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Show me your wood!
- Thread starter Vlad5
- Start date
Yamaha BBEAST (1st version Nathan East signature model)
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- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,615
- 222,140
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Roasted ash J
(solid) Koa Factorbird fretless
(solid) Koa Factorbird fretless
Chestnut (posted this one earlier) and spalted mango.
These two look even better in person IMO.....
These two look even better in person IMO.....
Both of those are beautiful! Not over the top figuring, but subtle and interesting.
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Roasted ash J
(solid) Koa Factorbird fretless
Where do I begin?!
Roasted Ash: Gorgeous! drool (By the way, how is that Schaller Adjustable Roller bridges working out? They are tempting!)
Factorbird: That is simultaneously one of the weirdest and coolest things I've seen on TB for a while. Not having seen a Factor in many, many years (back when I was learning drums and long before I ever considered taking up bass), I'd forgotten just how elaborate the bridge/tuning system was.
Somehow, I can imagine filling all that negative space on the headstock by painting a stylized thunderbird head in-profile along the lines of it's cut. You could go (Native) American-style…
…perhaps even British-style!
(Thunderbirds are GO!! 
)
I've never seen the bridge of a Chapman Stick up close before. I'm impressed that such a little screw can hold a large string in place. But please tell me, how do you adjust the intonation?
Sharing... Love all this wood. Dig these Clement basses of mine.
Aha - you don't. If you notice, the strings are arranged in a modified V, so intonation is pre-set. OK, this is not strictly true. A few years ago I used a 'baritone' set of strings on the melody/high side - the entire melody set is a 4th lower. The strings came with a replacement set of screws that had the top of the slot machined away to compensate. Stick Enterprises also provides compensated screws for the some other string/tuning options, otherwise that is it.
The newer Sticks have fully adjustable metal bridge sections that allow more precise adjustment, but I must say that it is very well intonated as it stands.
In terms of holding the strings, the slots on the three biggest (C, G and D low to high) bass strings actually have a 'V' machined into the end above the screwdriver slot so the strings don't pop out - you can just see this on the D string (3rd highest bass string).
Thanks for the quick reply and info, Steve!
After I posted, I zoomed-in and noticed the little divot. Great resolution, even at that large picture size. What camera are you using? (sorry for the aside, everyone…I'm a minor photography-nerd
)
Thanks for the quick reply and info, Steve!
After I posted, I zoomed-in and noticed the little divot. Great resolution, even at that large picture size. What camera are you using? (sorry for the aside, everyone…I'm a minor photography-nerd
It is only a low-end Nikon Bridge camera (L310) using the macro mode and taken from about 18" away to avoid too much perspective distortion.
I'd hardly call that "low end"…at least, not for us mere mortals. For a pro with gear that prices into four or five digits, maybe, but that ain't me. Looking at the specs, it's a lot like my FujiFilm Finepix S4300, with which I've taken some of my best-ever pics. The only big difference is mine has an optical viewfinder, not just an LCD screen. (If you're going to be doing a lot of outdoor photography, I highly recommend it. Sunlight glaring off an LCD is a royale-with-cheese pain!
)
I'd hardly call that "low end"…at least, not for us mere mortals. For a pro with gear that prices into four or five digits, maybe, but that ain't me. Looking at the specs, it's a lot like my FujiFilm Finepix S4300, with which I've taken some of my best-ever pics. The only big difference is mine has an optical viewfinder, not just an LCD screen. (If you're going to be doing a lot of outdoor photography, I highly recommend it. Sunlight glaring off an LCD is a royale-with-cheese pain!
I think I got mine in a new-year sale - about £130, so OK not cheap but certainly not top-end, although like you I have had some pretty good results with it. You're right - LCD-only outdoors is a right PITA, and I suspect is one of the reasons that the battery life is so poor! The other annoyance is the delay (presumably auto-focus kicking in) between pressing the button and the camera actually taking the shot - taking a moving target is a real crap-shoot, although occasionally is comes up trumps...
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,615
- 222,140
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Where do I begin?!
Roasted Ash: Gorgeous! drool (By the way, how is that Schaller Adjustable Roller bridges working out? They are tempting!)
Factorbird: That is simultaneously one of the weirdest and coolest things I've seen on TB for a while. Not having seen a Factor in many, many years (back when I was learning drums and long before I ever considered taking up bass), I'd forgotten just how elaborate the bridge/tuning system was.
Somehow, I can imagine filling all that negative space on the headstock by painting a stylized thunderbird head in-profile along the lines of it's cut. You could go (Native) American-style…
Invalid Link Removed
…perhaps even British-style!
I created the Factorbird in the late 90's - it was my first 'project' bass. It's had a few different pu/pre-amps over time but for a while now it has the G&L L-2000 set-up. I've recently strung it BEAD and w/the capo off it drops to (open) A.
The Schaller 3-D bridge was first offered in the 80's and being a great design it remains one of the best bridges out there. I use it on 3 of my basses.
