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singlecut chambered.

#84
Hey Jordan, good job on your bass! I have not read the whole thread, however, I would say that your design shows great originality and promise. My advice would be that you avoid extended range or multiple octaved/stringed instruments until you've mastered a playable 4 or 5 string build. Good luck!
 
#85
thanx. it is not an erb. its an octived 4 string, like a 12 string guitar. can back out now. sunk $80 into the schaller bridge. i saw your tutorial on nitro, and am now considering that. my 2 main concerns are how well it brings out/shows off wood figuring, and if it yellows out maple. do you think it will bring out the maple top flaming on page 2, post 24?
 
#86
jordan_frerichs said:
thanx. it is not an erb. its an octived 4 string, like a 12 string guitar. can back out now. sunk $80 into the schaller bridge. i saw your tutorial on nitro, and am now considering that. my 2 main concerns are how well it brings out/shows off wood figuring, and if it yellows out maple. do you think it will bring out the maple top flaming on page 2, post 24?
Click to expand...

See my answer to you on that thread.

If I were building this bass, I would go with a natural oil or wax based finish. Your bass is perfect for that!
 
#87
nevermind, just caught the response in the tutorial. you seem to have mastered finishing technique. what would you recomend for a good quality finish thats around my wants. also forgot that i don't want a finish that produces exessive fingerprints, and also something that will create a smooth felling neck. since it is a neck through, i imagine it would be hard to go with different finixshes for different areas (exept for the fingerboard, of coarse,).

as far as updates go, i have desided onb the headstock shape, so now i am making a top for the head. since the fingerboard is bloodwood with cherry binding, i decided to make the head laminates taper with the fingerboard, and have it be a reverse. when the bloodwood center of the fingerboard meets the head, that secton will be cherry, same reverse deal with the binding part. from there the rest is flamed maple to match the top. also plan to put a thin veneer of walnut, just because i have a thin cutoff piece about that size. also working on a template. after the head is drilled, i can move onto the fingerboard gluing. once i get to gluing the wings, i will take it home, and not sleep for a few days doing the fine carving and contouring, routering, all the stuff i can do without the school.
 
#88
jordan_frerichs said:
nevermind, just caught the response in the tutorial. you seem to have mastered finishing technique. what would you recomend for a good quality finish thats around my wants. also forgot that i don't want a finish that produces exessive fingerprints, and also something that will create a smooth felling neck. since it is a neck through, i imagine it would be hard to go with different finixshes for different areas (exept for the fingerboard, of coarse,).
Click to expand...

There are a lot of different answers to that question!

I have an old Quaker oil/wax finishing formula I use for natural wood finishes. It is also reusable later throughout the life of the instrument. You can use it on all the woods, fingerboard included.

I'll send it to you, but keep doing your homework to determine what you eventually end up doing.
 
#92
thank you for the compliment. most don't like them at first. i thought the same. a few started sticking out to me, and i took quite a bit of influence from them. you should checkout the build ppk is on, also do a search on nomad98. his were some that i liked most of the singlecuts.
 
#94
not much of an update here. was trying to save off some thickness at the body end of the neck, to get it the same thickness as the end off the fingerboard, and accedintally went too thin. no i have to glue more maple back on. luckily it is just at the body and last couple frets, cause since it is going to taper, why glue extra that is going to be waste? the neck is no longer square wich may create some difficulty, might i should be able to manage. tomarrow, i will glue on the extra, then get it to the right width, glue the "ears" to the headstock, glue a cherry top on it, shape and drill it, maybe bind it with bloodwood, then the fingerboard and the neck will finally be joined. don't you hate having to go and repeat steps do to avoidable f*** ups. lol
 
#95
okay, i think i came up with a way to make it an actual semi hollow. route most of the core out, exept a few supports, with i will carve out of the existing wood.
next steps are to glue a face of the headstock, shape and drill, then the fingerboard gets glued
i found the shape of the neck i want, but it is very thin. i think i should thicken it up because of the increased tension. its okay. i like the shape for the shape, not the thickness. i am modeling after an LTD if anyones wondering. how thick would be good?
 
#96
figured it is time for an update. didn't get too much accomplished, as i am putting more focus into the other build so it gets to the same point.
i decided to connect all the hollow spaces via the extra space behind the bridge. the space between is where the bridge goes.
IMG_0138.jpg

yes i know, i am not photogenic

the fingerbord binding being glued
IMG_0111.jpg

IMG_0115.jpg
 
#98
thanx. the neck is marking go insane though. i accedently made a few wrong cuts, and still am in the process of correcting that. the maple on the sides got uneven, so i had to glue more on, cut the headstock even with the blank, plan the sides, add ears to head blank, didn't glue level.:mad: now i need to add more maple to bottom end, and the truss channel need to be deepened.
 
#99
even though the shape is not sanded final, i started carving the lower horn, because it would be impossible to do so after the wing was glued to the neck. i glued a walnut veneer and a bloodwood veneer on top/back of the horn, and then trying hand carving it, but after i drove a chisel half way through my hand, and the work was to slow going, i desided to take advantage of the schools horozontal belt sander, then cleap up the uneven spots by hand. not done yet, but it looks great right now.
HPIM1835.jpg

HPIM1828.jpg
 

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