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Show me your compact pedalboard setup

@Zbysek I didn't get to spend a lot of time putting them head to head as we were getting ready for a show this week. From the little time I had them A/B'd I noticed this - the ODR-mini tends to have a creamier texture of drive, and a particular snort that I wasn't able to (quickly) dial in on the Belle. The Color knobs behave just a little differently, and on that, I think I prefer the Color on the ODR.

The ODR also has a ton of compression once you hit a certain threshold of gain - if you boost into it, the texture of the drive changes without getting significantly louder. Not saying it's good or bad, but it wasn't what I expected at first, and could be a useful behavior to exploit. The Belle has a switch to change the clipping circuit so that it doesn't compress as much so you get the harder drive and the volume boost. I think the Belle will also do that, but I didn't mess around with settings long enough to compare that setting.

The other thing the Belle has is the Bass control. I think it's more of a cut than a boost. The Color knob (on both pedals) extends or cuts BOTH the highs and lows. Using the Bass control with the Color knob allows you a little more fine control with dialing in your sound - at 'low Color' settings you can add back a bit of low end, and in 'high Color' settings you can pull just a bit of low out so it's not overwhelming. I liked this to be able to pull back just a touch of highs with the Color, and retain the 'max lows' with the Bass control.

The next thing I'm going to try is re-ordering my drives to see if I can get them to stack in a way I like.
 
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Thank you for the thorough response...

@Zbysek The ODR also has a ton of compression once you hit a certain threshold of gain - if you boost into it, the texture of the drive changes without getting significantly louder. Not saying it's good or bad, but it wasn't what I expected at first, and could be a useful behavior
That's exactly what I find usefull about ODR (mini): the ability to change the saturation by boosting the signal entering the pedal without significant change in volume level...
 
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No idea what version of my mini board I am up to, but here it is.
Back to my slightly larger home made Nano (10mm wider and deeper) from a RB Duo 2.0
Signal chain is Pure Boost - Tuner - mThump (underneath) - Loop box with Oct/OD/Wah in the loop - Comp - Chorus - Tonex One - SB2 DI - Modele B.
Modele B will be a gain stage only for my Powered cab/stage monitor, hence being after the DI.
Just put the Pure Boost and Tonex on the board, then had to get to work. Will get to try it tomorrow. Power is all daisy chained. Tried it without the Tonex earlier in the week and it was quiet - hopefully that is still the case. If not, plan B is to run the Tonex from the battery and everything else from a one spot, until I can work out if there is a power supply that will fit under the board and be suitable. I am not hopeful.

Planning on put a clean and dirty amp sim in the Tonex one. If I am happy with that the Obsessive OD might get switched out for a Mosky Black Rat, or Crazy Tone, something a bit fuzzier for synth tones. Has to be a Mosky pedal to fit this board.

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I recently acquired a UA Apollo interface for my home setup so yesterday I took some time to rebuild my pedalboard. I removed my SGT-DI (moved that to the smaller board that I keep at work) and added a Barber Linden EQ. I also switched out the UA LA-2A for a UA Max for greater versatility:

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Everything is mounted on a Temple Duo 24 and powered by a Cioks DC-7 underneath. The signal comes in and leaves the board through a Temple 1/4 mod on the right side. Path is Strobostomp > Max > @Jim Hagerman Valve ‘25 edition > Linden > MXR VBO > Earthquaker Blumes > Boss CEB 2 > Boss BF 3 > @Sushi Box FX Finally V2.

When playing into an amp, saturation comes from the 610 preamp in the Max and the tube pedals, and dirt from the Blumes.

When playing into the Apollo I keep the tubes in the chain and usually play into a recreation of a UA or Neve channel strip.
 
I recently acquired a UA Apollo interface for my home setup so yesterday I took some time to rebuild my pedalboard. I removed my SGT-DI (moved that to the smaller board that I keep at work) and added a Barber Linden EQ. I also switched out the UA LA-2A for a UA Max for greater versatility:

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Everything is mounted on a Temple Duo 24 and powered by a Cioks DC-7 underneath. The signal comes in and leaves the board through a Temple 1/4 mod on the right side. Path is Strobostomp > Max > @Jim Hagerman Valve ‘25 edition > Linden > MXR VBO > Earthquaker Blumes > Boss CEB 2 > Boss BF 3 > @Sushi Box FX Finally V2.

When playing into an amp, saturation comes from the 610 preamp in the Max and the tube pedals, and dirt from the Blumes.

When playing into the Apollo I keep the tubes in the chain and usually play into a recreation of a UA or Neve channel strip.
And here is my smaller board, which lives at my office:

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This is built on a D’Addario xpnd and is powered by a Cioks Sol. Signal path is right to left as the pedals are arranged, and flows into a Focusrite interface.
 
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to share my current pedalboard setup, built for blues, rock, synth layers and classic heavy grooves. I mainly play a Guild Starfire II Bass and a Rickenbacker 4003W – the Rick is modded with a Nordstrand Nordenbocker pickup in the neck position.

Signal Chain:
  1. TC Electronic Polytune –
  2. SHM OTC-201 Compressor – parallel compression, super transparent
  3. Crazy Tube Circuits Locomotive – tube-style overdrive for classic rock tones
  4. FTelettronica Looper/Blender
    → Loop contains:
    • Markbass Octaver Raw
    • Walrus Audio Silt Fuzz
      (used for synth-style textures à la Muse or Royal Blood)
  5. Orange Bass Butler Preamp/DI

Blender Setup:
The blend is set around 50%, which keeps the low end intact while layering in the synth fuzz tone. Octaver + Fuzz in parallel = thick and punchy.


If anyone runs a similar setup or has questions or suggestions, I’d love to hear it! Happy to exchange ideas.
 

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