singlecut chambered.

[PasdaBeer]

You should use a glue that fills up the gap. Super glue needs a tight fit, so I wouldn't go there...

I don't know Gorilla glue, but I guess any epoxy type of glue wood fill the gap as if it has a plastic insert and would hold your frets pretty sturdy. But don't ever think about a re-fretting job .

Im not a fan of that stuff...

For wood repairs its great (not instrument). Otherwise i stay away from it

 

[LedBelli Bass]

I haven't thrown in my two bits on Jordan's build in quite a while.

IMHO, given Jordan's age, relative woodworking inexperience, and the limitations he's working with when it comes to tools and materials, I think this bass is a most outstanding effort!

Of course there are things he would do over/differently. But I think this bass is beautiful and shows a lot of intuitive design sense that many do not have. His bass exhibits a motif that is decidedly "his" and is tasteful.

When I was Jordan's age, there is no way that I could have ever produced this work. Stick to it, Jordan, I believe you can make something of this if you work hard and try easy!

("try easy" -- V. Wooten)!

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

..........and it should be about ready for body wing glue-up. I have a plan on how i will do that, but more on that later.

I just posted on my build how I got the wings to line up. And I did some pics too. Check it out. Oh, and I agree with the above-Outstanding effort!!!!

 

[adam.beauchene]

Nice work so far! I wish I started building at your age... of course, there was no internet yet when I was your age...

 

[jordan_frerichs]

I just posted on my build how I got the wings to line up. And I did some pics too. Check it out. Oh, and I agree with the above-Outstanding effort!!!!

I think i saw it. pegs right? Seems like it would be a pain to get right (and it seems like i would need a drill press but i don't have one.), but i will check into it. I am just worried because i radioused and contoured the sides completely which would make for difficult clamping. My current plan of action, is to take pine blocks, cut out the shape of the sides, line the shape cutouts with foam, and then screw in pieces that will extend out over the top and back of the wings to keep the pine cauls from sliding off. Also, add bits of metal inside the glue joint for less slipping.

 

[jordan_frerichs]

I haven't thrown in my two bits on Jordan's build in quite a while.

IMHO, given Jordan's age, relative woodworking inexperience, and the limitations he's working with when it comes to tools and materials, I think this bass is a most outstanding effort!

Of course there are things he would do over/differently. But I think this bass is beautiful and shows a lot of intuitive design sense that many do not have. His bass exhibits a motif that is decidedly "his" and is tasteful.

When I was Jordan's age, there is no way that I could have ever produced this work. Stick to it, Jordan, I believe you can make something of this if you work hard and try easy!

("try easy" -- V. Wooten)!

Thanx. As far as tools go, I am just working with razor blades, a router and straightedge, a dremel (don't have any of the extra fixtures yet), a few chisels, a hand drill, a japanese pull saw (used most. especially for starting work at the hand carved parts), a $40 dollar miter-saw (I hate it. not clean cutting. just use it for quick unimportant cuts), and the school is supplying me with clamps for the summer.
For this build, I have decided to go at it with no thought in my head, just the sound of the radio, and let the hands work, and leave everything to impulse and imediate action on whatever pops into my head as I work. So far the things I would change, mostly have to do with construction steps, so everything would go more cleanly, with less redoing and error correction.

Nice work so far! I wish I started building at your age... of course, there was no internet yet when I was your age...

Dude your stuff is pure awsome. It makes me want to forget about this build and design and build one with all the ideas that were inspired by your bass.

 

[jordan_frerichs]

I thicknessed the headstock with a hammer and chisel. First i marked the 5/8" line, used a flush cut saw to make depth cuts to the 5/8" mark, then hammered and chiseled, occasionally checking with a straightedge for high spots remarking those areas and chiseling them down more.
I quite enjoyed how low-tech it was, especially sense the last time i thicknessed a headstock it was a pain. The back of the head has some gouges in it though. I think i will chamber the head through the back, and glue on a thin veneer to hide all the bad spots, and counter-balance the neck-dive it might have. (got the chambered-head idea from a friend).

Right now the neck and fingerboard are off being worked on by a friend. The headstock is being drilled for tuners, and the fingerboard is having the slots deepened.
I also got a great idea for the transition block on the back of the body. I have had a piece of spalted ash lying around for a while. The problem is that the spalting is all at one side, so it would not be good as a bookmatched top. However the spalting looks pretty cool, so i think i will use it as the last layer of the back of neck/mid-body, and also the back of the headstock, and the pickup covers if it doesn't look out of place.

 

[roberthabraken]

Very nice to hear you're moving on quite well. Do you have some pics too??

 

[jordan_frerichs]

I will have some when i get the neck and fb back, but that may take a while, because the guy who is taking care of it is a pretty busy dude.

 

[PasdaBeer]

Just kinda curious why you used a hammer and chisel, Do you have a full size router?

 

[jordan_frerichs]

Just kinda curious why you used a hammer and chisel, Do you have a full size router?

I didn't see how i could rig something up because it was already shaped. also, i felt like doing it by hand

 

[PasdaBeer]

fair nuff'

 

[jordan_frerichs]

I think that for the transition block (which in this case is the entire mid-back of the instrument) I will get a lot of super thin veneers off of ebay and just stack them, and use the spalted ash for the final layer. might look cool....

 

[Jensby design]

wow jordan you made an 8 page thread.
Hope to see some progress soon.
I also hope to see a case of pepsi and the first season of heroes show up at my house soon.

 

[jordan_frerichs]

wow jordan you made an 8 page thread.
Hope to see some progress soon.
I also hope to see a case of pepsi and the first season of heroes show up at my house soon.

speaking of progress, any work on the fb/neck/tranny block piece? I will (like) talk to my brother about the heroes discs (LIKE) when i see him next (he's (LIKE LIKE LIKEDY LIKE) gone for a Sick Puppies concert in Omaha 2day) I can't wait for next season of that to air. Did you see the season final. The end was ***.

PS here is something AWESOME

 

[jordan_frerichs]

I was thinking about the best way to add weight to the body core, behind the bridge, so it has better balance. I have decided To let the tranny block woods take care of that. Right now, I am thinking about putting a lot of flat-sawn wenge in it (not only is it heavy, but it will complement all the other woods very well.) What are some other heavy woods that are not too expensive in small amounts to think over?

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

Mahogany, purpleheart.....

 

[Jensby design]

What are some other heavy woods that are not too expensive in small amounts to think over?

Oak

 

[jordan_frerichs]

Oak

definately not. Found some great looking bocote. is that heavier than most?

 

[Musiclogic]

What are some other heavy woods that are not too expensive in small amounts to think over?

Ash, Goncalo Alves, Bubinga, Macacauba, Purple Heart, Shedua, Cocobolo and many more.

Most of these you can find "cut offs" of on Ebay for quite inexpensive prices. Chitswoods on Ebay regularly has small lots of cut offs for sale for a few bucks each lot, if you just need some scrap with weight, look there, you might be shocked what is sold for cheap.