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singlecut chambered.

#181
few other this and that pics....
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birxuu.jpg


I am aware that the guitar tuners are not able to turn at the moment. I will make a cutout to fix this
2po13cm.jpg
 
#182
Finally some pictures again :D.. but seriously, I like that bass Jordan!! Only thing is that the headstock doesn't match the body / neck IMO.. but when you fix the guitar tuners it may get more in tune ;).

The design is very cool, even more cause you shaped it along the way, those neck lams, the woods you've used.. it's really cool!!

Carry on and finish it at your own pace, it will be a beauty!

Ps.. go for the jazz pups :cool:.
 
#183
My meagre advice:

Jazz pickups with custom wood covers (more tonal variety than the MM).

Custom wooden knobs (you can make these, they'll be time consuming, but something tells me you'll easily be up to the task :D ).

Custom floating bridge with nifty anchor idea: you've got all that room behind the bridge - make use of it with something really artsy and cool.

You've really done a fantastic job, if you were my boy, I'd be grinning from ear to ear with pride... :crying:
 
#184
Beej said:
My meagre advice:

Jazz pickups with custom wood covers (more tonal variety than the MM).

Custom wooden knobs (you can make these, they'll be time consuming, but something tells me you'll easily be up to the task :D ).

Custom floating bridge with nifty anchor idea: you've got all that room behind the bridge - make use of it with something really artsy and cool.

You've really done a fantastic job, if you were my boy, I'd be grinning from ear to ear with pride... :crying:
Click to expand...

i might do wo9od covers later. trying to think of what though.... bloodwood knobs wold be sweet. know were i can buy some?
its an 8 octive pairs bass. idk were i could find a floater for that. my ideal bridge would be a piezo, burt i don't have that kind of cash, and have yet to see an 8 string version. i may do some engraving in that area though.
 
#185
Hmm, good point about the floating bridge...maybe there's some way to use the saddles with a custom bridge mount... I don't know...

As far as bloodwood knobs, use a square length of wood, hand carve it into a dowel and cut off knob-length pieces. Hand drill a recess and hole, sand and polish, and you're done. Time consuming, but you've got time and skill...
 
#186
Beej said:
Hmm, good point about the floating bridge...maybe there's some way to use the saddles with a custom bridge mount... I don't know...

As far as bloodwood knobs, use a square length of wood, hand carve it into a dowel and cut off knob-length pieces. Hand drill a recess and hole, sand and polish, and you're done. Time consuming, but you've got time and skill...
Click to expand...

I think i would make/find a circle shaped platform, drill a hole at its center, and glue in a dowel very slightly smaller than the size of the hole in the knob. i would then take the square blank, and drill it, and put it on on the dowel. Fix a router on its side, and put the circular platform up to the router and turn it.
What i don't understand is how i get them to stay on the pots and be turnable. One of the pots is a push/pull pot, and i don't want it to just slip off if i try to switch between series and parallel. i dont want to super glue it. how do i do this?
 
#188
As far as bloodwood knobs, buy a plug cutter of the appropriate size.

Clamp a scrap piece of bloodwood down into your drill press, drill the hole for the pot shaft, then change to the plug cutter bit without moving the wood and drill the plug. Voila, you've got a knob.

Also, use a small set screw that's tapped into the wood to hold it in place. you can tap the hole for the set screw after cutting the knobs, but doing it first is easiest. Prior to cutting the plug, just clamp the wood so that you're drilling into the side of what will be the knob and drill your set-screw hole, then re-clamp the scrap down flat to cut the hole for the shaft and plug as I said at the beginning of the post.
 
#190
I swear I grew up with that exact same kitchen linoleum. It's freakin' me out. :)

Bass looks great! I especially like the little rainbow band-aid on the upper horn. You should do a whole top like that. Keep it up!
 
#191
barnaclebeau said:
I swear I grew up with that exact same kitchen linoleum. It's freakin' me out. :)

Bass looks great! I especially like the little rainbow band-aid on the upper horn. You should do a whole top like that. Keep it up!
Click to expand...

i am thinking of doing a double cut, were i cut off the horns at an angle, and build them up like that. I think i will make a patch to cover the mahogany filler router slip before this bass is done too.
 
#192
vbasscustom said:
wax, put a dab of hot wax in the boottom of the hole and press on, let it harden, and voila! knobs. then all you have to do to take them off is head them up with a heat gun.
Click to expand...
That sounds like a good idea for the regular pots, but do you know if it will work fine for the push/pull pot over time? what kind of wax?


mattharris75 said:
As far as bloodwood knobs, buy a plug cutter of the appropriate size.

