Show Us Your Rob Allen Basses Part IV

[Philonius]

Has anyone changed their Mouse fretless strings yet. I am wanted to change them, but based on my measurements the original strings are 33.75 from ball to silk.

But that is longer than the labella shorts and shorter than the Labella medium scale.

Help - anyone changed theirs yet.

thanks

Mine is not fretless, and a bit older, but assuming nothing has changed, the medium scale are the correct choice. I'm sure others can confirm.

 

[LowWay]

That's beautiful.

(However, the fact it's going to be for sale makes me more intrigued about Bordwell basses, they must be real good for this one to go on the block!)

I love bordwells. My daily driver for over a decade was a 34" 6.5 pound fretted 4 string from bordwell. An illness in 2019 had me switching to 30" full time. I've built 3 and have 2 more in the queue with him. He makes nice basses, and I can get exactly what I want.

The mouses (mice? Meeses?) are indeed awesome, but the necks don't fit in my now arthritic hands as well as a bordwell with a neck carve to accommodate my needs. I hate selling this bass.

 

[LowWay]

Here's the 3 new bordwells next to the 2 rob Allens. (Although LennyJ now has the fretless mouse):

 

[FenderP]

Mine is not fretless, and a bit older, but assuming nothing has changed, the medium scale are the correct choice. I'm sure others can confirm.

Remember that because the body is string through due to the bridge, you need longer strings regardless of what RA model it is.

 

[FenderP]

Did a change of string gauge require those bridge shims? I was thinking of trying a different set of strings on my Deep 4, but am afraid I will get into similar action issues.

I've never needed bridge shims or anything with different strings. To be fair, Rob built mine when he was donig custom work and it's a bigger bridge than normal and was set up for RS88, not LaBella strings. Since then I've tried Galli and Pyramid black tapes. Currently it has real upright strings on it (good with the piezo, not with the mag pickup). I may go back to the RS88s and call it a day.

 

[FenderP]

I still have my Deep 4 - crazy good bass. Did a video shoot with it earlier this year but have migrated to the Mouse for my regular gigs.

I love my D4 as well. Play it, but people seem to love my Gillett more. Go figure.

 

[FenderP]

If you want to hear my D4 (piezo, not mag) with the Pyramid black nylon tapewound strings, here are two clips from my album last year:
Beautiful Dancer - one of my originals


Footprints (Bari Version)

 

[nonohmic]

Here's the 3 new bordwells next to the 2 rob Allens. (Although LennyJ now has the fretless mouse):

View attachment 5074807

That's a sweet rack of gear!

 

[nostatic]

Mine is not fretless, and a bit older, but assuming nothing has changed, the medium scale are the correct choice. I'm sure others can confirm.

I can confirm that the shorts do *not* work - the silk hits the nut. The mediums (760N-M) are the correct ones.

 

[nostatic]

Has anyone changed their Mouse fretless strings yet. I am wanted to change them, but based on my measurements the original strings are 33.75 from ball to silk.

But that is longer than the labella shorts and shorter than the Labella medium scale.

Help - anyone changed theirs yet.

thanks

760N-M are the ones.

Possibly important note - when you change strings, do it one at a time so you keep tension on the saddle. The piezo element can be a bit fiddly, and if you remove all the tension by taking all the strings off at once, things could shift and change string balance/etc. Luckily you kinda don't need to change strings...like ever...though new ones do have a bit more edge to them. Fwiw on my Deep 4 I actually use the lighter gauge La Bella nylons (750N rather than 760N). Ymmv.

 

[FenderP]

760N-M are the ones.

Possibly important note - when you change strings, do it one at a time so you keep tension on the saddle. The piezo element can be a bit fiddly, and if you remove all the tension by taking all the strings off at once, things could shift and change string balance/etc. Luckily you kinda don't need to change strings...like ever...though new ones do have a bit more edge to them. Fwiw on my Deep 4 I actually use the lighter gauge La Bella nylons (750N rather than 760N). Ymmv.

Disagree on the "like ever" but then again I snap strings

 

[LennyJ]

760N-M are the ones.

Possibly important note - when you change strings, do it one at a time so you keep tension on the saddle. The piezo element can be a bit fiddly, and if you remove all the tension by taking all the strings off at once, things could shift and change string balance/etc. Luckily you kinda don't need to change strings...like ever...though new ones do have a bit more edge to them. Fwiw on my Deep 4 I actually use the lighter gauge La Bella nylons (750N rather than 760N). Ymmv.

That is why I am getting new strings - the pickup has died and I will have the strings replaced when the pickup is changed out. thanks

 

[RodRy]

View attachment 5074457

Beautiful fretted koa mouse. Will be heading to classifieds this week…

Lovely indeed. Some lucky bassist will be getting a nice koa instrument!

 

[foothilla]

760N-M are the ones.

Possibly important note - when you change strings, do it one at a time so you keep tension on the saddle. The piezo element can be a bit fiddly, and if you remove all the tension by taking all the strings off at once, things could shift and change string balance/etc. Luckily you kinda don't need to change strings...like ever...though new ones do have a bit more edge to them. Fwiw on my Deep 4 I actually use the lighter gauge La Bella nylons (750N rather than 760N). Ymmv.

