that's for a customer? He is willing to pay for amateur work? IMO the design is ugly because of the strange proportions, the "F holes" cutout looks cheesy and out of place. I would try to build a standard P or J if I were you since they are not too challenging
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singlecut chambered.
- Thread starter jordan_frerichs
- Start date
Wow, was this needed?
Jordan has a customer, and he/she/whoever is willing to support him. More power to you Jordan! We all have to learn somehow, and I wish I could have been paid to learn.And just because P's & J's are "less challenging", does not make them any less of a bass. Some, including myself, prefer the traditional shapes.
Edit, oops, sorry folks, looks like I may have just replied to a troll
You're signed on for one day, no profile information about your experience or background, and the first and only post you can make anywhere on TalkBass is to come insult someone else's work?
Lame...
Well he has a customer because he can make basses that are marketable hes trying something different there is no more room in this world for another p or j bass.
this arrogant fart doesnt know what hes talkin about your build looks great. need more pics.
, Paul
this is not for the customer. this one is mine. the customers bass is like this but modified. it may look a little out of proportion in the pic because it a neckthrough, and in the pic, just the wings are pushed together. what would be the point of making something i could buy,or already have?
thanx. wonder what he would say about yours. that looks better ever time i see it. it just looks really classy. please put up pics of the hollowing process when you get there. on mine i just cut the 12 degree scarf cut. the head piece will be maple, and i will face it with some of the quilted cherry i am using to face the center section. i also think i will go without an angle (not 100% on that yet) because it always feels wierd when the fb is not raised to me. i think i may brake down and try to upload my pics to photobucket on the other computer today or tomarrow. i will try to glue the head piece today probably. just need to buy an extra bottle of titebond, and find a good method to glue it.
this is not for the customer. this one is mine. the customers bass is like this but modified. it may look a little out of proportion in the pic because it a neckthrough, and in the pic, just the wings are pushed together, and they are rough cut, because i am waiting to smooth the edges till it is all glued up. what would be the point of making something i could buy,or already have? look at it when the center is glued and see what you think
i also would like to see your work, btw.
ah crap! a double post. was trying to add to the first.
thanks, well i have an idea of what i will do for hollowing it but it will be very time consuming and insane cause its really thick also i am working on hollowing out the canter block ill post a pic to show what im doin. i made a mock up of a 13 degree scarf but i quickly decided that it was too much so settled on a 9. what kind of headstock are you lookin to use? a wish style? or is that the other build?
, Paul
canter block? what is that? the wish head is the customer build. i made a good template in drafting class, transfered it to mdf, so now all i have to do it go over it with a router bit that has a follower on top, and then carve out the iner pit by hand. i choose a twelve for the 8 string head because in my melvin hiscock book, he used a 10 on his e string, and wilser said he uses a 13, so i knid of found the midpoint, and used that.
oh! i see. so, you trying to do a full hollowbody, instead of a very chambered? sweet. hey, how did you say you would attatch the neck?
FINALLY! got the scarf done!! i took some off the cutoff, sawed a few pieces that were on the thinner side, and then cliped the nail ends off off some thumb tax, and put those on the top of the head, to counter the angle of the neck. i also put the pins in where i was gluing the head. i did have to give it some light taps with a hammer, for the pins to flush. used 4 clamps: 1 small bar, 2 c, and a plyer thing. this morning i took handsaw, belt sander, and router o it, getting it about level. i will clean it flush through the planer. Using a high tech roll of duct tape and thick pine blocks, i will raise the neck so that the head angle does not complicate things. it sounds like a bad idea, but i have seen it done before. the thing i am happyiest about right now is that i got a (hopefully) good scarf joint on my own. i already like this bass more than my first build.
I very much hate the fact that you posted what you did. I hate it even more seeing that the name you posted under closely resembles mine.
Jordan, don't listen to this nonsense. Keep up the good work, experience is earned and that is just what you are doing. Youre on your way to being a very good builder.
thanx very much. i just noticed the simalar name. lol. i choose to give this guy the benifet of the doubt, as it DOES look out of prportion in the pic, and i have already explained the reason.
p.s.
everyone please put all coments about my customers build in its own thread, instead of along with this one. i know there is currently not a lot of things to catch intrest in that particular thread yet, and i apologise. here is the link to the customer build http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=487346
p.s.
everyone please put all coments about my customers build in its own thread, instead of along with this one. i know there is currently not a lot of things to catch intrest in that particular thread yet, and i apologise. here is the link to the customer build http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=487346
yea im taking out as much wood as i possibly can. my goal is to get it down to 10 or 11 pounds. the body is 2 3/4" thick so i have alot of work to do. i am going to try and use a set neck. but the tapered slot that i need to make in the body is intimidating me.
mine is ending up so that the body is 1 11/16, but the neck had to be planed down to 1 3/16" so i decided to glue a thin piece of cherry on top, and then a few layers of contrasting wood atched bloon back the raise the neck even. i guess it will look a little like a transition block for a glued neck. so far so good for wight. thanx to the hollow core of mahogony, the wings are light as a feather, and the neck, maple with a 3/4" bloodwood core, doesn't fell that heavy, and it has not been carved yet, so i am anxious to see the final weight.
theree is a good tutorial for that somewhere. i will track it down. basically, you clamp the tapered neck where it will be, centered, on the body, then you take 2 piece of wood, same thickness, and clamp them tightly to the sides, and take off the neck, and mark where the neck stops. route that with a follower straight bit and the end doesn't need to be exact, because a pickup is usually placed there after gluing (the neck end has extend further than the fingerboard for this) i would saw off the top of the neck, after the fingerboard, and reglue some wqood to it so it matches the top. I will pm the tutorial to you.
the figerboards have been sent to be slotted, and i think i have figured out how to do the neck through with no angle by raising the fingerboard, and recessing the bridge. ordering parts this or next week.
i do want to show these off though. the heads look a lot like the figured cherry i plan to use for the top of the headstock, and the top of the body center. wht do you think of these for the guitar tuners? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...3702&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab=Watching
i do want to show these off though. the heads look a lot like the figured cherry i plan to use for the top of the headstock, and the top of the body center. wht do you think of these for the guitar tuners? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...3702&_trksid=p3907.m32&_trkparms=tab=Watching
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I bought some bass tuners that had heads like that. They broke off when I went to tune the strings; I suggest you stick with metal buttons.
crap. i was really into the idea. i guess i will just get the gotoh tuners on warmoth. the heads look removeable, in case i want to try it in the future. thanx for the warning
could use a little help at this point. i am trying to figure out where i should put the strings in relation to the centerline. the octive e, and the bass G equal distance from the center? bass E and bass G equal distance from center, and just throw in the octives? offset the strings or pickups, so they are postioned over the pole pieces better? this is driving be crazy. if i can't figure it out, i will go EeAadDgG, so that the 2 outer strings are bass strings. how would this effect the playability? i mainly play with a pick, but also slap for fun occasionaly, rarely play with my fingers (the way where you use the pup as a thumb rest, and then use your pointer and middle fingers), but i do use my thumb and pointer/middle fingers to play octives and other things where it is easier, if that makes since. basically , i don't do standard pizacato, but i make use of my fingers.
also, i used a bit i got at menardes to route the truss rod, so there is a tiny amout of extra space at the sides of the rod. if i used small pieces of card board or packing p-nuts or something to fill in the sides a little, do you think it would help?
also, i used a bit i got at menardes to route the truss rod, so there is a tiny amout of extra space at the sides of the rod. if i used small pieces of card board or packing p-nuts or something to fill in the sides a little, do you think it would help?
