I had the MIC Fender Starcaster bass for a couple of years. 30” scale. Would swap between that and my PJ regularly. Never even noticed the difference in scale length. Guess I’m just not sensitive to aspect of playing bass.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Short Scale Journey Didn't Last Long
- Thread starter socknroll1
- Start date
What type of straps were you using? I had neck dive problems with smooth leather or fabric straps, but once I went to leather with a suede backing, I've never had a Mustang or other short scale have any neck dive problems.
you should order one of these, custom order. Just got it (last Sunday) Maruszczyk Elwood
balance very well and sounds like a regular scaled bass.
Clear, thunderous, and well defined.
oh BTW, it's only 7.27 lbs
Love it.
Attachments
check this one out
and the configurator is here Elwood C - Type | Public Peace
you can literally create whatever comes to your mind
and the configurator is here Elwood C - Type | Public Peace
you can literally create whatever comes to your mind
The original poster seems to be blaming the shorter scale for the neck dive of those basses. No, it would be even worse if the neck were four inches longer, so the fault is in the body. Sorry if this is too obvious, but that's the impression I had.
QUOTE="mongo2, post: 24457566, member: 110902"]In my 50+ years of playing I've used scales ranging from 18" (Guild Ashbory) to 41" (Upright). I've had only one long scale that didn't have a deadspot (a DIY build using a very stiff Allparts neck) and one shortscale that did have a deadspot. The even response of my short scales is my primary reason for continuing to use them.[/QUOTE]
That's why I'm reconsidering them now. Thank you.
QUOTE="mongo2, post: 24457566, member: 110902"]In my 50+ years of playing I've used scales ranging from 18" (Guild Ashbory) to 41" (Upright). I've had only one long scale that didn't have a deadspot (a DIY build using a very stiff Allparts neck) and one shortscale that did have a deadspot. The even response of my short scales is my primary reason for continuing to use them.[/QUOTE]
That's why I'm reconsidering them now. Thank you.
I never noticed any neck dive on the Mustangs I've played nor on the Gretsch LP I have. That's usually not a complaint you here with those basses. The SG well that's a different story. I have to agree dive has nothing to do with scale length. This sounds like a type of strap or body design issue.
- Sep 4, 2010
- 3,304
- 2,730
- Disclosures
- Endorsing: Martin Keith Guitars
Try a Danelectro Longhorn. Fine balance, sounds great, very lively if you want it to with rounds, while equally great with flats.
The thing I find a bit tricky as a 55 yr old with a bit of gut, is playing fingerstyle on it due to the positioning, but it can be done, and its ergonomically perfect for playing with a pick.
The thing I find a bit tricky as a 55 yr old with a bit of gut, is playing fingerstyle on it due to the positioning, but it can be done, and its ergonomically perfect for playing with a pick.
My Mustang has no dive. I had a SG that did but a leather strap with the natural rough leather backing took care of it.
Short scale isn’t for everyone for whatever reason.
Some people feel like a circus bear, others feel cramped,
and @JeezyMcNuggles is a Big Boy who has outgrown us kids.
But that’s what makes the world go around.
I own 5 and have no problem with any of them including my SG,
but if it ain’t your thing, it ain’t your thing….057912
My desire to try a short scale stems from an injury and subsequent surgery to my left wrist and elbow. Prior to that i always covered four frets with my left hand. Now, my pinky finger is non functional as a fretting finger so i’m down to three fingers. I want a particular bass but i refuse to participate in the current fiasco that saw that imported bass jump from $750 brand new with case to around $1200 for the same bass and case, so i decided to just relearn with three fingers. If we ever return to some sense of sanity i’ll buy that short scale, but until then i’ll keep relearning my left hand.
1)
From 34" to 30":
Take the 12th fret as the point of reference.
The nut comes back 2". That's good with regard to neck dive.
The bridge comes forward 2", still no problem with regard to neck dive.
But then the designer - whether for other stylistic reasons (SG/EB) or anticipating complaints that the bass looks out of proportion - removes the extra body that had been behind the bridge. That's a problem. And if the designer also removes some or most of the upper horn, then that's an even worse problem. You can see both of these, for example in the photo of the product above, without even picking up the bass.
These problems result from cultural attachment to the proportions of products of the past, and by the presumption of almost all designers (probably proven through experience) that most people care less about imbalance because it can't be seen, and buy the appearance and tradition.
