I would suggest the BDDI v.2. I started out with BDDI v.1, then got the BDDI v.2. I prefer the v.2 with the MID control.
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Sansamp Bass Driver D.I. V1 doesn't turn on...
- Thread starter VLbass
- Start date
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- help pedal sansamp bddi v1 preamp
I would suggest the BDDI v.2. I started out with BDDI v.1, then got the BDDI v.2. I prefer the v.2 with the MID control.
The mighty red dragon notices your dilema, and offers you a Dr.J as well as a Wine Cellar affording 90 percent of the tone and infinitely more reliability than someones abused hunk of junk. If the sound is bussin no one's going to take a second glance at your pedal board and demand the real deal.
Mine was doing the same thing. I finally got annoyed enough that I pulled the back cover and a) made sure the spring was straight, pressing on the center of the button, b) reflowed the switch solder points on the PCB, and c) placed a drop of DeoxIT D100 at the edge of the switch button and let it creep down into the switch guts. It’s a lot better now. I used to get a maybe 10% malfunction rate on switch presses. Now it’s rare, like maybe 1% at most. Unfortunately I don’t know which of the 3 things I did fixed the problem. I just did what I could all at once with what I had on hand and buttoned the unit back up because I had other things to do that day.
We have responded to you a few times through our support email. There may be some confusion here. If a pedal doesn't "turn on" that means it is dead. You will get no signal at all. If the effects portion doesn't engage, that can be an issue with the switch. Directions to deal with that have been sent.
Yes, I completely agree with you. There was some confusion there. All of the other pedals in my chain that are connected before and after the SansAmp work, but the pedal itself does not. What I meant to say was when it arrived, there were two possibilities, either DOA or a faulty footswitch. I've been told by the original seller that it could be the footswitch that was the issue and was suggested that I use some contact cleaner. Other users say it was DOA and I should get a refund. The problem with that is that I bought the pedal on Nov. 29th and I didn't receive it until Dec. 15th, which far exceeds the seller's return policy on reverb. I've included a photo of my pedalboard below. I apologize for not providing more information about the chain. It goes from the TU300 ---> Wah ---> BC-1X ---> Agro ---> SansAmp BDDI ---> UniChorus ---> Sonic Ambience.
Was that your fault though? Did it come and you were away, or did shipping just take that long? I would think return policy would be x number of days from the time you receive it. If they sold you a dead pedal, you deserve a refund. I would fight it out with Reverb. You have to be the squeaky wheel and make a lot of noise.
It definitely was not my fault. I was home the entire time and everyday, I would check the USPS updates and would see that the pedal was sitting in LA for an entire week. And the return policy of the seller is 7 days. Again, it is a probability that it was DOA, but also the probability of a fault footswitch/spring. But that is something that I would need to explore some time today. Here's the shipping details in you're interested. I bought the EBS UniChorus pedal that was shipped from Japan too, but it arrived in 9 days, so I don't know why it took so long for the BDDI to come home.
*UPDATE*
As it turns out, it was indeed the spring that had been misaligned during shipment. Thank you everyone for contributing on this silly thread.
P.S. does anyone know the size of the hex nut that is mounted on the input, parallel output, and output jacks? There's one missing on the parallel output jack.
As it turns out, it was indeed the spring that had been misaligned during shipment. Thank you everyone for contributing on this silly thread.
P.S. does anyone know the size of the hex nut that is mounted on the input, parallel output, and output jacks? There's one missing on the parallel output jack.
I have some Cliff brand phone jacks (aka 1/4" jacks) here, model 505. Their retainer nuts look identical to my BDDI's and fit exactly the same as the factory ones. I suspect all Cliff's phone jack nuts are identical, so you might be able to get by with a 502 or a 503 for $3 less. Available (just one example of many places) on Tube Depot's "Jacks and Plugs" page:
Instrument & Microphone Jacks & Plugs • DIY Central | Tube Depot
Might as well load up on other stuff you need while you're there. I've been using TD for years with no complaints except for a minor glitch on one order about 5 years ago, which they corrected fast.
This place has jack nuts that look like they'd fit. About halfway down the page:
Marshall Amp Parts - Marshall Jacks
Marshall Amp Parts - Marshall Jacks
You got me there. No clue. A janky but workable solution might be to cover it with gaff tape, with the sticky area that covers the battery cavity covered with a smaller piece of gaff tape, sticky side to sticky side so it doesn't stick to the battery. Or maybe a thin piece of foam in place of the smaller piece of gaff tape, to keep the battery from rattling around. Just watch out for the battery interfering with the gray ribbon cable soldered to the balanced output.
I haven't looked, but you might be able to find the nut (for sure) and the battery cover at DIY-type suppliers:
Small Bear Electronics (best bet for battery cover as they carry Rat, Muff and Ibby TS spares)
Amplified Parts
StompBoxParts
Jack nut & other hardware may also be available at Tayda, but I doubt Tayda would have the battery cover.
