Shimming a long neck pocket?

[KB5]

I have a 1990 5 string Tobias Killer B that needs a slight neck shim. I am uncertain as to the best was to proceed as the neck pocket is very long at almost 4". It probably only needs a quarter to half a degree to get the action where it needs to be. I am paranoid about shimming improperly and developing a ski jump. I assume a full length shim would be optimal. Are shims available that would be long enough? Are there any other things I should be concerned with?

Previously I had no issues with the action as I was using taper wound strings on the B and E. I could go back to the taper wounds but I I really like these new strings.

 

[johnh89]

No need for a full length shim . Either end as required where the screws pass through has been fine on every bass I have ever done

 

[Turnaround]

I have a 1990 5 string Tobias Killer B that needs a slight neck shim. I am uncertain as to the best was to proceed as the neck pocket is very long at almost 4". It probably only needs a quarter to half a degree to get the action where it needs to be. I am paranoid about shimming improperly and developing a ski jump. I assume a full length shim would be optimal. Are shims available that would be long enough? Are there any other things I should be concerned with?

Previously I had no issues with the action as I was using taper wound strings on the B and E. I could go back to the taper wounds but I I really like these new strings.

A partial shim does not create a ski jump- that’s a myth

 

[Bruce Johnson]

I have a 1990 5 string Tobias Killer B that needs a slight neck shim. I am uncertain as to the best was to proceed as the neck pocket is very long at almost 4". It probably only needs a quarter to half a degree to get the action where it needs to be. I am paranoid about shimming improperly and developing a ski jump. I assume a full length shim would be optimal. Are shims available that would be long enough? Are there any other things I should be concerned with?

Previously I had no issues with the action as I was using taper wound strings on the B and E. I could go back to the taper wounds but I I really like these new strings.

I'll back up what Richard (Turnaround) said: Partial shims do not cause ski jumps. That's a myth that keeps getting passed around, for some reason. Don't worry about that.

From here, it sounds like you need a shim about 0.015-0.020" thick under the back end of the heel. Just a strip going across the back end of the neck pocket, behind the last bolt holes. Round off the corners of the shim as needed to fit into the corners of the pocket. As a quick guess of the geometry of that bass, the shim will raise the saddles at a 1:4 ratio. That is, a 0.015" shim will raise your saddles about 0.060". About 1/16". Is that about what you want?

A Tobias is a stiff frame bass, with real good clarity and frequency range. For that reason, I recommend that you use metal for the shim. Aluminum would be my choice, but brass or steel would be fine if you happen to have some around. I don't recommend using a soft cardboard shim on a bass like this. A squishy shim is usually okay in a Fender, but it can harm the sound of a Tobias.

The best thing is to get some 0.015" aluminum or brass strip stock at a hobby shop. Cut out a shim with scissors. Place it in the end of the pocket and tighten it down. See if that gets you to the saddle height you want. If not, make another one of a different thickness. No harm to the bass.

It sounds tacky, but the aluminum from soda cans and beer cans makes pretty good shim material too. It's normally 0.006" thick. Three pieces will get you 0.018".

 

[KB5]

I'll back up what Richard (Turnaround) said: Partial shims do not cause ski jumps. That's a myth that keeps getting passed around, for some reason. Don't worry about that.

From here, it sounds like you need a shim about 0.015-0.020" thick under the back end of the heel. Just a strip going across the back end of the neck pocket, behind the last bolt holes. Round off the corners of the shim as needed to fit into the corners of the pocket. As a quick guess of the geometry of that bass, the shim will raise the saddles at a 1:4 ratio. That is, a 0.015" shim will raise your saddles about 0.060". About 1/16". Is that about what you want?

A Tobias is a stiff frame bass, with real good clarity and frequency range. For that reason, I recommend that you use metal for the shim. Aluminum would be my choice, but brass or steel would be fine if you happen to have some around. I don't recommend using a soft cardboard shim on a bass like this. A squishy shim is usually okay in a Fender, but it can harm the sound of a Tobias.

The best thing is to get some 0.015" aluminum or brass strip stock at a hobby shop. Cut out a shim with scissors. Place it in the end of the pocket and tighten it down. See if that gets you to the saddle height you want. If not, make another one of a different thickness. No harm to the bass.

It sounds tacky, but the aluminum from soda cans and beer cans makes pretty good shim material too. It's normally 0.006" thick. Three pieces will get you 0.018".

Thanks for the great tips Bruce! An extra .060" at the saddles would be great. I have steel shim stock available in 0.015" from an old garage sale feeler gauge set that will be perfect. I've had this bass for 33 years and it's the only one I have never been able to part with because the neck is just perfect for me.

 

[JLS]

I have a 1990 5 string Tobias Killer B that needs a slight neck shim. I am uncertain as to the best was to proceed as the neck pocket is very long at almost 4". It probably only needs a quarter to half a degree to get the action where it needs to be. I am paranoid about shimming improperly and developing a ski jump. I assume a full length shim would be optimal. Are shims available that would be long enough? Are there any other things I should be concerned with?

Previously I had no issues with the action as I was using taper wound strings on the B and E. I could go back to the taper wounds but I I really like these new strings.

Shimming does NOT cause ski jumps. Period.

 

[Lesfunk]

Shim induced ski jumps are like ghosts .
Technically they do not exist, until you see them yourself, then you cannot be convinced otherwise

 

[bobdabilder]

Use a full length hardwood or metal shim.