My opinion: I'd probably use the larger crown with the 'Galemark' beside it in the larger font. Personally, I'd ditch the slogan, but only because it's been copyrighted and trademarked by Hallmark since the 1940s.
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Should I document my kit builds here?
- Thread starter Markshan
- Start date
Side by side uses more room. Vertically stacking requires smaller graphic and text.
Either strategy is valid -- a large and readable logo helps people remember who built the guitar (make the logo bigger!), a small logo lets the headstock look less busy. It depends on what you're angling for.
Well yeah, but you don't want me to have a conversation about copyright law. That would take the whole thread way off course.My opinion: I'd probably use the larger crown with the 'Galemark' beside it in the larger font. Personally, I'd ditch the slogan, but only because it's been copyrighted and trademarked by Hallmark since the 1940s.
What the mind retains of a colored surface is usually a more homogeneous impression.
The upper four color swatches here are individual pixels sampled from the green area of the headstock. The lower two swatches are averaged color values of two comparatively large samples. You can see how the lower swatches are closer to each other. That's likely to be closer to the impression of the color the average onlooker is going to retain when they're comparing it to your logo.*
*(usual caveats of uncalibrated images and screens, unscientific sampling, etc ad nauseum)
I like the separate crown and name with no slogan. I wonder how it would look if the bottom of the name was parallel with the line of the cutout on the headstock?
That bottom Swatch actually has me feeling pretty good about the color I landed on.
Do you mean parable with the cove that I cut or parallel with the upper edge where the tuners sit? It's funny to me because in my mind's eye I saw the telly headstock having the word fender running with the midline but then when I went and searched I found out that it actually moved a couple of times and it seems the majority of them run parallel with the tuners.
Parallel with the cove (the word “cove” escaped me for a minute). Just a thought, it might look worse.
Cool, but remember you're looking through an uncalibrated monitor at an uncalibrated screengrab of an uncalibrated photo that was not taken in controlled lighting... all done in RGB color space, which your printer can't handle
So basically the actual color value is only being relayed back to you through a game of telephone.
I was thinking about why fender would have made their logo parallel with the tuners rather than having it running with the edge that it sits next to. What I came up with is that if they had run it parallel with that edge, or if I run it parallel with the cove, when it's hanging or sitting in a guitar stand that the logo will be basically upside down. I think that must be the reason that they made the choice they did and it's also the reason that I'm going to go with having it run parallel to the midline of the instrument.
Well, this is a drag. I was really hoping to get this done today because I am off Wednesday and it's supposed to be 72 degrees out. It would have been the perfect time for me to spray the top coat. I printed this decal two days ago so I don't think that's the issue. I've done a few of these but never had this happen before. Do we think this is more likely because of the ink or the decal paper? It seems I'll have to replace one or the other.
Okay I know where I screwed up. I hadn't done one of these in quite some time, so I watched a video just to refresh my memory. However, that video used pre-printed decals. So it never mentioned but after you print the decal but before you dip the decal you need to spray a coat of clear coat to keep the water from destroying the ink. So I'm going to print one now and then hopefully I can give it a spray at like 10:30 tomorrow and lacquer dries pretty quick so I think I should be able to apply it by 11:30 before I leave for work. Then I'll be able to spray the entire headstock on Wednesday as I had planned.
I am not at all unhappy with the way this turned out. As you'll see from the first picture, at the right angle my work is nearly invisible and fairly attractive if I do say so myself. When the light hits it right though, as you'll see in the second picture, the difference in reflection on both the decal and my touch up "paint" make the work very obvious. It's My Hope that when I spray the clear coat tomorrow all of that becomes much more uniform in the way it reacts to light hitting it. Plus I expect the lacquer will likely darken up the cove a little and make it a closer match to the lettering but we'll find out tomorrow, God willing.
So, as I stated above I was really hoping that spraying the clear coat would make everything more uniform. It actually had the opposite effect unfortunately. The decal looks more like a decal now and the cover up paste that I mixed together is more obvious now than it was before. I think next time I use a water slide decal on wood, I will give it one coat of whatever clear coat I'm using ahead of applying the sticker. It seems like what happened is the clear coat made the maple look more golden but the area under the sticker still looks the same as it did before. And of course in the future when I do decorative cutting I will consider the idea that I may be creating new end grains and deal with them properly. I don't want to have to keep trying to match colors with cover up. In spite of all that I am still not terribly unhappy with it but like I said in my very first post I'm doing these kits to learn and this is definitely a couple good lessons I've taken away from this. The one thing the clear lacquer really did help was the green dye on the cove. It really pops now.
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A little piece of me is tempted to sand the high spots just a touch and give another coat but I don't trust myself to not get carried away and sand into the logo.
