• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Double Bass Setup for URB?

R

Randy Howard

Apr 2, 2015
186
37
73
#1
I have played upright for about 15 years. I am in no way a pro but I do have some hours in on it. Mostly I played Scandinavian folk and no, Scandinavians rarely polka and never wear lederhosen.

The bass is a blond Kay made in 1945. Years ago I put Thomastik flatwound nickel strings on it and they have been a great choice. I also planed the neck back to original shape as the previous owner played round wound strings and grooved it. The neck is perfect.

I have two concerns:
The bridge over the years has indented the belly so that it does not fit well. So long ago I glued some balsa wood to the feet of the bridge so it had some compliance. I feel this is not a great solution as the soft balsa would probably not transfer vibration all that well. What is the right way to do this?

Since I often played acoustically without amplification I set the bridge high so I could really dig into the strings and get better volume. I don't need to play that way now and would like to drop string height to a more usual jazz standard and hopefully pick up some sound coloration, harmonics, mwa, etc. Who can recommend a starting point for string heights? Who sells a good adjustable bridge?

Thanks!
 
#4
Randy Howard said:
Excellent! Thank you. Any thoughts on an adjustable bridge to buy?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I'm not really qualified to answer this question. I think your best bet would be to talk to a reputable luthier in your area. It's possible that he/she could install adjusters in your existing bridge, assuming it's in good shape. That would be a whole lot cheaper than buying a new adjustable bridge blank and having it fitted to your bass. If you do need a new bridge, your luthier will likely have fairly strong ideas about the appropriate size and make of bridge for your instrument.
 
#5
Most luthiers install adjusters to a normal bridge after the bridge feet were fitted to the top, because it would be very hard to do this with feet that can turn around any second. So if your bridge is still in a good condition (straight, not curved towards the fingerboard) installing adjusters is the cheapest and best solution to find the best bridge height for you playing your instrument.
6 to 9mm is good for steel core strings, but for synthetic core strings I would rather recommend 7 to 11 mm and for gut probably even more.
I wouldn't go below 5 to 8 mm personally, but I know people playing that low. I just cannot play pizz on setups that low because I cannot grab the strings, only touch them.

And I cannot recommend balsa wood under the bridge feet to get the bridge higher. But you can use several layers of hardwood (for example maple) shims that bend easily under the bridge feet. Not an ideal solution for the long run, but definitely better than your current solution and cheaper than installers and completely removable.
 
Last edited:
#6
DoubleMIDI said:
Most luthiers install adjusters to a normal bridge after the bridge feet were fitted to the top, because it would be very hard to do this with feet that can turn around any second. So if your bridge is still in a good condition (straight, not curved towards the fingerboard) installing adjusters is the cheapest and best solution to find the best bridge height for you playing your instrument.
6 to 9mm is good for steel core strings, but for synthetic core strings I would rather recommend 7 to 11 mm and for gut probably even more.
I wouldn't go below 5 to 8 mm personally, but I know people playing that low. I just cannot play pizz on setups that low because I cannot grab the strings, only touch them.

And I cannot recommend balsa wood under the bridge feet to get the bridge higher. But you can use several layers of hardwood (for example maple) shims that bend easily under the bridge feet. Not an ideal solution for the long run, but definitely better than your current solution and cheaper than installers and completely removable.
Click to expand...

I think you may have misunderstood. The balsa was put there because of the irregular shape of the indentations in the belly caused by years of maladjustment of the bridge. Balsa is soft so it is compliant but probably poor for sound transmission. I need to devise a way to fit a hardwood bridge that conforms to the distorted belly. Maybe epoxy a hardwood strip on the belly that a bridge can be fitted to?
 
#8
Randy Howard said:
I think you may have misunderstood. The balsa was put there because of the irregular shape of the indentations in the belly caused by years of maladjustment of the bridge.
Click to expand...

Indeed a misunderstanding. I might should have read a bit more carefully.

A few scratches that don't go in deep don't matter too much, but if parts of the uppermost ply layer (or even deeper) are missing ore very uneven, then a luthier should repair it if the instrument will have some value.

Have a look at the thread "Old Kay soundpost cannon" here in the Repair & Setup forum what James Condino did with a much more damaged ply top than yours.
 
#9
DoubleMIDI said:
Indeed a misunderstanding. I might should have read a bit more carefully.

A few scratches that don't go in deep don't matter too much, but if parts of the uppermost ply layer (or even deeper) are missing ore very uneven, then a luthier should repair it if the instrument will have some value.

Have a look at the thread "Old Kay soundpost cannon" here in the Repair & Setup forum what James Condino did with a much more damaged ply top than yours.
Click to expand...

The top is not scratched nor are pieces missing. Nothing is broken or missing. The feet of the bridge have indented the top fairly deeply so that fitting a new bridge would be nearly impossible. Think about stepping in snow and leaving a footprint and you will have a better idea of what I am trying to describe.
 
#10
It wouldn't be a problem to make the feet of a new bridge smaller, so they will fit into the dents. It might be a problem to do this with same distance between the feet. But there are bridges with different foot distances on the market.

A luthier might be able to remove the finish, glue a thin shim of the same kind wood there and finish this part again. As long as the bridge foot stays there it won't be visible.

I think it would be a good idea to ask a luthier.
How deep are the indents?
 
#14
If you really want to correct this issue, I believe the appropriate approach would be to remove the top and reinforce the caving top and bass bar so the top doesn't cave, then refit your bridge.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back