Today I got some more work done on the neck. Ordinarily, I cut fret slots before I put a radius on the board. Because I use router bits for the radius, I was concerned that the birdseye maple may chip if were slotted first, so I changed up my normal order of operations.
I mounted the fretboard to the plywood fixture that I use when routing the radius. I always take many passes with very shallow cuts. The board is centered on the fixture, so I rout one side, flip, then rout the other side.
Here I'm sighting from the end to set up the overall height of the bit. I am leaving it just shy of the centerline. I'll remove the bearing later and let the fence limit the cut.
To help stabilize the board during the slotting operation, I wanted to leave the ends of the board square. To accomplish this, I have start and stop marks at each end of the board and on the fence. Yeah, lots of marks there, glad I didn't get them mixed up.
Here is the progress after a few passes.
And done. The centerline is still there and the cut comes nearly to it on each side. I'll just sand the ridge flush and blend it with a sanding beam later.
Closeup of the little ridge. Probably 1/64" tall.
I mounted the board to the slotting template. Here you can see how the end is still square. This will act as a foot along with the center ridge to help hold everything in place while slotting.
Slotted the board...
And done. Of course the fret slots will need to be chased later to bring them to full depth at the edges.
Here I'm getting the board aligned on the neck prior to glue up.
Drilled for alignment pins.
Fretboard was marked and the taper was cut at the band saw. Naturally, most of the interesting parts of the board were cut off when I tapered it.
Per my usual procedure, the board was attached with hot hide glue and put in the vacuum bag for clamping. I'll pull it out later tonight.
Wow, that was a long post. If you made it this far, thanks for looking.
