Yep, that's probably the intention. I had an old Gotoh tele replacement bridge from the late 80s that had instructions that said just that. To get more travel, cut the bolt, file the top threads smooth and reinsert.
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Should I document my kit builds here?
- Thread starter Markshan
- Start date
Convenient, lolYep, that's probably the intention. I had an old Gotoh tele replacement bridge from the late 80s that had instructions that said just that. To get more travel, cut the bolt, file the top threads smooth and reinsert.
I just spent about 45 minutes bashing out chords on this and I am very pleased. I'll try to get up some glamor shots at some point and maybe even ask the guitar player in my band to play a few licks on a video (trust me you don't want to hear me playing) but in the meantime hopefully this picture will suffice.
$89 for the kit, 50 bucks worth of chemicals, maybe $300 worth of new tools, probably a thousand dollars of labor and in the end I have an instrument that I'm reasonably sure is worth at least $150, lol.
It is no longer a project. It is now a guitar. A rather attractive one if I do say so myself.
$89 for the kit, 50 bucks worth of chemicals, maybe $300 worth of new tools, probably a thousand dollars of labor and in the end I have an instrument that I'm reasonably sure is worth at least $150, lol.
It is no longer a project. It is now a guitar. A rather attractive one if I do say so myself.
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Yep that's exactly the point. I could actually recommend the Bex Gears kit as a path to a decent inexpensive guitar. It didn't have any of the problems that I hear about with cheap kits. But at the same time, if you want to make it nice, the sky's the limit. I like to think I did a little more than probably what the average kit builder is going to do. Yes, the experience was great fun and I fully expect to do more and improve my skills as I go.
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Thanks. I wish there was a way that everyone who has followed this could play it.
That copper does look pretty sharp against the green. Unfortunately, the only tele hardware I could find in a quick google search was more bronze colored. But still might be worth looking at if you're so inclined (or the stock hardware proves more irritating down the road).
A whole kit - https://www.amazon.com/Bronze-Elect...43&mcid=96aaa738dcb13f61bd2d3ada720d47de&th=1
Just the bridge - Tele ® Bridge Distressed Copper / Bronze Finish Ashtray Style String Thru or Top Load | Reverb
A Bill Lawrence pickup with the bridge - 8th Street Music - Bill Lawrence Copper T Bridge and Pickup
A whole kit - https://www.amazon.com/Bronze-Elect...43&mcid=96aaa738dcb13f61bd2d3ada720d47de&th=1
Just the bridge - Tele ® Bridge Distressed Copper / Bronze Finish Ashtray Style String Thru or Top Load | Reverb
A Bill Lawrence pickup with the bridge - 8th Street Music - Bill Lawrence Copper T Bridge and Pickup
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Or, instead of the trouble and expense of switching over all the hardware, perhaps I could experiment with copper colored pickguards.
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I think tortoise shell would be too busy with the green wood already being so busy. I think the thing that works about the white that is there is that it's one solid color. Perhaps this would work. The description is a little confusing it says that it's aluminum plate, but it also says that it's bronze. If it's finished similarly to an aluminum can where it has almost the plastic feel to it I would probably like that. If it's actual bronze I wouldn't care for that so much.
https://www.amazon.com/Alnicov-Pick...1&psc=1&mcid=adeae82d2ba6326e88d17d7337f8e239
https://www.amazon.com/Alnicov-Pick...1&psc=1&mcid=adeae82d2ba6326e88d17d7337f8e239
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Comments in the Amazon listing say the color is anodized aluminum.
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I do like the ebonite fingerboard.The copper looks really good against the green, but I suspect black would also look really clean, sharp and almost dressy. It would accentuate the green and the grain IMHO.
I thought I would be spending the evening tonight watching Sunday Night football and making a nut for my Beatle bass. However, as I was playing this I noticed that since this is not an ashtray tail piece my hand would occasionally hit the height screws. And I also noticed they had a couple burrs on them. So I thought to myself I guess that's the difference between cheap hardware and good hardware and I got out my little vice and my file took off a saddle and filed off the burr. So then I said to myself I've gone this far I might as well go get the hacksaw and cut these screws too while I'm doing this. So I cut the screws just a couple centimeters each so that instead of being intonated enough they could be fully intonated and now if I switch strings and they need to go a little bit further they're not all the way at the end of their throw. I guess it really is the little details that separate okay from good.
