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Short scale semi-hollow body build
- Thread starter Jisch
- Start date
As I said before my plan is to dye the maple, but leave the ash undyed. I am concerned about getting a clean line between the two, considering it's water based dye and wood likes to absorb water. I figured the boundary that has glue on it will be protected, but it's the surface that will be prone to capillary action.
I did a rough sanding of a cut off, taped off the maple and applied varnish to the ash
After that was dry I taped off the ash, wet down the maple (to raise the grain), sanded it back using 320 then applied a heavy dose of dye. I purposely used a lot, just to stress the system. I think this is about as clean a line as I could expect.
So I consider this a successful test. After I've got the dye correct, I will coat the dyed side with varnish to seal it before I add the clear or Tru Oil (still undecided on that).
I did a rough sanding of a cut off, taped off the maple and applied varnish to the ash
After that was dry I taped off the ash, wet down the maple (to raise the grain), sanded it back using 320 then applied a heavy dose of dye. I purposely used a lot, just to stress the system. I think this is about as clean a line as I could expect.
So I consider this a successful test. After I've got the dye correct, I will coat the dyed side with varnish to seal it before I add the clear or Tru Oil (still undecided on that).
Dunno if it helps but I've been told that this stuff is far better than the blue tape at preventing bleed...
FrogTape Painter's Tape | FrogTape
Another lunch another 45 minutes in the shop. I got more nipping done, that won't show in pictures, I also got the ferrules and inserts done.
I've used frog tape before, it's a lot better than boggo masking tape, but it's not a silver bullet you still have to be careful
Thanks, me too!
It's good that it's relatively slow at work (and I work from home) I can sneak into the shop and do small things. I may actually get this one mostly finished before the build off, but definitely not completely finished, so there will be a gap between Friday and completion for sure.
I did a 1/4" roundover (I think it's 1/4), it looks great, I'm not going more rounded than this unless someone can convince me (and my wife) otherwise.
Lots of finish sanding left, the heel needs a lot more than that.
Lots of finish sanding left, the heel needs a lot more than that.
I spent an hour sanding this morning, I started with 80 grit, the gouge and oscillating drum sander to work out any obvious bumps, then moved to 120. I took off quite a bit of material behind the bridge and rounded that over more. I left room for the bridge until after I got the neck pocket done, just in case I needed to move the bridge back, now that I have a definitive position I could round right up to the edge of the bridge.
As I sanded with 120 I found additional spots to smooth out. At this point I have most of the body shaped the way I want it. As usual at this stage I'll spend a day looking at it from every possible angle and marking with a pencil where there are issues. That joint between the neck pocket and the bass side horn is a pain the butt to smooth out, it's so tight and there are some bandsaw blade marks in there. That and the heel are the two places that probably need additional work. I had three worm holes that needed filling so I dropped some CA in those as well, anywhere there's ambrosia in maple, there's a worm hole. I'm sure this pic won't look substantially different than those above, but in person that hour of sanding precipitated a pretty serious transformation, from rough to smooth.
And I clamped some ears on the headstock, this will need to be planed down using a router sled, always exciting and treacherous! I'll put some maple over the front, at this point I don't plan on putting a cap on the back, but I might. As always the headstock shape is a concern. I should start working on that on paper.
As I sanded with 120 I found additional spots to smooth out. At this point I have most of the body shaped the way I want it. As usual at this stage I'll spend a day looking at it from every possible angle and marking with a pencil where there are issues. That joint between the neck pocket and the bass side horn is a pain the butt to smooth out, it's so tight and there are some bandsaw blade marks in there. That and the heel are the two places that probably need additional work. I had three worm holes that needed filling so I dropped some CA in those as well, anywhere there's ambrosia in maple, there's a worm hole. I'm sure this pic won't look substantially different than those above, but in person that hour of sanding precipitated a pretty serious transformation, from rough to smooth.
And I clamped some ears on the headstock, this will need to be planed down using a router sled, always exciting and treacherous! I'll put some maple over the front, at this point I don't plan on putting a cap on the back, but I might. As always the headstock shape is a concern. I should start working on that on paper.
Take the sliver of wood out on the bottom on the treble or bass side? There's one on both sides :-D
I always think of top and bottom as if I'm standing up with the bass, so by bottom I meant the treble side. The one on the bass side looks more meaty.
Obviously this is only my opinion
Funny, I usually completely remove that piece, but left it here for some reason. I'll think about it. Thanks.
Ok, the more round over votes won me over. 3/4" this time, I'll admit it looks better.
After I get it all sanded it will be "more", but there's very little left by the control cavity cover, so I don't think I can actually do much more of a roundover than this.More, more more.....
