- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,736
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
The Hipshot bridge is solid. Works great and looks great. 
Looking forward to more!
Looking forward to more!
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Special Edition Build-off - 4003w new build
- Thread starter 41hzthunder
- Start date
Well, didn't get as far as I would have liked. I did get the fretboard radius, frets in with ends cleaned up for the binding and the neck blank tapered.
I used a radius block and a lot of elbow grease. It came out very good.
I used a radius block and a lot of elbow grease. It came out very good.
While routing for binding, I had some chip-out, but was lucky to find the piece and glue it back in. Sometimes its just whether you can fix your mistakes! And a little luck.
The neck on a rick is stepped, so I got that done.
Just taking time on this build.
The neck on a rick is stepped, so I got that done.
Just taking time on this build.
Looking great! Sanding the radius into a board is a workout, ain't it? If I ever do another Ric build, I'll probably use a Hipshot. It's a better bridge in most respects, and you can palm mute right over it. Also no complex and very dimensionally tight recesses to cut. The stock Ric bridge only covers the mute route by about 1/16" in several places.
Yeah, I know about that recess from my prior build. I decided to go with the Hipshot and ordered it. I noticed my genuine Ric bridge is just starting to get tail lift, so enough of that.
A little further today. I'm new to binding, so taking that slow. Used a heat gun to ease the binding on the horns. Worked really well. Tomorrow I'll try the acetone and getting them on. Also roughed the neck shape. Its about 10/100's big, so room for sanding and corrections.
A barrel jack takes a smaller hole.
Awesome! Just found those online. Looking for a switched one, so I can wire the Ric-O-Sound circuit. Not a must have, but would like to. Thanks for the input. (No pun intended)
Does anyone have any measurements from fretboard to the back of the neck. I've heard the range is 105 hundredths of an inch (really thick) down to about 90 hundredths. I've rough sanded to 97 hundredths and thought I'd get opinions on this. It feels like it could go thinner, but thought I'd see what folks say.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,019
- 1
- 31,736
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
I shoot for 0.9” under the first fret, tapering up to 1.0” around the 15th fret.
But it’s personal preference really, as long as you don’t blow through to the truss rod.
But it’s personal preference really, as long as you don’t blow through to the truss rod.
Got the binding attached and the fretboard glued on. I haven't finished cleaning up the binding, but it went on easily and will need very minimal fill on just a couple spots.
I may have an issue with the neck developing a back bow. Surprising, as the grain is vertical and straight. Whats weird is that the more I sand the back of the neck, the worse the back bow seems to get. Will look at it in the morning and see what its doing. The truss rod only works one way, so it if it's too bad and can't be corrected with heat and clamping, I'll have to scrap the neck. The wings aren't glued on yet and I have a second fretboard. Guess I thought something like this could happen.
I may have an issue with the neck developing a back bow. Surprising, as the grain is vertical and straight. Whats weird is that the more I sand the back of the neck, the worse the back bow seems to get. Will look at it in the morning and see what its doing. The truss rod only works one way, so it if it's too bad and can't be corrected with heat and clamping, I'll have to scrap the neck. The wings aren't glued on yet and I have a second fretboard. Guess I thought something like this could happen.
Aint over till it's over. My first Ric build developed a slight backbow, but never know what it will do till you string it up. Mine flattened right out under string tension. Maybe clamp it all together (no glue) put the bridge and tuners on, string it up. Let it sit a couple days and see if it's playable. Next time use a DA rod, not sure why anyone uses single anymore..
Thanks! First time, so I worked pretty slow. I was in the shop and sanding on the neck. It seems to be better today and I think the string tension will straighten it. I don't know what it was. Moisture from the glue maybe? But, the neck definitely looks better today.
What type of finish did you use? I've tried nitro cellulose laquer, but it seems to fragile and lacks solvent resistance. I've been thinking of a urethane base finish. I've got some UV cure filler I'm going to play with today. You put it on and expose it to sunlight for 5 minutes and its cured! I found it last year and played with it filling grain on another project. Solerez is the name.
I’ve used SolarEZ “I can’t believe it’s not lacquer” as a filler. Works pretty well for that and Varathane goes over it no problems. Just from trying it and sanding it as a filler I’m not convinced it’s an ideal top coat but I’m happy to be proven wrong on that.
Chris at Highline guitars on the YouTubes has some videos about it but I don’t remember if he tries to polish it or not. Might just be a filler coat there too.
Chris at Highline guitars on the YouTubes has some videos about it but I don’t remember if he tries to polish it or not. Might just be a filler coat there too.
I watched a couple of his videos. He talked about using it as a filler. My concern is whether the urethane will stick to it. I don't like the idea of refinishing a failed finish. Helmsman spar urethane is pretty easy to apply and seems durable. Handles spilled drinks and sun well. I've gotten flat finishes with it that buffed up nicely.
Thanks for the info.
