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Show us your 3 pickup basses!

.....The electronics and pickups... Aguliar OBP-3 (push/pull for active/passive). I'm keeping the Bart soapbar, and was originally going to put in Barts from another J/J Rapture, but there seems to be a difference in output between the J's and the SB, so it looks like I'll be purchasing some Delano JMVC's :bassist:

I'm setting up the controls so that I can use a DTDP switch to choose between the J pickups alone (they'll be on a blend pot for neck and bridge blending), J's and Soapbar, or just the Soapbar.......

Look into using a PUSH/PUSH switchpot. They're easier to use in the heat of combat. You don't have to pull on the knob to activate the switch, just push down on it and it will pop-up by itself. Then push down on it again and it locks in the down position until you push down on it again, when it will pop-up again all by itself.

I've been using them on several guitars/basses for about a decade now. They work great, and you never end up accidently pulling the knob clean off of the shaft from pulling too hard because you're never actually pulling up on the knob, you're always pushing down on it.

I'd suggest using knobs that have set-screws in either case. And use smooth shaft switchpots as well, instead of split shaft.

Just an opinion. There are many other opinions to choose from.
 
there is a p-retro preamp, a five-way pickup selector and a series/parallel switch for the mudbucker. i've considered going to a three-way pickup selector as i wasn't soloing the J or the mudbucker often, but as of late i am finding value in the tones. i love this bass. my only issue is that it weighs a ton. next one will have a chambered body for sure.
OTb4h.jpg
 
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there is a p-retro preamp, a five-way pickup selector and a series/parallel switch for the mudbucker. i've considered going to a three-way pickup selector as i wasn't soloing the J or the mudbucker often, but as of late i am finding value in the tones. i love this bass. my only issue is that it weighs a ton. next one will have a chambered body for sure.
OTb4h.jpg

Very nice! Is that a tremelo bridge?? Regarding the 5 way, IMO, one of the best tones on a bass like yours is bridge+neck. Might be worth adding a strat type "Gilmour Switch" to give you that option.
 
Look into using a PUSH/PUSH switchpot. They're easier to use in the heat of combat. You don't have to pull on the knob to activate the switch, just push down on it and it will pop-up by itself. Then push down on it again and it locks in the down position until you push down on it again, when it will pop-up again all by itself.

I've been using them on several guitars/basses for about a decade now. They work great, and you never end up accidently pulling the knob clean off of the shaft from pulling too hard because you're never actually pulling up on the knob, you're always pushing down on it.

I'd suggest using knobs that have set-screws in either case. And use smooth shaft switchpots as well, instead of split shaft.

Just an opinion. There are many other opinions to choose from.

I have destroyed a few nice quality push pull pots by removing the knob impatiently (pulling out the shaft). The real heartbreaker is redoing all that soldering. My old caffeinated hands struggle with those tight spaces. :-)
 
there is a p-retro preamp, a five-way pickup selector and a series/parallel switch for the mudbucker. i've considered going to a three-way pickup selector as i wasn't soloing the J or the mudbucker often, but as of late i am finding value in the tones. i love this bass. my only issue is that it weighs a ton. next one will have a chambered body for sure.
OTb4h.jpg

Is that 3-way switch set up like a strat? B - B+M - M -M+N - N ? Do you ever find yourself wishing you had access to B+N or all three pickups at the same time?

Also, how often do you use the tremelo?

Very nice looking bass, btw.
 
Look into using a PUSH/PUSH switchpot. They're easier to use in the heat of combat. You don't have to pull on the knob to activate the switch, just push down on it and it will pop-up by itself. Then push down on it again and it locks in the down position until you push down on it again, when it will pop-up again all by itself.

I've been using them on several guitars/basses for about a decade now. They work great, and you never end up accidently pulling the knob clean off of the shaft from pulling too hard because you're never actually pulling up on the knob, you're always pushing down on it.
I have destroyed a few nice quality push pull pots by removing the knob impatiently (pulling out the shaft). The real heartbreaker is redoing all that soldering. My old caffeinated hands struggle with those tight spaces. :-)

You guys raise an interesting point about "heat of battle" and "impatient." How durable are the push-push switches? The same way I can imagine you guys pulling the knobs off the switches onstage in the heat of the moment, I can see myself slapping down a push-push pot on stage with all the grace and finesse of Attila the Hun.
 
This is one very cool bass!

I know you accidently misspelled "additional" but I like the double meaning of the all new word you came up with ....

.... loads of addictional settings and effects ....

Very very well said! I think I'm adopting that one.

