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Schecter Diamond P 5 (NBD)

#62
Modding update

So changing the bridge on these basses to a hipshot is a bit of work..At this point, we are deciding not to do (maybe later)

The holes for the bridge line up with other holes for the string through and it would requir to drill them out and glue in some wooden dowels for a stronger bite for the screws to go, ect...

Just a FYI: the bridges on these models are made by Carvin and they are the same bridges on the SB5Ks (minus the saddel lock down screw which is not needed)

Preamp: I did put in a Nordstrand V - V- B/T with a switch for the coil split and a push pull on the first volume pot for passive.

The preamp does change the sound I would say significantly ...The Nordstrand is not a flat preamp and there is a nice clarity to it that and is vibrant in the upper mids. Since the Dimond P uses overwound Cermaic pickups the mids on the bass dominate more then anything. You can balance that out a bit and get a very what I call "Modern Classic" tone buy just boosting the lows and high BOTH just a smidge (you don't need much and will hear it right away with that pre). It will instantly start to even out those supper strong mids and increasing the tonal range of the bass.

I honestly feel that Schecter wanted to make a bass that cut through a rock mix easy with those pickups but with that additional pre I know find I could use this for just about any application...You can get a great modern fusion tone out of it by dialing the P pickup back a little or my personal favorite is to go full bore but cutting the coil of the bridge pickup. Its got a classic P/J tone but clearer with the 35" scale and that pre. So far so good.
 
#65
FYI for bridge mods. not sure if it'll be the same on the 5'er, but on my diamond p4, i swapped the bridge with a schaller roller bridge and was able to use one of the original screw holes but had to drill the other two, and they did not overlap with the string-thru holes.
 
#66
I understand the desire to add the preamp, but what's so bad about the stock bridge? I no longer have my P5, but I remember it being stout and flexible, string spacing adjustment being the exception, but I bought mine for the wider spacing anyway.

I also understand the desire to mod, but please clarify the bridge thing. And no, I'm not trying to be a d#*k. :cool:
 
#67
for me, i did not feel the bridge fit the 4 as it should. almost like the bridge was made with smaller string spacing than the bass was intended for. so the g and e were pretty far away from the edge of the fingerboard. it made playing it feel a tad awkward. so i wanted a bridge with adjustable spacing and i wanted to have black hardware. the schaller bridge fullfilled both of these needs. other than the spacing and color issue it is a good bridge and still have the stock one on my stiletto elite-5.
 
#69
dedpool1052 said:
for me, i did not feel the bridge fit the 4 as it should. almost like the bridge was made with smaller string spacing than the bass was intended for. so the g and e were pretty far away from the edge of the fingerboard. it made playing it feel a tad awkward. so i wanted a bridge with adjustable spacing and i wanted to have black hardware. the schaller bridge fullfilled both of these needs. other than the spacing and color issue it is a good bridge and still have the stock one on my stiletto elite-5.
Click to expand...

Thin Q.

Mine was a fiver and I didn't experience (or at least notice) the strings too far from the edge of the fretboard. The color change makes sense also.
 
#70
madbassplaya said:
Thinking about picking one of these up. Where are they made?
Click to expand...

Hey Brother...:bassist:
They are made in South Korea I would say that build wise they are on par with the SBMM (which is really good IMHO)
 
#71
jlepre said:
Sounds like that bridge mod may be a bit tedious. Not sure if the reward is worth the risk.
The B/T? Is that a stacked knob?
Maybe I missed it, but what pups did you drop in?
Click to expand...

Hey J
Yep the B/T is a stacked Bass/Treble and I put in a switch for the coil cut.
I did not change the pickups but...after working in the studio the other night I was a little premature on my assement on evening out the mids after listing to play back in good studio and with a real mix with clean guita, Keys & drums. It was still real mid heavy even with the slight boost to the highs and low. At least compared to the Jazzes I play.
Yep the bridge is a little much at this time. I didn't change the pickups but its nots out of the question, if I do change them I'm going to go the oppisite direction, underwound (think 70s) and alinco.
 
