Hmm, I did have a look on Thingiverse but couldn't really find any modelsI print them off on my 3d printer
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Hmm, I did have a look on Thingiverse but couldn't really find any modelsI print them off on my 3d printer
I'm sayingvyou just gave yourself the options. We don't know what more your asking for...A finger ramp, something to put next to the single bridge pickup to make playing more comfortable when not using a pick
you have a 3d printer?Hmm, I did have a look on Thingiverse but couldn't really find any models
Yep, passive EQ can only cut, just like the PTB on G&Ls like the L1000. Is the pickup in parallel (as they usually are on a Stingray) or in series (like on a Sterling)? Series would be hotter.Hi. I just bought a 2003 passive Music Man USA SUB. I would like to know how the passive treble and bass controls works because I feel they boost when I keep them on 100% and also the input is quite hot on the amp, however I have found a few post while I was searching on the web and some user say that these pots are roll off, that means 100% should be the neutral position.
Is there anyone who tried and compared the active and passive version? What's the difference in sound?
Thanks for your answer.
I didn't check the wiring, I will do it when I get home, but it should be parallel because it sounds like it. My favourite setting is when the treble and bass control are at 0%Yep, passive EQ can only cut, just like the PTB on G&Ls like the L1000. Is the pickup in parallel (as they usually are on a Stingray) or in series (like on a Sterling)? Series would be hotter.
I didn't check the wiring, I will do it when I get home, but it should be parallel because it sounds like it. My favourite setting is when the treble and bass control are at 0%
I will post a picture later what is under the control cavity, thanksEvery SUB I have been able to check from 2003 and early 2004 were wired in series, and every one from late 2004 onwards were parallel. Weird, huh? The sample is not huge, less than 10 instruments (3 of them were mine) and all active, but it's clearly more than a one-off even if I can't say categorically that early ones are series and late ones parallel (does not apply to SUB5, as I had an early one too and thatw as wired in parallel).
I'd be interested to see if yours matches too. For what is worth, I prefer the series mode.
I have a bypass switch in my 2002 Stingray, and I found out that the sound I generally go for is pretty much the same as with the preamp bypassed... so I'm not surprised you like the passive one with the tone wide open. A lot of people go on about the preamp, and it is very nice to have it, but even without it these basses just sound great.
That series/parallel history is weird! I have two SUBS--an '04 5 string and '05 4 string, both active and definitely parallel. I prefer the active Stingray, but my settings are pretty mild and hardly change. I have played Stingray type basses that were passive and the inherent Stingray thing is there. That pickup, in parallel, in that spot is 80% of the 'classic' Stingray tone. Series mode does add heft to the output and smooths the top end out, which is nice for passive use.Every SUB I have been able to check from 2003 and early 2004 were wired in series, and every one from late 2004 onwards were parallel. Weird, huh? The sample is not huge, less than 10 instruments (3 of them were mine) and all active, but it's clearly more than a one-off even if I can't say categorically that early ones are series and late ones parallel (does not apply to SUB5, as I had an early one too and thatw as wired in parallel).
I'd be interested to see if yours matches too. For what is worth, I prefer the series mode.
I have a bypass switch in my 2002 Stingray, and I found out that the sound I generally go for is pretty much the same as with the preamp bypassed... so I'm not surprised you like the passive one with the tone wide open. A lot of people go on about the preamp, and it is very nice to have it, but even without it these basses just sound great.
Can't tell from that pic. Taking a resistance measurement from the pickup leads can help figure it out. If the resistance is lower (around 2K)--parallel. If the resistance is higher (around 8K)--series.Here is a picture from the preamp, but I am not an expert and can't tell if it's series or parallel
So.....That series/parallel history is weird! I have two SUBS--an '04 5 string and '05 4 string, both active and definitely parallel. I prefer the active Stingray, but my settings are pretty mild and hardly change. I have played Stingray type basses that were passive and the inherent Stingray thing is there. That pickup, in parallel, in that spot is 80% of the 'classic' Stingray tone. Series mode does add heft to the output and smooths the top end out, which is nice for passive use.
Side note: this was an experiment I had to try: putting T40 pickups in a Foundation. The outer coils are in the same locations of the original single coil Super Ferrites (roughly in the J bass spots). The mini switch splits to the inside coils, which was my intention for something different vs the more J bass outer coil locations. Since the inside coils are pretty close together, in parallel, and have a similar performance as a MM coil, it has a passive Stingray vibe to the tone, at least 'close enough for RnR' haha. This 'passive Stingray' tone was a happy accident and I really like it!
The math on pickup location: a Stingray pickup is centered about 30.5" from the nut (coils roughly at 30 & 31"), the inside coils on this bass are at 29 & 31", for a center point of 30", which isn't far off from a Stingray. It just has a touch of phasing from the coils not being right up on each other.
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Can't tell from that pic. Taking a resistance measurement from the pickup leads can help figure it out. If the resistance is lower (around 2K)--parallel. If the resistance is higher (around 8K)--series.
The neck spot (routing towards the bridge) is pretty much spot on for a T45/L1000/P vibe. Routing towards the neck will put it more in that Mudbucker zone, but still bridgeward enough to still punch.So.....
I've got an empty Foundation body and one T40 toaster pickup.....where exactly (in your esteemed opinion) would be the best place to put that one pickup?
I am tempted to put it in the mudbucker location knowing it will provide deep bass tones but not be too muddy because it's a T40 pickup and not a mudbucker pickup design.
But I would like to to know what you (and others here) think is the best spot?
Keep in mind I have:
Gen 1 Slant Fury
Gen 2&3 Furys (Geezer pup in each)
Stock mahogany Patriot
Gen 3 Fury that has a Thunderbird pickup in the exact P position
USA SUB Stingray active
Squier CV 50's (51P, 54P) Precision
Squier 2010 Vintage Modified Precision Bass TB (which is a '72 Tele reissue with the Fender wide range humbucker in the mudbucker location).
So what would be the thing to do with that Foundation body and T40 toaster pickup to make something I don't have covered?
Here is a picture from the preamp, but I am not an expert and can't tell if it's series or parallel
Can't tell from that pic. Taking a resistance measurement from the pickup leads can help figure it out. If the resistance is lower (around 2K)--parallel. If the resistance is higher (around 8K)--series.
Oops, I meant to ask that question over in the Peavey thread, I would guess it's a much more welcome topic there. I'm gonna post it there too.The neck spot (routing towards the bridge) is pretty much spot on for a T45/L1000/P vibe. Routing towards the neck will put it more in that Mudbucker zone, but still bridgeward enough to still punch.
Bridge spot is a touch back for Stingray, but right in the spot for that burpy, Jaco thing.