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Solder noob help

CactusBass

CactusBass

Aug 2, 2009
609
0
#1
Looking to buy a cheap soldering iron and some basic solder. Have some really simple soldering to do. What kind of iron am i looking to buy and what kind of wire do i need for this?
(if it matters im soldering a battery connector back in place, and then putting a new pot in...
Thanks for any help!!
 
#2
I'm not sure what you consideer "cheap", but I use a Weller Heavy Duty soldering iron from their Pro Series. I don't remember how much it cost, but I love it. It has an LED work light and heats up to working temperature in about 30 seconds.

I also use 60/40 Lead Bearing Rosin Core Electrical Solder. The brand that I buy is Bernzomatic, but any brand of this solder type will probably be acceptable.

Good Luck.
 
#4
CactusBass said:
Wasn't sure what they retail for on average kinda figured 20-30$ but that may be totally off base for a decent iron/gun
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I spent about USD130 on my Weller WES51. It'll be a while before I break even on cable savings. Whatevs, I like good tools.

Hakko soldering irons, are cheaper, and rumored to be just as good.

Sorry, I don't know, what the reasonably priced, non-pro option is.

Get a nice powerful iron. Weak irons melt components.

Solder: some thin rosin core. I'm not picky: Radio Shack, or whatever is handy.
 
#6
I have to agree. While in the long run a nice Weller would make for a better experience overall, if you're only planning on doing the occasional repair, a Radio Shack will do just fine, as long as you use good technique. Get the one that comes as a station, with iron holder and sponge holder, and switches from 20 to 40 watts. I use mine quite a bit, and no problems. I do have a Weller pencil for PCB work. Yes, it is a bit nicer, and the tip is easier to keep clean, but the RS is fine for the larger stuff.
 
#7
RedLeg said:
wow. go to radioshack and spend $20-$30 bucks on an iron and some 67/37 solder and call it a day. keep it amateur if thats all you intend to do with it.
Click to expand...

Use caution. I had a Radio Shack iron, and it was a total POS. Slow to warm up, never quite hot enough. (yes I cleaned and tinned the tip.) In RS's defense my iron was probably their cheapest, or nearly so.

Just as bad was my Weller gun. Like the D650 model.
 
#10
Samsound said:
I have to agree. While in the long run a nice Weller would make for a better experience overall, if you're only planning on doing the occasional repair, a Radio Shack will do just fine, as long as you use good technique. Get the one that comes as a station, with iron holder and sponge holder, and switches from 20 to 40 watts. I use mine quite a bit, and no problems. I do have a Weller pencil for PCB work. Yes, it is a bit nicer, and the tip is easier to keep clean, but the RS is fine for the larger stuff.
Click to expand...

The Radio Shack adjustable station was my first iron. Lasted about a week before the tip pitted and deteriorated to the point where it was useless. Not sure if I did something wrong because I followed same procedure I do now with my Weller 40 watt, and I've never had a problem with that one. My main objection to the RS 20-40w irons is the fact that you have to special order replacement tips through RS only. The Weller 40 watt has several different tip options you can get at Ace or Home Depot, or online if needed.

I may have just gotten a lemon, though; if it works for you, all is good.
 
#12
CactusBass said:
Rather I aim to put a drop of solder on the connection to secure the two parts. No more complicated than that correct?
Click to expand...

Incorrect. The purpose of the solder is not to mechanically secure the join. Putting a drop of molten solder leads to what's called a cold joint. There won't be a complete electrical bonding of the two parts. Eventually, or immediately,the joint will go bad causing noise, crackling,intermittent or no sound. There are some good articles and videos on the web - just have to Google.
 
#18
CactusBass said:
Do you guys recommend a gun type thing or a screwdriver looking one (technical names)
Click to expand...

Gun or pencil?

Pencil.

Do not use a soldering gun near pickups. The coil in the gun can demagnetize the pickups. That said, there will be those who will chime in to say that they've used a gun for X number of years and never had a problem.

For the novice, a pencil iron is safer.

Some things to think about:

Buy good tools. You will have them for the rest of your life. If you buy cheap tools, they will eventually break (maybe soon) and you will have to purchase more tools sooner.

Practice on scrap. It doesn't matter how good your hand skills are. (If you have good hand skills, you've probably already figured this out.) The mistakes you make on scrap cost little or nothing. The mistake you make on a decent workpiece may haunt you for years.

Scrap is easy to find. Guitar electronic scrap is usually sitting in a drawer at the local music store. Ask them nicely. Failing that, take a trip to the local recycling center.

Practice the task at least ten times. Twenty is better. Use a professional model to check your work. With guitar electronics, open up the guitar.

If you find out you are incapable of performing the task, take it to a pro. You might even be able to swap the new tool - given that it is a professional one - for the repair.
 
#19
I have a Weller Soldering gun that I've used for 40 years !!
TRUE DAT!

I dropped it on my cement basement floor and the Bakelite
(Yes actual Bakelite) shattered. I was going to buy another just like it on Ebay (they still make the same model and you can even get a used one pretty cheap on Ebay) but I decided to get out the 5min Epoxy and my jigsaw puzzle skills, and glued all the pieces back into a Frankenstein-looking soldering gun with epoxy scars and ooze all over the place.

Voila! It still works great -

So guess which soldering iron I recommend - - -!
 
#20
The Weller soldering guns are very durable and will last for decades. For electronics, they are also a bit like killing a fly with an elephant gun. They are very hot - and will melt electronic components if used incorrectly.

I use the Weller on automotive work, as the wiring tends to be more robust and I'm not millimeters away from components that can melt if I accidentally touch them.

You may not think about it now, but the soldering iron you buy is likely to be in your tool box for 30+ years. Get a decent one. At the very least, go to Radio Shack and get a recommendation on a pencil iron and rosin-core solder that will work for electronics.

I'd say the minimum is this RS 40-W iron:

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This 20-50W iron would give you a bit more heat:

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