Clamp a scrap piece of bloodwood down into your drill press, drill the hole for the pot shaft, then change to the plug cutter bit without moving the wood and drill the plug. Voila, you've got a knob.

Also, use a small set screw that's tapped into the wood to hold it in place. you can tap the hole for the set screw after cutting the knobs, but doing it first is easiest. Prior to cutting the plug, just clamp the wood so that you're drilling into the side of what will be the knob and drill your set-screw hole, then re-clamp the scrap down flat to cut the hole for the shaft and plug as I said at the beginning of the post.
Click to expand...
what speed should i set the press for plug cutter if i am going through a hard wood like bloodwood? I would have to use a friends drill press, and i don't want to screw it up for him. Where would i get the right set screws?
I really like the wooden knobs idea and will do that when i figure out how to keep them fixed to the pot. I will do bloodwood knobs with a flamed maple center visible when viewed from the side.
 
#193
Thats exactly how i do my knobs because i have a lack of a lathe. the only issure is the pilott hole in the center, but i use it to put a bolt through and flip it upside down and spin it on my drill press. then i use files to shape it and ad details. its like a redneck lathe. By the way your build is spectacular, i was waiting for a glued up body shot. ive been keeping watch on this build. My thought was on the headstock to just shave off about a quarter of an inch of material off of each side of the headstock. cause you have alot extra on both sides. that might free up the tuners. how thick is the headstock?
 
#194
thanx. the head is 5/8". the bass tuners were laying on the ground, not screwed in, so it may have looked like the head sides could be brought in more than they can. the wings and fret board have not been glued on yet. thanx for the drill press idea. i just bought a 5/8" plug cutter though.
 
#195
I think i understand how to do knobs know. does anyone know where i can find set screws? I think i will use pauls "redneck lathe" (lol) method. ppk, did you have to cut the head off of the bolt for it to fit the chuck, or is it a regular bolt? i dont think i have the proper tools to get rid of the head, unless my crappy old grinder wheel can do it.
I think i will give them a slightly abstract shape, and try to think up some possible pup covers that would match that. The only problem for wood pup covers is, what wood would i make them out of? bloodwood, flamed maple, walnut, cherry.... they all sound like the wrong choice. maybe mayhogany, like the body core, or wenge, like the future transition block, but nether of those sound like winners either. anyone got any suggestions for the pup covers?
 
#197
Stu L. said:
Wow, was this needed? :eyebrow: Jordan has a customer, and he/she/whoever is willing to support him. More power to you Jordan! We all have to learn somehow, and I wish I could have been paid to learn.

And just because P's & J's are "less challenging", does not make them any less of a bass. Some, including myself, prefer the traditional shapes.

Edit, oops, sorry folks, looks like I may have just replied to a troll :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

All good. Just so long as you're not feeding them.
 
#198
you wont need to cut of any heads. on the bolt at least....

i tried to explain this in paint to the best of my abilities. the only downside is you get a hole in yout knob, but i just fill them with wood putty. its dirty and relitively quick but it gets the job done, for me at least....

talkbasspaint.jpg



and one more thing, it helps if you use the press the bolt into the chuck while you tighten it.


good luck, Paul
 
#199
jordan_frerichs said:
Holy crap. its been about a year since i started this, planning and then building. Its fun to look back on what you thought the final bass would look like, and how that picture in your head is always evolving as you get further tward the end.
Anyways the main work done since last time is tuner holes are drilled, fingerboard is re slotted through the bindings. The knobs are not in there final location, neither are the jazz pups (may not be jazz pups in the end. thinking about doing neodymnium pups. any suggestions on something that will really bring out the 8-string/hollowed body sound?). still quite a ways to go....
Body shots. HEHEHEHEHE........ body shots....
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Click to expand...

My dislike for single cuts has been crushed to a pulp in one fell swoop. Stunning bass
 
#200
quick thought on the wood knobs.
What do you guys think would look best for a 3 knob set:
A) figured qs cherry knobs (these will probably be the easiest to shape, and since i have not shaped a knob before that is a plus)
B) a 3 lam stack of 1/4" bloodwood, 1/4" flamed maple, 1/4" bloodwood
c) 1/2" walnut capped with 1/4" bloodwood
 

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