Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
SBO 2022 - The Tailgate Trifecta
- Thread starter AK4570
- Start date
Here we're talking about a force being applied in the axial direction along the length of the arrow, which is completely different from what stiffening rods in a neck would see. Bending resistance VS axial compression strength.
I’ve been a bit lax about updates but we’re making steady forward progress.
As things tend to do, there have been some changes. About a week ago I was working on freshening up a couple of rusty old tool cases I had scrounged when the esteemed Mrs. AK4570 and daughter No. 2 came to visit (and to bring me coffee because I am spoiled rotten. And I love it. And them.) At any rate, the color I was applying to said tool cases was apparently the “perfect color” … so now I will be reusing the body from the P-copy and applying a new color, new pickguard (still using the AK plate) and fabricating a new mounting situation for controls.
The color in question with the license plate for comparison:
I’ve finally got my table saw up and running which is a huge help. When I purchased it locally, the previous owner gave me two motors with it, both USA Daytons. I pulled the 1hp 1725rpm motor off the saw and installed the 2hp 3450 motor. When I flipped the switch for her trial run, she spun backward!
Clearly, at some point in the past, someone had reversed the polarity which necessitated me re-reversing it.
After addressing the rotational issues, I ripped out some neck pieces which were slighty more curvy than I was hoping for.
And the layout...
As things tend to do, there have been some changes. About a week ago I was working on freshening up a couple of rusty old tool cases I had scrounged when the esteemed Mrs. AK4570 and daughter No. 2 came to visit (and to bring me coffee because I am spoiled rotten. And I love it. And them.) At any rate, the color I was applying to said tool cases was apparently the “perfect color” … so now I will be reusing the body from the P-copy and applying a new color, new pickguard (still using the AK plate) and fabricating a new mounting situation for controls.
The color in question with the license plate for comparison:
I’ve finally got my table saw up and running which is a huge help. When I purchased it locally, the previous owner gave me two motors with it, both USA Daytons. I pulled the 1hp 1725rpm motor off the saw and installed the 2hp 3450 motor. When I flipped the switch for her trial run, she spun backward!
Clearly, at some point in the past, someone had reversed the polarity which necessitated me re-reversing it.
After addressing the rotational issues, I ripped out some neck pieces which were slighty more curvy than I was hoping for.
And the layout...
The next day was set aside for jig making, a process greatly aided by a working table saw.
(don’t ask me why that picture is wonky… it was hot outside!)
I was also able to finish flattening the free-hand chain sawed ash for the back of the 5 string. It came in at 1 1/8 and I’m shooting for a ½ thick walnut top.
The sharp-eyed will probably notice that the upper horn has gotten a little thicker. Once I cut out the template, I realized it was a bit spindly and needed some more mass… so I massed it up.
I work midshift in an intervention program for at-risk youth so sleeping takes place in the morning/early afternoon. This in turn gives me a couple of uninterrupted hours in late afternoon to do a little bass building… in the hottest part of the day!
Undeterred, however, I attempted to persevere and applied “the trick” to my various neck pieces.
Then busted out the big guns (3 ¼ hp router from the router table that I haven’t built yet…) and flattened them up.
(don’t ask me why that picture is wonky… it was hot outside!)
I was also able to finish flattening the free-hand chain sawed ash for the back of the 5 string. It came in at 1 1/8 and I’m shooting for a ½ thick walnut top.
The sharp-eyed will probably notice that the upper horn has gotten a little thicker. Once I cut out the template, I realized it was a bit spindly and needed some more mass… so I massed it up.
I work midshift in an intervention program for at-risk youth so sleeping takes place in the morning/early afternoon. This in turn gives me a couple of uninterrupted hours in late afternoon to do a little bass building… in the hottest part of the day!
Undeterred, however, I attempted to persevere and applied “the trick” to my various neck pieces.
Then busted out the big guns (3 ¼ hp router from the router table that I haven’t built yet…) and flattened them up.
This makes me want to add a router to my toolbox. a lot.@NKBassman , when I saw my first single-cut, I initially thought, “wow, I need one of those!” As time wore on though, they kinda paled on me a bit. I started working on this body design almost 3 years ago and as I drew, modified, re-drew, and re-drew ad infinitum, it dawned on me that by dropping the curve of the upper horn back into the neck, I could make a not-completely-unpleasant single cut. They’re still not my favorite thing, but I’ll eventually build at least one, probably a fretless… even though exactly 0% of the music I play calls for fretless bass. But that’s no impediment to the building bug, right?
At any rate, back to what’s currently on the bench… errr… tailgate.
The clamps came off and everything looked good, so it was on to sketching potential headstock shapes.
There. That’ll do. And more importantly, it met with approval from “she who commissioned the build,” otherwise known as my highly selective (picky) and strong-willed (stubborn) younger daughter.
View attachment 4740459
Dropped the clamps off of the 5-string’s body blank and tossed the body template on to find the best layout.
View attachment 4740463
My router planning jig will never match the precision engineering of @Bruce Johnson , but it’ll scrape the high points off of some chainsaw-slabbed ash.
