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Special Edition Build Off - 5 string Modern Walnut/Ash build

turindev

Commercial User
Jul 1, 2005
514
1,594
Chattanooga, Tennessee USA
www.m7bassworks.com
Disclosures
Builder, m7bassworks.com
Excited to be joining my first build-off. This is such an awesome community of builders, its fun just to be doing this "together" as we are all stuck at home for the time being.

On to the build:
Having completed a few vintage and single-cut modern builds, I’m finally getting to a modern double cut. This design has been bumping around in my head for almost a year now, so it’s exciting to be working on it finally.

For reference, here are the previous builds:
Vintage Builds: Builds #4 & 5 Vintage 5 Bass Revisited
Modern Single Cut Builds: Build #2 & #3 - A modern single cut with a twist


The goal for this design is to have similar aesthetics to the single cut design in terms of the heel contouring and body contour, but with a more modern forearm contour. The single cut had a traditional jazz bass style forearm cutaway, but I went with a different design on this one. The bottom horn is unchanged.

For reference, here is the single cut sister design next to the new modern design.
17958784-23AA-4C6D-AF8B-D7569DEDCC9D.jpeg

D6119603-EC6B-43BE-868B-BAC404061429.jpeg


Here are the specs for the new design:
- 35" Scale bolt-on 5-string
- Chambered body with Black Walnut/Swamp Ash/Black Walnut body
- Wenge Neck
- Birdseye Maple FB
- Aguilar DC Pickups
- Hipshot Ultralite tuners
- Hipshot B Bridge (Brass)
- Passive (because passive is my jam)


Here is a look at the body concept
009EB619-E583-49E6-8434-CB3B7A02C3E8.png

F1CB1E67-2003-4EC9-987D-4EADB8C88601.png



EE9EBF2B-A558-49DA-8A1A-FB9A86B52E48.gif


I also am planning on chambering this bass to get the final weight in the 8-9 lb range. I’m not sure if I am sticking with this design, but this is my original draft at chambering:
149CF78A-8A9B-4CB4-9BFC-86EAE7CC67F0.gif
 
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More on the materials:
The fretboard will be Birdseye maple which will contrast nicely with the walnut. I’m considering a Wenge neck which will be a very distinctive look with the Birdseye, but I’m not 100% yet. If not Wenge it will be a lam maple neck.

Here is a look at the Swamp Ash and Walnut
E8D514D9-B4A9-452D-9A8C-47C67A803E87.jpeg


Here is a look at the Birdseye against the walnut
F06B2702-8D73-40F9-8FFC-76504428AD2F.jpeg


Just got done milling the neck out of some 6/4 stock, here is the Wenge (neck) against the Birdseye as well:
A620F4B2-16A8-48CC-8D04-3101F6EF31C3.jpeg

F4C6C5DB-01B7-4096-94E7-E76DE3FA86F9.jpeg

Here is a pic of the core glue-up:
B79AE191-2F36-4825-BDA9-852995206421.jpeg
 
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Nice I'm looking at doing a similar wood choice on a single cut but in a 7-string headless multiscale bass. I already got a nice black walnut blank I just need to source some swamp ash for the body and maple for lams for the neck. I was leaning on getting some purple heart lams too possibly as it adds to the neck stability.

Nice! I buy 8/4 Swamp Ash by the board foot from Keim Lumber in Ohio. I’m really specific with them on my minimum width, etc. Fortunately I can get maple at my local yard, but they are also online at woodslabs.com.
 
Couple of updates over the past few days!

On the neck decision, I ordered some 6/4 Wenge from Keim Lumber for the neck. Looks like a really nice piece, nice even grain.

After gluing the bottom laminate on, I took the blank to the CNC to route out the chambering. This is my first chambered design, so it’s an interesting process. The general approach will be:
1) drill symmetrical locator holes in the bottom and spoilboard
2) flip the stock using dowel pins in the locator holes to ensure alignment
3) drill chambering
4) glue top laminate on
5) CNC full body using locator pins from step 1

Bottom laminate glue-up (I have removed a section of walnut for the headstock veneer)

FF1F9939-E322-444A-9F31-2B9186C00B60.jpeg


Here is the blank after I have drilled locator holes and flipped the blank
E7CDA880-CCE4-484E-A4E8-1449B8744024.jpeg


Here is a shot of the CNC working it’s magic:
49A290C3-6009-419B-A54F-961A1BF5169A.gif


And here is the finished chambering
F456645E-3CA1-47F9-BB90-57BBEF9A5012.jpeg


Now it’s time to glue the laminate top (The corner piece missing in this one is for the control cavity cover)
0A3C285E-0E90-4545-8CF1-84EDCF78C1DC.jpeg


With the top in place, it’s back to the CNC, here is the glued up blank ready to go:
76E1A564-67CC-4A32-91BF-51DD5A72870A.jpeg


After top routing:
38850C89-5AAC-464E-B2E0-814D529A564B.jpeg

99CAD729-A017-4CA4-B03E-20FD4AC0D259.jpeg

43039995-C655-40D6-8594-7859267170ED.jpeg


On to the back:
448F482D-8856-4FC0-9F06-18AEB25493AA.jpeg


It’s rough, but looks great! It’s so cool to hold something that I’ve been staring at in the virtual 3D world for the last week or two. I spent a LOT of time modeling this one, so I’m glad to finally have it in hand.

