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Shim neck or not? - need opinions on that.

#21
Low Main said:
Please note that the base plate on your newer style bridge is thicker than on the classic older style bent metal Fender bridges.
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This is absolutely true, I meant to mention it myself, and it can limit how low you can set your action.

Again, if all other factors have been addressed and you still can't get that action down without bottoming out, a shim will probably be your only choice if you want to keep that bridge plate.

I have switched out those thick bridge plates for the standard Fender Bent-L bridge plate, which is thinner.
 
#22
After i have done several shims, i really don't know what is all the problem and fear involved placing a shim? You don't even need to be a luthier to do that. Just take a look at google and see some recommendations (not over tighten, do not wiggle when placing back et etc?
But a non-experienced guy can do that. You don't like the way it play with shim? Try another one (slimmer or fatter). Just too much hesitation about something so easy to do. I didn't even know how to do that, went to google, saw some recommendations. And thats it!
 
#23
mantaraya said:
i really don't know what is all the problem and fear involved placing a shim?
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I missed the post where someone expressed fear. I saw where a couple of us suggested making sure all other set-up areas have been attended to, in addition to shimming, or perhaps instead. Because, let's face it, if you set your bass up correctly and it no longer needs a shim, why use one?

Also, if you jump straight to the shim without checking and curing other problems that may exist, you're not doing yourself any favors either.
 
#24
Yes, the bridge plate is thicker than the vintage bridges. But those HMV (that I have) are on every American Standard Model. But all pictures I find are with saddle on nice stilts, with screws even with the saddles or "sinked".
 
#25
It doesn't take much shim to drastically change the geometry. I use 1" masking tape. 2 layers at the heel, with a single layer further up the pocket. To maintain the same action, you'll raise your saddles +/- 1/8"
 
#26
fendersurfer said:
Yes, the bridge plate is thicker than the vintage bridges. But those HMV (that I have) are on every American Standard Model. But all pictures I find are with saddle on nice stilts, with screws even with the saddles or "sinked".
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I'm curious, for the sake of discussion, about your tech skill level. How much experience do you have setting up basses, and with aspects like leveling frets or modifying nut slots?
 
#30
fendersurfer said:
On the pictures I wanted to show the low saddles and sticking out screws.

I measures the neck bow, it was good. Spot on Fender spec.
The string height was 2,7mm on E and 2,2mm on G. That is 0,106 inch and 0,086 inch.
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Are those measurements at the last fret? Or at the twelfth fret? Both are needed to understand the current geometry of this guitar.

Thickness of bridge plates, height adjustment screws buried or sticking out of saddles, or any other descriptors are of little help here. Data begets good diagnoses. Everything else is guessing.
 
#31
Shims are a fact of life on bolt-on basses. I've seen Fender Custom Shop instruments with shims, and mind you it was not like a super classy shim with the name of the builder and a date stamp on it, it was a piece of folder fine grit sandpaper.


That makes me curious, you never hear of EBMM instruments with shims, do they have 'em?
 
#33
dmusic148 said:
Nah, it's done all the time. Hell, I've got a Modulus that cost quite a lot which came with a factory shim. No big deal.
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Yeah, I'd have to agree it's more a set-up tactic than a sign of a blatant flaw.

Although I'd much rather everything lined up the way they should, but sometimes they just don't.

From my experience, I'm speculating OP has a combination of things going on that may involve one or more of the following, to varying degrees: ski jump at the 15th fret, slightly high or uneven fret(s), and that thick bridge plate.
 
#34
electracoyote said:
From my experience, I'm speculating OP has a combination of things going on that may involve one or more of the following, to varying degrees: ski jump at the 15th fret, slightly high or uneven fret(s), and that thick bridge plate.
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Speculate is all anyone can do. There is no evidence of ski jumping at the fifteenth or any other fret, uneven frets, or the effects of a thick bridge plate or gamma rays. The OP has provide a few images and little data. Until that data is posted, there is no way to do anything but guess.
 
#37
Here is the data the OP provided: Bridge saddles lower than he'd like. Neck relief fine (he says he's comfortable/experienced with truss rod adjustments).

He's made no mention of any problems with the bass' playability other than his desire to have the saddles up higher. A shim will provide exactly that, won't harm the instrument in any way, is 100% reversible and won't cost anything. What would lead one to believe anything else is required here? Don't we have the data we need?
 
#40
Lo-E said:
Here is the data the OP provided: Bridge saddles lower than he'd like. Neck relief fine (he says he's comfortable/experienced with truss rod adjustments).

He's made no mention of any problems with the bass' playability other than his desire to have the saddles up higher. A shim will provide exactly that, won't harm the instrument in any way, is 100% reversible and won't cost anything. What would lead one to believe anything else is required here? Don't we have the data we need?
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Maybe for you.

But evidently for a couple of us on this thread, no.

202dy said:
The OP has provide a few images and little data. Until that data is posted, there is no way to do anything but guess.
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