:hyper:

Yup, two meanings as well ! I'm sorry, sometimes my english or american skills may be poor, but since I'll be trying to pass B2 exam this summer, I'd get into next level. Anyway I always wanted to take up learning russian language, and because I still have some free terms of language studies on my university, maybe I'll start next year ...

This one is very cool - I can see why its addictional. :-)

What do the switches do?

Yup, I think this is great bass. Absolutely no influences from the west. The neck has got even 23 frets to make it even more hipster !

The switches: first three on/off each pickup. Other three - first one is the fuzz, the second one phaser, the third one on/off active electronics. The additional knob is to set the effect level, standart two knobs vol/tone control.
The effect were a cool thing, but it surely sounded better on a guitar version of this beauty.

Wow! That bass has serious potential! Made in the USSR, eh? I am envious.

There are several style things on it that point to a 60's-70's-ish construction, the turquoise in the pickups, the tuners, switches, knobs, and body shape. Some people like that look, or would at least be motivated to maintain things like that in their original condition.

Personally, I would update it, but I have never been sentimental toward original components, paint, etc., on American stuff or anything else. I think this bass would look stunning with metal dome knobs (perhaps with turquoise tops to match the pickups), new switches, and a new pickguard to accommodate them, and Schaller or Gotoh tuners

It is certainly eye-catching!

Thats exactly the thing I like - those guitars are just different. But since I got my hands on a few guitars from other countries I can also see that some of the stereotypes are alive if you compare it to the guitar finishing. People from Czech Republic are often described as emotional and easy to cry, and so most Jolanas had soft settings, and thin necks. While Russian guitars are often heavy, and have fat necks, but you will have to try very hard to demolish it lol.

To me its way better to mod the old bass than put it on the wall, smash it on the stage or just leave for decay. So if you'd ever got yer hands on one of these, and wont be satisfied with original setup - feel free to mod !
 
You guys raise an interesting point about "heat of battle" and "impatient." How durable are the push-push switches? The same way I can imagine you guys pulling the knobs off the switches onstage in the heat of the moment, I can see myself slapping down a push-push pot on stage with all the grace and finesse of Attila the Hun.
Well, I've smacked the crap out of the ones on my Tele more than a few times, they seem to be just fine (10+ year old guitar). The other nice thing is that if you're using a pick it's super easy to use the push-push switch. You can just push it down with your pinky and yer golden!

A side note, on my Tele I don't even have a ~knob~ on the blade switch, I actually just use the pick the move the switch, I sortof ~fan~ the switch's blade almost as if it were a string. Takes some getting used to but I'm fairly good with that trick by now, I can hit the middle position pretty reliably if needed. I taught myself to use the pick to work the selector switch because the little knobby kept flying off mid-song, leaving this unfriendly sharp little bare ~blade~ to deal with when switching pickups. So I though "ta heck with it!". I rounded off the corners of the blade switch lever a little bit with a file, and just learned to use the pick to operate the switch. I can operate that switch and even operate one of the coil taps (push-push switches on both knobs) at the same time by fanning the pickup switch with the pick while pushing down on one of the push-push switches with my pinky. I'll never go back to push-pulls.

But that's me. Everyone has their own ideas about what ~good~ is.
 
Very nice! Is that a tremelo bridge?? Regarding the 5 way, IMO, one of the best tones on a bass like yours is bridge+neck. Might be worth adding a strat type "Gilmour Switch" to give you that option.

Thank you. That sure is a tremolo, Kahler to be specific. I use neck bridge a lot for ska, jazz, Latin, and anything else that requires upright-ish tone. The gilmour switch is intriguing. Thanks for mentioning it.
 
Is that 3-way switch set up like a strat? B - B+M - M -M+N - N ? Do you ever find yourself wishing you had access to B+N or all three pickups at the same time?

Also, how often do you use the tremelo?

Very nice looking bass, btw.

Its a five way set up like a strat, B-B+M-M-M+N-N. I have wanted to get both of those combinations. An earlier comment mentioned the gilmour switch and i like that option.

Tremolo use depends on the gig. Is great for solos of which I do my fair share. I also use it for a lot of endings and fills. Great with harmonics. I am doing a solo bass project and its really used a lot in that.

Thanks. It's been in my dreams for years.
 
Look into using a PUSH/PUSH switchpot. They're easier to use in the heat of combat. You don't have to pull on the knob to activate the switch, just push down on it and it will pop-up by itself. Then push down on it again and it locks in the down position until you push down on it again, when it will pop-up again all by itself.

I've been using them on several guitars/basses for about a decade now. They work great, and you never end up accidently pulling the knob clean off of the shaft from pulling too hard because you're never actually pulling up on the knob, you're always pushing down on it.