The contours are rough and are ready for sanding. Here is the body after some sanding:
9B0529DF-7C2C-487B-96F6-19578E0A50C8.jpeg

CF859834-77DF-48DB-8632-3CECE5FCF335.jpeg


Here is a quick hit with some mineral spirits to see what it looks like:
CE9278A6-DDEF-4205-8679-A5130086CD76.gif


Next up is more sanding, hole drilling and chamfering the edges.
 
Excited to be joining my first build-off. This is such an awesome community of builders, its fun just to be doing this "together" as we are all stuck at home for the time being.

On to the build:
Having completed a few vintage and single-cut modern builds, I’m finally getting to a modern double cut. This design has been bumping around in my head for almost a year now, so it’s exciting to be working on it finally.

For reference, here are the previous builds:
Vintage Builds: Builds #4 & 5 Vintage 5 Bass Revisited
Modern Single Cut Builds: Build #2 & #3 - A modern single cut with a twist


The goal for this design is to have similar aesthetics to the single cut design in terms of the heel contouring and body contour, but with a more modern forearm contour. The single cut had a traditional jazz bass style forearm cutaway, but I went with a different design on this one. The bottom horn is unchanged.

For reference, here is the single cut sister design next to the new modern design.
View attachment 3762166
View attachment 3762168

Here are the specs for the new design:
- 35" Scale bolt-on 5-string
- Chambered body with Black Walnut/Swamp Ash/Black Walnut body
- Wenge Neck
- Birdseye Maple FB
- Aguilar DC Pickups
- Hipshot Ultralite tuners
- Hipshot B Bridge (Brass)
- Passive (because passive is my jam)


Here is a look at the body concept
View attachment 3762172
View attachment 3762174


View attachment 3762186

I also am planning on chambering this bass to get the final weight in the 8-9 lb range. I’m not sure if I am sticking with this design, but this is my original draft at chambering:
View attachment 3762190
Fancy, you win already just on production value! :D
 
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It looks like maple is 45 lb/ft (cubed) vs 54 for Wenge. So roughly 20%. I’m a bit torn on this one. Since the body is chambered I’m a little worried about neck dive so I have a decision to make here. If anyone has thoughts or experience with this combo let me know :)

Seems like no one has answered this post yet. As you point out, wenge is 20-25% heavier than hard maple. That, combined with a upper horn that looks like it makes it to maybe the 13th fret might make it tend to dive.

Ultralight tuners will help, but might not be enough. The B bridge, even in brass, is only about half a pound. Adding a heavier bridge would help offset the neck weight somewhat. For example, an A bridge is about 20% heavier, and a transtone about 40% heavier.

I have heard of some people assembling the neck/body then attaching weights to the headstock and body to simulate various tuner/bridge configurations to see how the bass feels.
 
Seems like no one has answered this post yet. As you point out, wenge is 20-25% heavier than hard maple. That, combined with a upper horn that looks like it makes it to maybe the 13th fret might make it tend to dive.

Ultralight tuners will help, but might not be enough. The B bridge, even in brass, is only about half a pound. Adding a heavier bridge would help offset the neck weight somewhat. For example, an A bridge is about 20% heavier, and a transtone about 40% heavier.

I have heard of some people assembling the neck/body then attaching weights to the headstock and body to simulate various tuner/bridge configurations to see how the bass feels.

Hey thanks for your answers here! Soooo now that I have this body in-hand... yeah, its gonna be crazy light. I feel like the swamp ash I got was lighter than normal too so chambering this one became a perfect storm. Once I get this whole thing together if I feel the neck diving I am going to add some weight to the body, I am investigating a few options. I could easily add a bit in the cavity since there is a ton of room in there.
 
Do I see a bottle of Titebond III in the background there? I've stopped using it on instruments or other "fine" objects that don't need the waterproofing aspect. I've had two projects where the glue lines creeped ever so slightly (they were still structurally sound, but it was enough that you can feel the seams through the finish). This seems to be a common experience with TB III because it dries "soft" and somewhat flexible. I've since switched to the LMI yellow glue and it definitely dries "harder" and doesn't creep at all. Just a thought. You do great work and I'm looking forward to seeing this.
 
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Hey thanks for your answers here! Soooo now that I have this body in-hand... yeah, its gonna be crazy light. I feel like the swamp ash I got was lighter than normal too so chambering this one became a perfect storm. Once I get this whole thing together if I feel the neck diving I am going to add some weight to the body, I am investigating a few options. I could easily add a bit in the cavity since there is a ton of room in there.

What about walnut for the neck, instead of wenge? Density is even less than maple and you'll get the light/dark contrast. Plus, it'll match the top!
 
Do I see a bottle of Titebond III in the background there? I've stopped using it on instruments or other "fine" objects that don't need the waterproofing aspect. I've had two projects where the glue lines creeped ever so slightly (they were still structurally sound, but it was enough that you can feel the seams through the finish). This seems to be a common experience with TB III because it dries "soft" and somewhat flexible. I've since switched to the LMI yellow glue and it definitely dries "harder" and doesn't creep at all. Just a thought. You do great work and I'm looking forward to seeing this.

Ahhh thats good to know. I will definitely keep an eye on this one. I normally use TBI but on a tip from a woodworker/luthier friend of mine, I started using TBIII on some oilier woods so I used it on the wenge and the walnut (also for the darker glue line). I have read conflicting stories on the oily nature of wenge.
 

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