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Shim neck or not? - need opinions on that.

#81
202dy said:
That data was requested two days ago.

The best advice for you is to take this instrument to a pro.
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Sorry about that.
Here the data.

12th fret E 2,6mm / 0,102inch G 2,4mm / 0,094inch
last fret E 2,6mm / 0,102inch G 2,8 / 0,110inch
hold string on 3rd fret: 1st fret distance E and G 0,3mm / 0,012inch
holding no string: 1st string E 0,7mm / 0,028inch G 0,6mm / 0,024inch


Will speak to the guy at the Bass Clinic Freiburg next week.
 
#82
TigerInATrance said:
I'd shim the neck at the body end of the pocket and raise the back end of the neck up a bit. It shouldn't take much to get it just right. From the picture of the bridge I'd probably start with 1 business card thickness and be prepared to go to 2. In fact, business cards are exactly what I use when I shim a neck. I must have seven or eight boxes of 500 from old bands...
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that's exactly what i did to my bass. plays great now.
 
#83
i've had issues with the adjustment screws myself ... sharp thread edges hurt ..

i would remove those screws one at a time , gentle sand and smooth them down until they don't hurt your fingers ..

that simple fix helped me after installing a larger mass bridge .

i have an old fashion fender bridge that you can have if you want it ... just in case you'd want some extra saddle adjustment screws .. !! but we wouldn't know if those screws are the same size .. ????

deepening the top string nut a tiny bit helped me also ... i try to take my time and be very patient , ... as these tiny adjustments just make it feel a little better ...

i have also filed my bradge saddles a bit to lower them so the string sits completely down in the groove ... if you get it tooooo low , ... you can easily adjust it back up with the screws , then the screws are no longer an issue .. !?

do whatever YOU are comfortable doing .. !

i'd rather screw it up myself , .. than pay someone else to screw it up .. ! ha

Dave C.
 
#84
electracoyote said:
Best advice of the thread.

I know how shims work, I've shimmed basses, there is no denying that it is not rocket science. We all get that. But I've seen many cases where it was not the quick fix everyone seems to think it is, but a band-aid, and there were other issues on the bass that should have been adressed first.

Try the shim. If you're still having trouble, visit the tech.

Still not sure why that sentiment is so disagreeable.
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Thank you. Thank you very much.

Shims are used to change geometry. Anyone who recommends or installs a shim for any other reason doesn't get it. As you mention, all other problems should be addressed before shimming. One variable at a time or chaos and long, stupid internet threads will result.

Which sentiment is disagreeable? Shimming or pro techs? Mentioning either can and does promote spirited discussion around these parts.
 
#85
fendersurfer said:
Sorry about that.
Here the data.

12th fret E 2,6mm / 0,102inch G 2,4mm / 0,094inch
last fret E 2,6mm / 0,102inch G 2,8 / 0,110inch
hold string on 3rd fret: 1st fret distance E and G 0,3mm / 0,012inch
holding no string: 1st string E 0,7mm / 0,028inch G 0,6mm / 0,024inch


Will speak to the guy at the Bass Clinic Freiburg next week.
Click to expand...

For those in the USA:

6.5/64" (13/128") and 6/64" at the twelfth.
6.5/64" (13/128") and 7/64" at the last fret.

The answer is put a shim in the neck pocket. Then perform a complete set up.

Nut slots with string held down at F3: .003" is the goal.

The answer is to file the nut.

Last data string has no impact on set up. Do nothing.
 

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