#72
Immigrant said:
I understand the desire to add the preamp, but what's so bad about the stock bridge? I no longer have my P5, but I remember it being stout and flexible, string spacing adjustment being the exception, but I bought mine for the wider spacing anyway.

I also understand the desire to mod, but please clarify the bridge thing. And no, I'm not trying to be a d#*k. :cool:
Click to expand...

:cool:
No worries Immigrant, I understand, text can be difficult to exspress at times.

I'm able to play real progressivly with a slightly tighter spacing. My valenti is one os the easist 5s I have ever played and its 18MM. So to me even though its just a slight differance I can really feel it in my playing and can play easier with tighter. PS the stock bridge is great...I like em a little beefy.

Note, outside from playing music I look at this modding as something goofy and fun...When on stage or the studio...I'm not even thinking about this stuff. (Until I take the recording home...LOL)
 
#74
Immigrant said:
Thin Q.

Mine was a fiver and I didn't experience (or at least notice) the strings too far from the edge of the fretboard. The color change makes sense also.
Click to expand...

yeah, it's weird that it's only an issue on the 4's. if you look at some in stock pics of the 4 compared to the 5 you'll see what i'm talking about.


[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

the E is almost on top of the 12th fret inlay.
 
#75
basswave said:
Modding update

So changing the bridge on these basses to a hipshot is a bit of work..At this point, we are deciding not to do (maybe later)

The holes for the bridge line up with other holes for the string through and it would requir to drill them out and glue in some wooden dowels for a stronger bite for the screws to go, ect...

Just a FYI: the bridges on these models are made by Carvin and they are the same bridges on the SB5Ks (minus the saddel lock down screw which is not needed)

Preamp: I did put in a Nordstrand V - V- B/T with a switch for the coil split and a push pull on the first volume pot for passive.

The preamp does change the sound I would say significantly ...The Nordstrand is not a flat preamp and there is a nice clarity to it that and is vibrant in the upper mids. Since the Dimond P uses overwound Cermaic pickups the mids on the bass dominate more then anything. You can balance that out a bit and get a very what I call "Modern Classic" tone buy just boosting the lows and high BOTH just a smidge (you don't need much and will hear it right away with that pre). It will instantly start to even out those supper strong mids and increasing the tonal range of the bass.

I honestly feel that Schecter wanted to make a bass that cut through a rock mix easy with those pickups but with that additional pre I know find I could use this for just about any application...You can get a great modern fusion tone out of it by dialing the P pickup back a little or my personal favorite is to go full bore but cutting the coil of the bridge pickup. Its got a classic P/J tone but clearer with the 35" scale and that pre. So far so good.
Click to expand...

Any chance you could post a couple pics? Thinking about having a tech add in a preamp on Mine. Would like to get a brighter sound out of it.
 
#77
mattattack187 said:
Any chance you could post a couple pics? Thinking about having a tech add in a preamp on Mine. Would like to get a brighter sound out of it.
Click to expand...

Actually I just drop it off and let my buddy do it, so I do not have any pics.
However
I can say this, if you decided to do be prepared to do a little routing under the guard. Its pretty tight and clean under there and you will need a little room for the battery ect...
 
#78
dedpool1052 said:
yeah, it's weird that it's only an issue on the 4's. if you look at some in stock pics of the 4 compared to the 5 you'll see what i'm talking about.


[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

the E is almost on top of the 12th fret inlay.
Click to expand...


Now THATS weird. I had a Model-T four string and it didn't look like that. I've only owned the two Scheckies and I was amazed at the build quality. I know the string position issue isn't a build problem, but I'm surprised it was designed that way.

I gotta stop looking at those. It makes me miss mine even more.:bawl:
 
#79
jlepre said:
WOW...brighter? I have no problem getting a bright sound out of mine. I actually have to dial DOWN the bridge PUP, or it sounds TOO bright for MY taste.
Click to expand...

Ya IDK if it's just my Bass in particular. Even with Fresh Stings and the amp on flat and the tone knob wide open, it sounds a little muddy. I coil tap the humbucker and that seems to help somewhat. My E sting also almost always feels and sounds very dull when I pluck the open E. Maybe I'm just very particular, idk? I DO like this Bass though, it's a keeper.
 

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