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SBMM Ray4HH vs Ray34HH - is it worth the extra $620?

fourstringbliss

Supporting Member
Oct 5, 2003
12,442
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Puyallup, WA
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VS

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If I bought the Ray4HH I'd more than likely replace the tuners, bridge, and control plate to better quality black finished ones, and also probably replace the preamp - maybe the pickups. The Ray34HH is going to have "better" woods and I definitely like the way it looks with the roasted maple neck and figured woods. Is the hardware better? The preamp? The pickups?

I'm open to spending the $1049 for the Ray34HH but not if I need to then replaced the hardware and possibly the electronics. I'd much rather get the Ray4HH with good bones and then change out the rest - I've done that kind of thing before.

Thanks!
 
I used to own a Ray4 and I presently own a Ray24, a Ray34 and a StingRay Special.

The Ray4 has a pretty awful stock pickup that you'll want to replace asap. Even a cheap Chinese pickup that you can wire in parallel makes a huge difference. Everything below assumes you've made this swap.

How is a Ray34 different from a Ray4 (not necessarily better)?

  • The Ray4 and Ray24 have a narrow 38mm nut while the Ray34 and SR Special have a wide 43mm nut. This makes a significant difference in how they play. Pick your poison, it's purely subjective.
  • Pickup and preamp are dramatically different. The Ray34 sounds like a proper StingRay -- and that could be good or bad depending on what you're looking for. The preamp knobs can make dramatic changes to the EQ curve but the damn thing sounds unapologetically scooped no matter what you do. The Ray4 (at least with the pickup I used, even parallel-wired) is more mellow. Some might say it's warmer, others will say it lacks power and definition.
How is a Ray34 better than a Ray4?
  • Roasted maple neck is gorgeous and the satin finish is nicer to play than the cheap lacquer on the Ray4.
  • You have the option to get a Rosewood fingerboard, but even the roasted Maple fingerboard feels nicer than the raw maple on the Ray4.
  • I don't know if it's because of the body/neck wood or the bridge or the nut, but the Ray34 sounds a lot more lively and resonant even when it's not plugged in. I can wake up my kid in the next room if I'm slapping it around when it's NOT plugged in.
  • The bridge looks nicer vs. the ugly whitespace on the Ray4's bridge but functionally my Ray4's bridge never failed me.
  • I would assume the QC would be better on the Ray34 but I don't have enough empirical data to support this.
BTW a Ray34 is available for $930 in less sexy colors than the one you posted, so I would say the price difference is $500, not $620. Are the above differences/improvements worth the extra $500? Only you can decide.
 
I used to own a Ray4 and I presently own a Ray24, a Ray34 and a StingRay Special.

The Ray4 has a pretty awful stock pickup that you'll want to replace asap. Even a cheap Chinese pickup that you can wire in parallel makes a huge difference. Everything below assumes you've made this swap.

How is a Ray34 different from a Ray4 (not necessarily better)?

  • The Ray4 and Ray24 have a narrow 38mm nut while the Ray34 and SR Special have a wide 43mm nut. This makes a significant difference in how they play. Pick your poison, it's purely subjective.
  • Pickup and preamp are dramatically different. The Ray34 sounds like a proper StingRay -- and that could be good or bad depending on what you're looking for. The preamp knobs can make dramatic changes to the EQ curve but the damn thing sounds unapologetically scooped no matter what you do. The Ray4 (at least with the pickup I used, even parallel-wired) is more mellow. Some might say it's warmer, others will say it lacks power and definition.
How is a Ray34 better than a Ray4?
  • Roasted maple neck is gorgeous and the satin finish is nicer to play than the cheap lacquer on the Ray4.
  • You have the option to get a Rosewood fingerboard, but even the roasted Maple fingerboard feels nicer than the raw maple on the Ray4.
  • I don't know if it's because of the body/neck wood or the bridge or the nut, but the Ray34 sounds a lot more lively and resonant even when it's not plugged in. I can wake up my kid in the next room if I'm slapping it around when it's NOT plugged in.
  • The bridge looks nicer vs. the ugly whitespace on the Ray4's bridge but functionally my Ray4's bridge never failed me.
  • I would assume the QC would be better on the Ray34 but I don't have enough empirical data to support this.
BTW a Ray34 is available for $930 in less sexy colors than the one you posted, so I would say the price difference is $500, not $620. Are the above differences/improvements worth the extra $500? Only you can decide.
Have you felt like you needed to change anything out on the Ray34? I don't want to spend that kind of money to then swap out bridge or preamp.
 
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No. I haven't had it that long, so who knows maybe the tuners will break some day. And again you have to really want that crisp scooped tone (which I did), this thing doesn't mess around.
Great! I'm interested in the Ray34HH because of the two pickups, and the electronics/pickup placement will give me something I don't have in my other two basses.
 
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I have that exact Ray 34 and I have to say it doesn’t disappoint. So far I haven’t seen a need to change anything. All I’ve done so far was put on strap locks and a set of Pure Blues.

The Ray 4 felt cheap to me in comparison so I went with the Ray 34.

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That's the one I want. The amber is nice, but I think the burl figuring might just trigger people with trypophobia.

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I have the exact same one as the one on the bottom.
The craftsmanship is amazing. However, the sound from the bridge pickup is clearly awful. It sounds like an old horn. It's the wiring that gives it this terrible sound.
But once rewired, meaning all in parallel, it has an amazing sound.
So, these pickups are wired in series then? Definitely let us know how you would rewire them to be in parallel, thanks!
 
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I have a SUB Ray 4HH that I got even cheaper because of a large cosmetic flaw (paint chip) the stock pickups are hotter than Hell's gates, but I've found workable positions without any mods. I'm sure the higher end Ray is better, but the SUB works for me. Even at gigs, where it served as back-up.
 

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