I'd suggest using knobs that have set-screws in either case. And use smooth shaft switchpots as well, instead of split shaft.

Just an opinion. There are many other opinions to choose from.

I hear your arguments and I agree with a lot of it (I've been known to pull a knob clean off trying to flip the "pull" switch) Set screw knobs are always a good idea. Sometimes you can't get smooth shafts, but I've used those adapter bushings and they work pretty well.

My only comment on push/push and why I prefer push/pull, is that the push/push gives you no mechanical feedback as to which setting you are using. Optimum would probably be a push/push with an additional set of contacts (usually DPDT is full) for a "feedback" Led to indicate which position it's in.
 
Any thoughts from the posters in this thread about use of active electronics in a 3+ pickup bass?

My point is this - in a traditional Stingray with one pickup near the bridge (or a Gary Willis Bass or an Alain Caron Bass - similar idea) you get the bridge growl but sometimes need bass boost to get the deep tone you can get from a pickup closer to the neck.

Seems like with a three pickup bass you can almost use the bridge pickup like treble boost and the far neck pickup like bass boost and an active preamp is almost redundant.

Using one pickup with a pre eliminates phase cancellation, but what other pros and cons are there (in terms of tone).
 
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Any thoughts from the posters in this thread about use of active electronics in a 3+ pickup bass?

My point is this - in a traditional Stingray with one pickup near the bridge (or a Gary Willis Bass or an Alain Caron Bass - similar idea) you get the bridge growl but sometimes need bass boost to get the deep tone you can get from a pickup closer to the neck.

Seems like with a three pickup bass you can almost use the bridge pickup like treble boost and the far neck pickup like bass boost and an active preamp is almost redundant.

Using one pickup with a pre eliminates phase cancellation, but what other pros and cons are there (in terms of tone).

my 3 pickup bass had an MM between two J pickups so they were quite close together and so the main difference was the pickup type not the position and so in this case a preamp helped me emphasize the differences, more bass from the Js and more growl from the MM etc however on a bass with 3 of the same pickups spaced out from neck to bridge and one in te middle, I'd probably use pickups solo/blend them to get the right balance of highs and lows/punch etc form the pickups respective positions. The only thing I really use my preamps for is treble boost for an aggressive tone, bass usually stays where it is
 
I hear your arguments and I agree with a lot of it (I've been known to pull a knob clean off trying to flip the "pull" switch) Set screw knobs are always a good idea. Sometimes you can't get smooth shafts, but I've used those adapter bushings and they work pretty well.

My only comment on push/push and why I prefer push/pull, is that the push/push gives you no mechanical feedback as to which setting you are using. Optimum would probably be a push/push with an additional set of contacts (usually DPDT is full) for a "feedback" Led to indicate which position it's in.
That's totally not correct. Push-push switchpots stick up about at least 1/4 inch higher when in the "up" mode and are 1/4 lower in the "down" mode. I have no trouble at all knowing what the status is. You're mistaking push-in PUSHBUTTONS for push-push SWITCHPOTS.


Here's my Shredbilly Tele. Both push-push switchpots are in the down positions (coil taps are not engaged).
IMGP8255.jpg


Push down on the knob(s) a little and BOINK they pop right up all by themselves (engaging the coil taps in this case). Push them back down and they lock in the down position until you push down on them again, then BOINK ... they pop right back up all by themselves.

IMGP8256.jpg


See? All the status info you could ever need. They can even be ~felt~ in no-light situations. Best feedback device ever. You don't need to see them to know what status they're in ..... EXACTLY like push-pulls except just way better!

These particular push-push switchpots have splined split shafts, so I used knobs with two set screws to make sure they stay put. I prefer very small knobs so that I can make adjustments quickly with the inside of my finger. I've become so familiar with this control system by now that I may attempt to adopt it on my X-Bass. This is the control plate with the blade switch that I use the pick to operate the pickup selector with.

Pics taken prior to the blade switch modifications to permit use without the little knob that kept getting flung across the stage everytime I swept it to change pickups. I got tired of chasing the little knob and also cutting my hand when switching pickups without the knob after it flicked off and flew somewhere. So I rounded the corners of the switch handle and just use the pick or my finger on the un-knobbed switch handle now. Sometimes ya just gotta adapt!

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And here's yet another supplier, this is where I got mine ....


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250k with DPDT on/on
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500k with DPDT on/on
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My guess is that they're available for less moolah from vendors other than what I've linked here. But it was easy to add them to a list of stuffs I was already getting from them (Warmoth) at the time.

PushPushswitchpot-WarmothPP500_zps72761a83.jpg