2)
In every thread about neck dive there's confusion about something that never gets cleared up:
- Some people say that a better strap (or threading it through a pants loop, etc) fixes neck dive. What they mean is that the neck is prevented from actually diving, well enough.
- But other people still feel that the neck wants to dive, and is tugging on their shoulder annoyingly, and they call this neck dive, and I understand that.
For that second group, what must happen is either a) non-standard or improvised hanger locations, but most people shy away from that because of the appearance, and/or b) adding/hanging weight near the rear hanger (even better would be adding weight behind the rear hangar (farther from the nut), but again people don't want to look funny).
Removing 1/2 pound from the headstock with res-o-lites and adding 1/2 pound at the back hanger would probably fix most of these, if they have an upper horn.
From 34" to 30":
Take the 12th fret as the point of reference.
The nut comes back 2". That's good with regard to neck dive.
The bridge comes forward 2", still no problem with regard to neck dive.
But then the designer - whether for other stylistic reasons (SG/EB) or anticipating complaints that the bass looks out of proportion - removes the extra body that had been behind the bridge. That's a problem. And if the designer also removes some or most of the upper horn, then that's an even worse problem. You can see both of these, for example in the photo of the product above, without even picking up the bass.
These problems result from cultural attachment to the proportions of products of the past, and by the presumption of almost all designers (probably proven through experience) that most people care less about imbalance because it can't be seen, and buy the appearance and tradition.
2)
In every thread about neck dive there's confusion about something that never gets cleared up:
- Some people say that a better strap (or threading it through a pants loop, etc) fixes neck dive. What they mean is that the neck is prevented from actually diving, well enough.
- But other people still feel that the neck wants to dive, and is tugging on their shoulder annoyingly, and they call this neck dive, and I understand that.
For that second group, what must happen is either a) non-standard or improvised hanger locations, but most people shy away from that because of the appearance, and/or b) adding/hanging weight near the rear hanger (even better would be adding weight behind the rear hangar (farther from the nut), but again people don't want to look funny).
Removing 1/2 pound from the headstock with res-o-lites and adding 1/2 pound at the back hanger would probably fix most of these, if they have an upper horn.
A few years ago I purchased a Squier Jaguar short scale bass for $125.00 (new). I spent about the same amount modifying it (DiMarzio pickups, new pots, etc.). That was a great little bass: light, no neck-dive, great sound, etc. Then I joined a band and I felt self-conscious about playing a cheap-o short scale, so I sold it. I regret that, it was a fun little bass.
Attachments
When selecting a short scale, pay attention to the bridge position and the upper horn strap location. To get a similar feel to a longer scale instrument, you want the bridge pushed about 2" towards the nut and the upper horn strap location around the 14the fret. That will still be less reach to the first fret than a 34" scale instrument like a traditional P or J, but won't be a cramped feeling when playing.
(I could have edited out the feet, but given the recent thread on feet in pics decided to leave them and considered painting my toenails. Heh.) The basses are lined up better in reality than in the pic due to wide angle distortions.
(I could have edited out the feet, but given the recent thread on feet in pics decided to leave them and considered painting my toenails. Heh.) The basses are lined up better in reality than in the pic due to wide angle distortions.
Last edited:
--- 
i'd qualify as a "consider-er" but i've never owned one. i'm not including the ashbory instrument that i had briefly, years ago --- it was 'too different'. when i had severe shoulder issues i thought a lot about SS axes and whether they would be better/easier to play. but i've stuck it out with the 34" scale and modified them when necessary. since that process keeps working i'll stay with it until it doesn't.
that said: i wouldn't hesitate to go short/medium scale if that was the only route that allowed me to stay in the game. i'd have to modify some playing style/technique, i think, but no biggie.
congrats for finding what works for you.
for me, I've owned several shorties, all that work for me.
currently rocking my Acinonyx, and expecting a G&L Tribute Fallout any day now.
for me, I've owned several shorties, all that work for me.
currently rocking my Acinonyx, and expecting a G&L Tribute Fallout any day now.
There's a bunch-o-basses without neck dive. As mentioned, Maruszczyk and Birdsong. Also Lakland, SX, Schecter, Spector, Conklin, Ibanez and others. Tons of short scale options these days.
