 15's, because I have several other loud, active, and aggressive basses that aren't displaying this boominess. Cranking the bass knob on the SUB definitely makes that happen.

It's getting closer, but I always prefer to start with everything flat and go from there. On the right track now, thanks for the feedback.
 
#916
Letting my sub go to a guy at an out of town show my bands playing tonight. I really loved the bass and it's probably the meanest sounding bass I've played to date, but I bought another spector so I have to move some gear.

I'll miss it, but I'm gonna keeping my eyes open for an active 5 string in the next few months.

I always preferred the sub 5 body and picguard style over the EBMM Stingrays.
 
#917
dukeisdog said:
Letting my sub go to a guy at an out of town show my bands playing tonight. I really loved the bass and it's probably the meanest sounding bass I've played to date, but I bought another spector so I have to move some gear.

I'll miss it, but I'm gonna keeping my eyes open for an active 5 string in the next few months.

I always preferred the sub 5 body and picguard style over the EBMM Stingrays.
Click to expand...


Yes, I agree... The one piece pickguard/controls on the stingray was not my fave... I like the egg-shaped guard much better.
 
#919
dukeisdog said:
Letting my sub go to a guy at an out of town show my bands playing tonight. I really loved the bass and it's probably the meanest sounding bass I've played to date, but I bought another spector so I have to move some gear.

I'll miss it, but I'm gonna keeping my eyes open for an active 5 string in the next few months.

I always preferred the sub 5 body and picguard style over the EBMM Stingrays.
Click to expand...

The Sub is an EBMM bass. It's the "Sterling by" Sub that is not.
 
#920
electracoyote said:
I'm crashing into this thread like a crazy chicken, but I wanted to ask my fellow SUB players a technical question:

Anyone experiencing either an overly-boomy E, or, by contrast, an anemic G string?
Click to expand...
It's a well known side-effect of the MM design that the G is a bit anemic. Sterling Ball says it's the preamp itself that causes this.
I do notice less of an issue with different strings. I also tune quite low (on a 4 string I start at C for the E string) and I notice less of this than I do at conert ptich. so perhaps its an EQ null point that puts the harmonics of a G out of phase?
Either way, even with bridge, pickup and subtle body and headstock changes the "dead" G has been part of the Stingray bloodline for a while.
Some bassists like the demphasis of the G for popping and snapping.
I've never found it enough of an issue to write home about, but then I use a bit of gain and some toobz to even out my volume. :bassist:
 

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