View attachment 4740464
…making progress…
View attachment 4740465
And we’ve got the back flattened.
View attachment 4740466
Somewhat unexpectedly, this is a nice piece of ash. (Clears throat uncomfortably…) Really nice!
View attachment 4740470
We're headed out of town for the next couple of days... I wonder if I could sneak some tools into the luggage?
In this bass building game, I find the humble router indispensable. In my little tailgate “shop” it does yeoman’s duty in its originally intended role, serves as a planer (with jig), as a jointer (also with jig), along with a variety of other roles.
I’ve got 3 of the beasts: a large Makita that gets used for the majority of tasks, a small “laminate trimmer” sized Makita (great for pickup routes), and the monster shown above. I don’t have more than $100-$150 in all three having purchased them used in various and sundry places.
Best regards,
John
I’ve got 3 of the beasts: a large Makita that gets used for the majority of tasks, a small “laminate trimmer” sized Makita (great for pickup routes), and the monster shown above. I don’t have more than $100-$150 in all three having purchased them used in various and sundry places.
Best regards,
John
Today started with pulling clamps off the neck beam, scraping some glue, and then dropping it back in the jig for flattening.
Once that was accomplished, it was on to cutting a couple sets of tops. Since I don’t (yet) have a bandsaw, it was the old table saw, cut on edge, flip, and repeat.
Once that was accomplished, it was on to cutting a couple sets of tops. Since I don’t (yet) have a bandsaw, it was the old table saw, cut on edge, flip, and repeat.
Once cut at far as the table saw would allow, it was onto the hard work of finishing the job with a completely inappropriately sized handsaw.
On second thought, it’s way too hot out here for this level of physical exertion… and I’m way too lazy! I was forced to tap into my farmboy past and tagged in an even more inappropriate tool… seen hiding in the upper corner of the picture.
Yep… Old Reliable. The Porter Cable Tiger Saw. That made quick work of it.
On second thought, it’s way too hot out here for this level of physical exertion… and I’m way too lazy! I was forced to tap into my farmboy past and tagged in an even more inappropriate tool… seen hiding in the upper corner of the picture.
Yep… Old Reliable. The Porter Cable Tiger Saw. That made quick work of it.
Once the various pieces were liberated from their neighbors, I gave them a quick initial flattening with the No. 5 before clamping them in another @Bruce Johnson inspired router jig which my phone decided not to take pictures of as it was overheating. In the shade. With a breeze.
Regardless of technology’s inconsistencies, can we all agree that we owe Bruce a big “thank you” for his generosity in sharing tips and techniques over the years? Speaking for myself, I am more than happy to admit that most of my current setups, jigs, and general timesavers can be traced directly back to the (in)famous router jig thread.
At any rate, the first top was glued up and I closed out the day by cutting out the new headstock shape on the daughter bass.
Regardless of technology’s inconsistencies, can we all agree that we owe Bruce a big “thank you” for his generosity in sharing tips and techniques over the years? Speaking for myself, I am more than happy to admit that most of my current setups, jigs, and general timesavers can be traced directly back to the (in)famous router jig thread.
At any rate, the first top was glued up and I closed out the day by cutting out the new headstock shape on the daughter bass.
Steal away! I stole it from someone else!
On second thought, I believe we should use the term "procured."
On second thought, I believe we should use the term "procured."
Yes and no. A 30" scale neck will be 22.5" long from nut to 24th fret. So you have at least 1.5" of extra truss rod to deal with. So yes, it's too long. But if you're scratch building, you could have an absurdly long heel or go up to 36 frets to accommodate it, or have a really long space between the zero fret and "nut". 
Nah, scratch that, it's too long. 
Or cut it down and have someone reweld it?
Nah, scratch that, it's too long. Or cut it down and have someone reweld it?
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,007
- 1
- 31,705
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
And this is why my inability to think mathematically often leads to public embarrassment! As soon as @Beej explained, it was completely clear.
Thanks, all
Thanks, all
So you are saying that ideally the truss rod, assuming it’s adjusted from the body side, should end at the zero fret, or the nut?
How close is close enough, generally speaking and all.
My non-engineer brain wants to accept a large fudge factor, but I’m sure there is a zone beyond which the rod isn’t going to function well.
How close is close enough, generally speaking and all.
My non-engineer brain wants to accept a large fudge factor, but I’m sure there is a zone beyond which the rod isn’t going to function well.
I'll first caveat by stating I'm not an engineer, so I'm just repeating what I understand.
Because the neck is thinner towards the nut, it's also more bendy there, and so the truss-rod does more work down at that end than at the heel end. So you benefit by having the truss rod installed in such a way that it can affect a change in the first four frets or so. I install mine so that the TR nut is right under the end of the fretboard, and that can either be under the nut or in most cases, since I use a zero fret, it's under the string spacer "nut".
I don't know of any advantages to having a heel-access truss-rod, so I don't use them. There is some argument that the nut-access truss-rod slot weakens the neck, but I use other build methods to compensate for that potential weakness and have never had a failure there (knocks on wood).