I have never changed the strings on my D4. Is the piezo really so sloppy that it shifts around in the saddle groove? I would like to remove all 4 strings so that I can condition my fingerboard. But I don't want a fight to get it to sound exactly like it sounds now. I've had acoustics that were finicky amplified, because there was so much slop in the bridge slot. Considering their cost, I was hoping my Rob Allen would be above that.

 

[nostatic]

I have never changed the strings on my D4. Is the piezo really so sloppy that it shifts around in the saddle groove? I would like to remove all 4 strings so that I can condition my fingerboard. But I don't want a fight to get it to sound exactly like it sounds now. I've had acoustics that were finicky amplified, because there was so much slop in the bridge slot. Considering their cost, I was hoping my Rob Allen would be above that.

It isn't sloppy build, but rather the piezo elements can be fragile and kinda cantankerous. I have pulled all strings on my Deep 4 and previous RAs to oil the fingerboard and have not had an issue but I've certainly had acoustic guitar saddle flop out (on Martins). So this is just a precaution I typically follow - also do it with archtops because I don't want to have to sort out the bridge placement.

 

[FenderP]

It isn't sloppy build, but rather the piezo elements can be fragile and kinda cantankerous. I have pulled all strings on my Deep 4 and previous RAs to oil the fingerboard and have not had an issue but I've certainly had acoustic guitar saddle flop out (on Martins). So this is just a precaution I typically follow - also do it with archtops because I don't want to have to sort out the bridge placement.

I'll +1 this. The piezo in my Gillett had to be adjusted once because it accidentally took a spill and knocked it out of whack; it's just inherent in the technology if you ask me.

That said, my current D4 is my second (first is long gone at this point) and the only problem I had with a piezo in either D4 was a minor wiring issue in the current one that had to do with the volume pot.

 

[foothilla]

My amazing Deep 5 in action

I hope you like it

This is fantastic. The entire band is killer.

Can I ask how your recorded and EQ'ed your Deep 5?

 

[Christian Houmann]

This is fantastic. The entire band is killer.

Can I ask how your recorded and EQ'ed your Deep 5?

Thank you so much!

I believe that the Deep is set with a bass boost and the treble cut a bit. Going through a Noble preamp

 

[Groove Doctor]

I have never changed the strings on my D4. Is the piezo really so sloppy that it shifts around in the saddle groove? I would like to remove all 4 strings so that I can condition my fingerboard. But I don't want a fight to get it to sound exactly like it sounds now. I've had acoustics that were finicky amplified, because there was so much slop in the bridge slot. Considering their cost, I was hoping my Rob Allen would be above that.

Piezos are delicate and finicky by design. Nothing to do with Rob's fine work.

To keep bridge saddle in place when removing the strings, tape it in place with several 8-10" strips of NON-MARKING tape parallel with strings BEFORE you remove the strings. Add some extra tape after removing strings. Hey presto - fretboard/neck is free to work on without disturbing anything.

Be careful to use the right tape otherwise you'll remove pieces of the delicate finish where to tape attaches to the face of the body.

Another option is a foam cushion over the bridge and elastic strips (eg Theraband) or string wrapped around the body. Make sure there's some cardboard to stop them making impressions on the edges the string rolls across.

That said - if you're not familiar with how they work or what to, just take it to someone who does know and is experienced.

PS. The chances of screwing it up are huge. Make your mistakes on cheap instruments before attacking high end basses like RA.

 

[foothilla]

Piezos are delicate and finicky by design. Nothing to do with Rob's fine work.

To keep bridge saddle in place when removing the strings, tape it in place with several 8-10" strips of NON-MARKING tape parallel with strings BEFORE you remove the strings. Add some extra tape after removing strings. Hey presto - fretboard/neck is free to work on without disturbing anything.

Be careful to use the right tape otherwise you'll remove pieces of the delicate finish where to tape attaches to the face of the body.

Another option is a foam cushion over the bridge and elastic strips (eg Theraband) or string wrapped around the body. Make sure there's some cardboard to stop them making impressions on the edges the string rolls across.

That said - if you're not familiar with how they work or what to, just take it to someone who does know and is experienced.

PS. The chances of screwing it up are huge. Make your mistakes on cheap instruments before attacking high end basses like RA.

Multiple people in this thread posted about having problems with their RA piezo, and how delicate it is. This is all a bit of a surprise to me. I did guitar setups/repairs for years and installed countless Fishman piezo systems, mostly in acoustic guitars (including my own). I didn't find them difficult or problematic at all. You make sure you don't bend the element, you make sure it's properly centered under the string-path, and you make sure the bottom of the saddle and bridge-slot are both perfectly flat. There isn't much to it beyond that. The only times I have ever had problems was with poorly fit saddles and piezo elements that could easily shift around.

So, I don't know, I find it odd that so many people had problems with their RA piezo. I hope my Deep 4 is road worthy. I have Martins that have had Fishman piezos in them since the early 1990's, I've probably done 50+ string changes on them, and never had an issue.