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Double Bass Should I Be Worried?

matdras

matdras

Dec 18, 2011
469
436
Fort Collins, Colorado
#1
E8F456B6-A8E6-4765-AAB8-0444A3FAB097.jpeg
Howdy, TalkBass friends. So this bass is about six months old, and was purchased new from a reputable luthier. It has been cared for as well as I am capable of, and I’ve closely followed his instructions, along with some recommendations from TB (storage, humidity, etc.) I’m obviously going to give him a call first thing Monday morning, but I am first humbly coming to you for advice…

Today I noticed this small crack on the bass side top near the endpin. It feels like something greater than a surface scratch, but perhaps not through the entire top.

Colorado is a moisture black hole this time of year, and the instrument is still in it's infancy - is it reasonable to believe that something like this could sometimes be expected and may just be growing pains, or should I immediately assume the fetal position in the corner of a dark room?

I’m cool with a bass that has a little natural mojo, but I’m not fine with a new bass that has significant structural damage. It will be monitored closely over the next several days…
 
#2
You should not be worried. If it's a carved top it's going to crack eventually, and this time of year is cracking season with the humidity low.

Get the crack stabilized before it travels further and you might want to think about getting a humidifier and/or damp-its (if you don't already) to reduce to chance of future cracks like this.
 
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#3
If you’re worried or humidity is going to be especially low, slack the strings and let the soundpost fall to reduce tension on the table. The crack shouldn’t travel if you do.

That’s an easy, cheap repair and should be nearly invisible if done well. The worry is that if the crack travels, it could run parallel to the bass bar, which is a high stress area.

How do you heat your home? If you have forced air, buy a cool mist humidifier with a digital gauge, large reservoir and clean it often.
 
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#5
A few dollars now will save a lot of dollars later. The crack must be close to lining up with the bass bar and the longer it gets the harder it will be to fix. Here the usual approach is to drill tiny holes at intervals through the crack and one in line with and just past the top of the crack, then pull small glue-coated patches into place inside with thin fishing line. The front does not need to come off and it is a small job for a luthier, even one you could do yourself if necessary. Later, when the top does have to come off, the work can be neatened up or easily redone.
 
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#7
That crack looks like it is right on the edge of the bottom block. I would be concerned that the side seams were glued on with a too strong formulation of hot glue. I also live in Colorado, and the first year I brought my basd to the state from North Carolina most of the seams blew open for which I was grateful for. Winter time is a great time for your luthier to pop open seams relieve stress and reglue them down.
 
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#8
Thanks for your input! I’m a couple decades into my bass journey, but far more green on the upright, so the advice is greatly appreciated.

We do have forced air heating in our home, and I have multiple room humidifiers going late fall through early spring, but I’ll have to re-evaluate their placement.

And it’s very cool to hear everyone’s stories about their own instruments - definitely broadens my perspective on this sort of issue.
 
#9
Not trying to catastrophize but, as several have mentioned, the crack is definitely in line with the bass bar. In fact, there's a good chance it was caused by tension in the bass bar.

You really need to look at the total length of the crack, and even a hint of a crack counts. By my eye, it's already about 2.5", meaning you're getting close to the bottom of the bass bar. And if the crack travels under the bass bar you are no longer looking at a simple repair.

Is the seller nearby? I think they would want to fix this now, rather than waiting for plan B.
 
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#12
Being a luthier who has worked on many old and new basses, I can’t stress enough on NOT using a dampit. No matter how careful one is at the amount of water absorbed in the sponge, it always drips down on the lower ribs and end block. If used long enough, mold starts with the possibility of the ribs warping. If you have a dedicated room for your bass, buy a small humidifier and a good hydrometer. Keep the relative humidity around 40%.

The placement of your crack is very common on basses when it gets dry.
The thickness of the top is at it’s thinnest near the edges, and it’s near the end of the bass bar, and the end block. In other words, it’s pretty rigid in that area, and when the top contracts for lack of moisture it has no where to go.

I’ve found the best way to repair that crack, is to open up the seam between the top and rib. That will allow the crack to close, because nothing is holding it open any more. A rectangle shaped cleat, called a bandaid cleat should be used to support the top at that point, and to keep it from traveling further towards the bass bar.
Eric is a fine luthier, and I’m sure will do an excellent repair.
 
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#14
JKoehler said:
Being a luthier who has worked on many old and new basses, I can’t stress enough on NOT using a dampit. No matter how careful one is at the amount of water absorbed in the sponge, it always drips down on the lower ribs and end block. If used long enough, mold starts with the possibility of the ribs warping.
Click to expand...

While I'm not a luthier, I respectfully disagree with the above. I used dampits for many years and they never dripped or caused mold inside my bass. You have to be careful, for sure, but it can be done. That said, I understand why many folks don't like them. They also might not provide enough humidity in a really dry climate to be very useful. Just my two cents, as always.
 
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#16
JKoehler said:
I’ve found the best way to repair that crack, is to open up the seam between the top and rib. That will allow the crack to close...
Click to expand...

Hi JK,

I noticed after my last post that the crack doesn't actually reach the edge. Check the pic and you'll see that it only runs north of the purfling, towards the bass bar. You're right about the rigidity in the area, but stress from the bass bar is definitely adding to the problem. You could open up the seam, but that would likely open up the crack further (to the edge, where it isn't currently). That may turn out to be necessary to work on the area.

Hopefully it's all easily salvageable. And Matdras's luthier - I don't see any need to bring names into the conversation - will no doubt know what to do!
 
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#17
My apologies if my posts have hinted at anything negative towards my luthier - after bringing the bass in today, I feel pretty confident that it will be properly repaired without having to spend an obscene amount of money. Compared to several others I have played, the bass sounds both clear and enormous, and it will continue to be cherished when it returns home.

I very much appreciate the wealth of knowledge shared in this thread. I always brag to my coworkers about how amazing the TalkBass community is, but they still think I’m crazy…
 
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